Smell Yourself Skinny; Survivorman; Goodbye, Mr. Apple
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Brothers Matt and Ted Lee celebrate Southern food as America's food. "Survivorman" Les Stroud gives us a peek into the meager cuisine of the bush. Dr. Alan Hirsch urges us to put our nose where our mouth is, and Dale Campbell sheds some light on cooking in the dark. Dan Warrick offers a primmer on how to make wine at home and Jon Gold takes us on an Argentine food tour through Mercado Buenos Aires. We remember the late, great R. W. Apple and re-run a segment that we enjoyed with him last year.
Market Report - Mandarins ()
Laura Avery speaks to Paul of McGrath Family Farm about their French haricot vert, which are like tiny green beans. McGrath is also carrying beautiful “tongue of fire” cranberry beans, a great variety of beets, and baby corn which is entirely edible- husks, cobs, and all.
Laura also finds Troy Regier, of Regier Farms, at his table getting back into the swing of things with the first showing of his seedless Satsuma Mandarins.
Survivorman - Les Stroud ()
Les Stroud is Survivorman a show airing on The Science Channel in the U.S., and “The Outdoor Life Network” in Canada. Each episode finds Survivorman Les Stroud abandoned in a remote location. He carries little more than the clothes on his back – and his cameras. Les not only needs to survive for a week without supplies, but he has to film everything himself, lugging over fifty pounds of camera gear the entire time. The Costa Rican rainforest, Arctic ice floes, Georgian swamp and the high Sonora desert include a few of 9 locales where Les has overcome seemingly impossible obstacles. Les tells what he eats during these adventures.
Can a Blind Man Cook? ()
Do you ever feel like you're stumbling around in your kitchen? Do recipes ever make you feel like you're in the dark? Well, Dale Campbell is the vision impaired host of ACB Radio's Cooking in the Dark show which airs monthly on Phil Parr's Blind like Me, and he tells Evan what it's really like to be in the dark. For merchandise and information for vision impaired cooks, click here.
RW "Johnny" Apple - In Memoriam ()
The late, great R. W. "Johnny" Apple, Associate Editor of the New York Times, died this past month. Evan had the honor of interviewing Mr. Apple in April, 2005. He spoke about his book Apple's America : The Discriminating Traveler's Guide to 40 Great Cities in the United States and Canada.
Click here for the NY Times obit.
Smell Yourself Skinny ()
Argentine Meat Fest ()
Jonathan Gold of LA Weekly visits Café de la Ciudad in Mercado Buenos Aires, 7542 Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys, (818) 786-0522. Open Mon.–Sat. 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. BYOB. Takeout. Difficult lot parking. AE, MC, V. Lunch or supper for two, food only, $10–$25.
Recommended dishes: choripan, melted provolone, empanadas, parrillada.
Boiled Peanuts with the Lee Brothers ()
The Lee Brothers famous Boiled Peanut Recipe
(or just buy them here)
1 1/2 cups salt, plus more to taste
4 gallons water, plus more as needed
2 pounds raw peanuts in the shell
1. In a 3 gallon stockpot, dissolve 1/2 cup of the salt in 2 gallons of water and add the peanuts (the peanuts will float, but you can keep most of them submerged by using a dinner plate as a cap). Allow the peanuts to soak for 8 hours or overnight.
2. Discard the soaking water and fill the pot with 2 gallons of fresh water and the remaining 1 cup salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook at a low boil, covered, for 5 to 8 hours. Keep the water in the pot at roughly the same level with hourly additions of 2 cups water until the peanuts are soft.
3. When the peanuts have boiled for 3 hours, sample them to check for texture and saltiness. Allow a peanut to cool, then crack open the shell to get at the kernels inside. If you find them too salty, remove some brine with a ladle or small pot and replace it with an equal amount of fresh water. If the peanuts are not salty enough, add salt in 1/4 cup increments, turn off the heat, and let them soak for an hour to absorb the salt. If the peanuts are too crunchy for your taste, boil on. It can take as long as 12 hours if you prefer them mushroom-soft. Sample them every hour.
4. When the peanuts are cooked to your satisfaction, turn off the heat and cool for 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, drain and eat immediately or store (in the shell) in a sealed container in the refrigerator or freezer. Boiled peanuts will keep for 7 days in the refrigerator, several months in the freezer.
Makes 4 pounds
Fish Stew Man’s Red Fish Stew
For 6 people
Time 1 1/2 hours
1/4 slab bacon, cut into small dice, or 4 strips thick-cut bacon, cut into small dice
2 serrano, Thai, or other dried red chiles, stems trimmed, slit down their sides, seeded and flattened
1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold or other waxy potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/4 inch thick half-moons
2 cups chopped yellow onion (about 2 large onions)
1 1/2 cups Rich Fish Broth (see below)
1 cup full-bodied white wine, such as Chardonnay, Riesling, or Viognier
3 bay leaves
One 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, with their juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
2 teaspoons mustard seeds, pounded with a mortar and pestle to a fine powder
2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds, toasted and pounded with a mortar and pestle to a fine powder
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons ketchup
1 1/2 pounds flaky white fish such as spottail bass, sheepshead, wreckfish, hake, catfish, cod, or whiting, cut into 1 1/2 inch chunks
1/2 cup half and half
1 cup fresh corn kernels, cut from the cob (about 2 ears)
1. Scatter the diced bacon in a 6 quart stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. With a slotted spoon, move the pieces around until the bacon is firm and just golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a small bowl with the slotted spoon. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat. Add the chiles and gently toast until they discolor and release some of their fragrance, about 30 seconds per side. Remove with the spoon and reserve in the bowl with the bacon.
2. Add the potatoes and sauté in the bacon fat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep them from sticking. Add the onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until fragrant and beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the broth, wine, and bay leaves and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer vigorously until the liquid is reduced by one quarter, about 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes one by one, lightly crushing each as you add it, followed by the tomato juice. When the stew returns to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer vigorously for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are not quite tender.
3. Add the salt, pepper, mustard, coriander, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and ketchup and simmer for 10 minutes more, covered, until the potatoes are completely tender when pierced with a fork.
4. Add the fish to the pot. Return to a simmer and continue to simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to break the fish into flakes. Add the half and half and the corn and simmer very gently for 5 minutes more, until the corn has softened slightly but still has some bite. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce.
5. Serve over hot white rice or with wedges of corn bread, garnished with the reserved bacon.
Rich Fish Broth
Makes 3-4 cups
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup finely diced yellow onion (about 1 medium onion)
1/2 cup finely diced celery (about 1 large stalk)
3 large bay leaves
1 1/2 pounds fish bones and trimmings or whole small, non-oily fish, such as snapper, bass, or whiting
1/2 cup crisp dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc
6 cups cold water
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1. Melt the butter in a medium stockpot over medium-high heat until frothy. Add the onion, celery, and bay leaves and sauté until the vegetables have softened and the onions are completely translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the fish bones and trimmings and the wine and bring to a simmer. Simmer vigorously until the wine is reduced by one half, about 6 minutes more.
2. Add the water and bring to a vigorous simmer over high heat. Turn the heat to low and simmer gently for 45 minutes.
3. Strain the broth into a bowl through a fine-mesh strainer. Discard the solids. Measure the amount of broth you’re left with. Taste the broth; if you don’t plan to reduce it further, season it gently with salt and pepper (start with 1/8 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper per 1 cup broth).
4. Pour the broth into a container with a tight fitting lid. If you plan to use it within 2 days, seal it and store it in the refrigerator. If you don’t plan to use it within 2 days, place it in the freezer where the broth will keep for 1 month or more.
Make Wine at Home ()
Sheridan Warrick is a vintner and science editor with 25 years of experience making wine. He has written a book called, The Way to Make Wine. He explains that everyone can make wine at home and now he has published a guide that tells you how.
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