| Chapter One
In the second half of the 1960s I traveled repeatedly from England to
Belgium, partly for study purposes, partly for other reasons which
were never entirely clear to me, staying sometimes for just one or
two days, sometimes for several weeks. On one of these Belgian
excursions which, as it seemed to me, always took me further and
further abroad, I came on a glorious early summer's day to the city
of Antwerp, known to me previously only by name. Even on my arrival,
as the train rolled slowly over the viaduct with its curious pointed
turrets on both sides and into the dark station concourse, I had
begun to feel unwell, and this sense of indisposition persisted for
the whole of my visit to Belgium on that occasion. I still remember
the uncertainty of my footsteps as I walked all round the inner city,
down Jeruzalemstraat, Nachtegaalstraat, Pelikaanstraat,
Paradijsstraat, Immerseelstraat, and many other streets and
alleyways, until at last, plagued by a headache and my uneasy
thoughts, I took refuge in the zoo by the Astridplein, next to the
Centraal Station, waiting for the pain to subside. I sat there on a
bench in dappled shade, beside an aviary full of brightly feathered
finches and siskins fluttering about. As the afternoon drew to a
close I walked through the park, and finally went to see the
Nocturama, which had first been opened only a few months earlier. It
was some time before my eyes became used to its artificial dusk and I
could make out different animals leading their sombrous lives behind
the glass by the light of a pale moon. I cannot now recall exactly
what creatures I saw on that visit to the Antwerp Nocturama, but
there were probably bats and jerboas from Egypt and the Gobi Desert,
native European hedgehogs and owls, Australian opossums, pine
martens, dormice, and lemurs, leaping from branch to branch, darting
back and forth over the grayish-yellow sandy ground, or disappearing
into a bamboo thicket. The only animal which has remained lingering
in my memory is the raccoon. I watched it for a long time as it sat
beside a little stream with a serious expression on its face, washing
the same piece of apple over and over again, as if it hoped that all
this washing, which went far beyond any reasonable thoroughness,
would help it to escape the unreal world in which it had arrived, so
to speak, through no fault of its own. Otherwise, all I remember of
the denizens of the Nocturama is that several of them had strikingly
large eyes, and the fixed, inquiring gaze found in certain painters
and philosophers who seek to penetrate the darkness which surrounds
us purely by means of looking and thinking. I believe that my mind
also dwelt on the question of whether the electric light was turned
on for the creatures in the Nocturama when real night fell and the
zoo was closed to the public, so that as day dawned over their
topsy-turvy miniature universe they could fall asleep with some
degree of reassurance. Over the years, images of the interior of the
Nocturama have become confused in my mind with my memories of the
Salle des pas perdus, as it is called, in Antwerp Centraal Station.
If I try to conjure up a picture of that waiting room today I
immediately see the Nocturama, and if I think of the Nocturama the
waiting room springs to my mind, probably because when I left the zoo
that afternoon I went straight into the station, or rather first
stood in the square outside it for some time to look up at the façade
of that fantastical building, which I had taken in only vaguely when
I arrived in the morning. Now, however, I saw how far the station
constructed under the patronage of King Leopold exceeded its purely
utilitarian function, and I marveled at the verdigris-covered
Negro boy who, for a century now, has sat upon his dromedary on an oriel
turret to the left of the station façade, a monument to the world of
the animals and native peoples of the African continent, alone
against the Flemish sky. When I entered the great hall of the
Centraal Station with its dome arching sixty meters high above it, my
first thought, perhaps triggered by my visit to the zoo and the sight
of the dromedary, was that this magnificent although then severely
dilapidated foyer ought to have cages for lions and leopards let into
its marble niches, and aquaria for sharks, octopuses, and crocodiles,
just as some zoos, conversely, have little railway trains in which
you can, so to speak, travel to the farthest corners of the earth. It
was probably because of ideas like these, occurring to me almost of
their own accord there in Antwerp, that the waiting room which, I
know, has now been turned into a staff canteen struck me as another
Nocturama, a curious confusion which may of course have been the
result of the sun's sinking behind the city rooftops just as I
entered the room. The gleam of gold and silver on the huge,
half-obscured mirrors on the wall facing the windows was not yet
entirely extinguished before a subterranean twilight filled the
waiting room, where a few travelers sat far apart, silent and
motionless. Like the creatures in the Nocturama, which had included a
strikingly large number of dwarf species—tiny fennec foxes,
spring-hares, hamsters—the railway passengers seemed to me somehow
miniaturized, whether by the unusual height of the ceiling or because
of the gathering dusk, and it was this, I suppose, which prompted the
passing thought, nonsensical in itself, that they were the last
members of a diminutive race which had perished or had been expelled
from its homeland, and that because they alone survived they wore the
same sorrowful expression as the creatures in the zoo. One of the
people waiting in the Salle des pas perdus was Austerlitz, a man who
then, in 1967, appeared almost youthful, with fair, curiously wavy
hair of a kind I had seen elsewhere only on the German hero Siegfried
in Fritz Lang's Nibelungen film. That day in Antwerp, as on all our
later meetings, Austerlitz wore heavy walking boots and workman's
trousers made of faded blue calico, together with a tailor-made but
long outdated suit jacket. Apart from these externals he also
differed from the other travelers in being the only one who was not
staring apathetically into space, but instead was occupied in making
notes and sketches obviously relating to the room where we were both
sitting—a magnificent hall more suitable, to my mind, for a state
ceremony than as a place to wait for the next connection to Paris or
Oostende—for when he was not actually writing something down his
glance often dwelt on the row of windows, the fluted pilasters, and
other structural details of the waiting room. Once Austerlitz took a
camera out of his rucksack, an old Ensign with telescopic bellows,
and took several pictures of the mirrors, which were now quite dark,
but so far I have been unable to find them among the many hundreds of
pictures, most of them unsorted, that he entrusted to me soon after
we met again in the winter of 1996. When I finally went over to
Austerlitz with a question about his obvious interest in the waiting
room, he was not at all surprised by my direct approach but answered
me at once, without the slightest hesitation, as I have variously
found since that solitary travelers, who so often pass days on end in
uninterrupted silence, are glad to be spoken to. Now and then they
are even ready to open up to a stranger unreservedly on such
occasions, although that was not the case with Austerlitz in the
Salle des pas perdus, nor did he subsequently tell me very much about
his origins and his own life. Our Antwerp conversations, as he
sometimes called them later, turned primarily on architectural
history, in accordance with his own astonishing professional
expertise, and it was the subject we discussed that evening as we sat
together until nearly midnight in the restaurant facing the waiting
room on the other side of the great domed hall. The few guests still
lingering at that late hour one by one deserted the buffet, which was
constructed like a mirror image of the waiting room, until we were
left alone with a solitary man drinking Fernet and the barmaid, who
sat enthroned on a stool behind the counter, legs crossed, filing her
nails with complete devotion and concentration. Austerlitz commented
in passing of this lady, whose peroxide-blond hair was piled up into
a sort of bird's nest, that she was the goddess of time past. And on
the wall behind her, under the lion crest of the kingdom of Belgium,
there was indeed a mighty clock, the dominating feature of the
buffet, with a hand some six feet long traveling round a dial which
had once been gilded, but was now blackened by railway soot and
tobacco smoke. During the pauses in our conversation we both noticed
what an endless length of time went by before another minute had
passed, and how alarming seemed the movement of that hand, which
resembled a sword of justice, even though we were expecting it every
time it jerked forward, slicing off the next one-sixtieth of an hour
from the future and coming to a halt with such a menacing quiver that
one's heart almost stopped. Towards the end of the nineteenth
century, Austerlitz began, in reply to my questions about the history
of the building of Antwerp station, when Belgium, a little patch of
yellowish gray barely visible on the map of the world, spread its
sphere of influence to the African continent with its colonial
enterprises, when deals of huge proportions were done on the capital
markets and raw-materials exchanges of Brussels, and the citizens of
Belgium, full of boundless optimism, believed that their country,
which had been subject so long to foreign rule and was divided and
disunited in itself, was about to become a great new economic
power—at that time, now so long ago although it determines our lives
to this day, it was the personal wish of King Leopold, under whose
auspices such apparently inexorable progress was being made, that the
money suddenly and abundantly available should be used to erect
public buildings which would bring international renown to his
aspiring state. One of the projects thus initiated by the highest
authority in the land was the central station of the Flemish
metropolis, where we were sitting now, said Austerlitz; designed by
Louis Delacenserie, it was inaugurated in the summer of 1905, after
ten years of planning and building, in the presence of the King
himself. The model Leopold had recommended to his architects was the
new railway station of Lucerne, where he had been particularly struck
by the concept of the dome,* so dramatically exceeding the usual
modest height of railway buildings, a concept realized by
Delacenserie in his own design, which was inspired by the Pantheon in
Rome, in such stupendous fashion that even today, said Austerlitz,
exactly as the architect intended, when we step into the entrance
hall we are seized by a sense of being beyond the profane, in a
cathedral consecrated to international traffic and trade.
Delacenserie borrowed the main elements of his monumental structure
from the palaces of the Italian Renaissance, but he also struck
Byzantine and Moorish notes, and perhaps when I arrived, said
Austerlitz, I myself had noticed the round gray and white granite
turrets, the sole purpose of which was to arouse medieval
associations in the minds of railway passengers. However laughable in
itself, Delacenserie's eclecticism, uniting past and future in the
Centraal Station with its marble stairway in the foyer and the steel
and glass roof spanning the platforms, was in fact a logical
stylistic approach to the new epoch, said Austerlitz, and it was also
appropriate, he continued, that in Antwerp Station the elevated level
from which the gods looked down on visitors to the Roman Pantheon
should display, in hierarchical order, the deities of the nineteenth
century—mining, industry, transport, trade, and capital. For halfway
up the walls of the entrance hall, as I must have noticed, there were
stone escutcheons bearing symbolic sheaves of corn, crossed hammers,
winged wheels, and so on, with the heraldic motif of the beehive
standing not, as one might at first think, for nature made
serviceable to mankind, or even industrious labor as a social good,
but symbolizing the principle of capital accumulation. And Time, said
Austerlitz, represented by the hands and dial of the clock, reigns
supreme among these emblems. The clock is placed above the only
baroque element in the entire ensemble, the cruciform stairway which
leads from the foyer to the platforms, just where the image of the
emperor stood in the Pantheon in a line directly prolonged from the
portal; as governor of a new omnipotence it was set even above the
royal coat of arms and the motto Endracht maakt macht. The movements
of all travelers could be surveyed from the central position occupied
by the clock in Antwerp Station, and conversely all travelers had to
look up at the clock and were obliged to adjust their activities to
its demands. In fact, said Austerlitz, until the railway timetables
were synchronized the clocks of Lille and Liège did not keep the same
time as the clocks of Ghent and Antwerp, and not until they were all
standardized around the middle of the nineteenth century did time
truly reign supreme. It was only by following the course time
prescribed that we could hasten through the gigantic spaces
separating us from each other. And indeed, said Austerlitz after a
while, to this day there is something illusionistic and illusory
about the relationship of time and space as we experience it in
traveling, which is why whenever we come home from elsewhere we never
feel quite sure if we have really been abroad. From the first I was
astonished by the way Austerlitz put his ideas together as he talked,
forming perfectly balanced sentences out of whatever occurred to him,
so to speak, and the way in which, in his mind, the passing on of his
knowledge seemed to become a gradual approach to a kind of historical
metaphysic, bringing remembered events back to life. I shall never
forget how he concluded his comments on the manufacture of the tall
waiting-room mirrors by wondering, glancing up once more at their
dimly shimmering surfaces as he left, combien des ouvriers périrent,
lors de la manufacture de tels miroirs, de malignes et funestes
affectations à la suite de l'inhalation de vapeurs de mercure et de
cyanide. And just as Austerlitz had broken off with these words that
first evening, so he continued his observations the following day,
for which we had arranged a meeting on the promenade beside the
Schelde.
Excerpted from Austerlitz
by W. G. Sebald.
Copyright © 2001 by W. G. Sebald.
Excerpted by permission. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be
reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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