Best of Good Food
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Clifford Wright dishes up great ideas for leftover turkey and Ted Haigh explains why he's sweet on bitters. While Justin Spring offers big thoughts on his mini kitchen, Julia Collin Davison discusses which pots and pans we need most. Plus, Patrick Martins urges us to eat the red wattle in order to save them, Josh Karpf cooks a whole pig's head and Jet Tila does a wok on.
Market Report - Pink Ladies ()
Laura Avery speaks to Everett Davall of Dates by Davall about his wonderful sweet medjool dates and his honey dates. You can look around his table for the rare Abadaba dates too, but those seem to sell out faster that he can unload them.
Everett's brown turkey figs are also a treat. Try halving them and putting them cut side up under the broiler with a little sugar on top. Served over ice cream, they're heavenly. Get them while you can, the season won't last long.
Laura also gets some apple pointers from David Rydell of Fairhill Farms. David and his wife Nancy grow several varieties of apples, including Granny Smith and Pink Ladys. He says that the Pink Ladys are wonderful in pies and are great in salads because they don't have a tendency to brown like other varieties.
Raid the Fridge- Leftover Ideas ()
Clifford Wright is the acclaimed author of several books including Some Like it Hot: Spicy Flavors from the World’s Hot Zones. He tells us what we can do with those holiday leftovers and offers some recipes for us to try.
Turkey in Yogurt, Mint, and Garlic Sauce
3 large garlic cloves
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups loosely-packed fresh mint leaves
1/4 cup clarified butter (preferably) or unsalted butter
1 small onion, chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon paprika
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/4 pounds leftover turkey breast and thigh, cubed or sliced
1 quart thick plain yogurt
4 small loaves pita bread
1. In a mortar, pound the garlic, salt, and mint until mashed well, like a pesto, or use a food processor for this purpose.
2. In a skillet, heat or melt the clarified butter over medium-high heat, then cook the onion, parsley, coriander, cumin, paprika, salt and pepper and the garlic mixture until soft, stirring, about 4 minutes. Add the turkey until it is heated in a couple of minutes, then stir in the yogurt and check the salt. Heat over a low heat, but make sure it never comes to a boil otherwise the yogurt will separate. Serve hot with warm pita bread.
Makes 4 servings
Southwest Turkey Bake
This is just a very quick way to assemble a lunch for one or two people with leftover Thanksgiving turkey.
Extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 pound cooked turkey breast, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 ripe tomato, chopped
3 tablespoons chopped onions
3 tablespoons chopped green bell peppers or mild chiles
Pinch of ground cumin
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 slices Longhorn cheese
1/4 cup red wine
1. Preheat the oven to 425ºF.
2. Grease a small casserole or two individual ramekins with a film of olive oil. In a bowl, toss the turkey, tomatoes, onions, green pepper, cumin, cayenne, salt and black pepper together.
3. Transfer to the casserole, cover with cheese and sprinkle with red wine and bake until bubbling, about 20 minutes. Serve hot.
Makes 2 servings
Place carcass in a large stock pot and cover with cold water. Add 1 carrot, 1 medium onion, 1 celery stalk, a bay leaf, some parsley, and thyme and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 6 hours. Strain the broth. Bring the strained broth to a boil and cook broken spaghetti in it, store-bought tortellini, or reheat leftover potatoes, sweet potatoes, or yams from Thanksgiving dinner.
There are several tricks to making a good sandwich. First you must use lettuce leaves to protect the bread from getting soggy. The bread should be of the highest quality and the crust should not be so hard that when you bite in the contents squeeze out. You should always use a little onion which is in a sense the “secret” ingredient to any good sandwich. In this sandwich, slice the leftover turkey quite thin. Lay the lettuce leaves down on both sides of the bread and smear some mascarpone cheese on both if like otherwise just use mayonnaise. Flavor the mayonnaise with a few drops of your favorite hot sauce, such as Tabasco sauce, stirring it until well blended then spread a little flavored mayonnaise on top of the lettuce and lay the turkey, onion (just a little), Swiss cheese, and more turkey then fold together and serve.
Thanksgiving Leftover Soup
Remove the meat from the turkey and cube. Place all the leftover ingredients you want from the Thanksgiving dinner and puree in a food processor. Stir in some turkey broth, heavy cream, and adjust the taste. If your Thanksgiving meal had lots of sweet dishes, adjust the taste by adding hot sauce or red chile. If it’s bland, salt and pepper. Transfer to a saucepan and heat slowly, then add the turkey pieces until heated through. Serve in individual bowls with a drizzle of olive oil.
All recipes © Clifford A. Wright.
Teeny Tiny Kitchens ()
Justin Spring says that he went through a “Kitchen Clutter Intervention” which began with his admission that he was “powerless over kitchen clutter and that his life in the kitchen had become unmanageable as a result”. His book is The Itty Bitty Kitchen Handbook: Everything You Need To Know About Setting Up and Cooking in the Most Ridiculously Small Kitchen in the World- Your Own. The book features 100 recipes and countless tips on how to deal with small spaces.
You can visit his website and read a Q & A session with the author about his experiences living with his tiny kitchen.
Justin has provided the following recipe:
Mom's Sunday Pot Roast
Here is an ultra-simple pot roast (made with a miraculously inexpensive cut of beef) that is incredibly delicious ‚ dark, rich, and fork-tender. Its slow cooking makes your entire home smell beefy and good, even if you cook it (as I do) in a toaster oven. By using a boneless chuck steak rather than chuck roast, you don’t even need to carve or slice anything ‚ it’s ready to go to the plate just as it is.
Mom’s final note on to me on this recipe is: Make gravy or not depending on your mood and degree of hunger, I’m not a gravy-making guy (and neither is Mom-who is she kidding?), so while I might use sour cream (or applesauce) mixed with prepared horseradish as an accompaniment, I find this pot roast is really delicious all by itself, garnished with just a little finely chopped fresh parsley.
1 1/2 to 2 pounds boneless chuck steak, approximately 1 1/2 inches thick, with some fat on it
freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup low-sodium beef broth (optional)
2 shallots or 1 medium large onion, peeled but left whole
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
3 medium carrots, scraped and cut into chunks
Preheat your (toaster) oven to 375 degrees F.
Line a 9 x 9-inch pan with tinfoil for easiest cleanup. Season the meat well with salt and pepper and put it in the pan with the shallots or onion. Add 1/3 cup of water or the broth if using. Put the pan in the oven uncovered and roast for 30 minutes.
Turn the meat over, cover the pan with foil, and bake for 30 to 45 minutes more at a reduced heat of 350 degrees F. Add the potatoes and carrots to the pan, turning and basting them with the juices as you do so and sprinkling them with some salt and pepper. Then cover it again with the aluminum foil and bake until the vegetables are done ‚ about 30 minutes more.
Pots and Pans Buying Guide ()
Julia Collin Davison of Cook's Illustrated recommends pots and pans. She says the two pieces you want to invest in are an All Clad 12- stainless steel skillet and a Le Creuset 7 1/4 qt Dutch oven with a slightly domed lid. The Farberware Millennium non-stick pans are a good buy and the handles stay cool.
Wok Cooking 101 ()
Jet Tila gives us the six commandments of wok cooking. Jet recommends using a flat-bottomed carbon-steel wok. To season the wok heat it well, add kosher salt, rub the interior with the salt until the salt turns a bit brown, clean with soapy water, and dry completely. Jet also says that you should stay country specific, if you’re making Chinese food, use Chinese soy sauce.
Six Commandments of Wok Cooking
1. Knife Cuts. Make them consistent. “If you can pick it up with a chopstick, it’s the right size.”
2. Mise en place. “Be completely prepped out.” Have all your components completely set up. You don’t want to be scrambling at the last minute.
3. Heat the wok to 400 degrees, after you add the oil in and you see white smoke, it’s time to cook.
4. Sauce. Double the amount you need and use half to start and add more as you need it.
5. Clean the wok immediately afterward.
6. Use salt to scour the wok, as needed.
For information on his cooking classes or about his Thai specialty market, Bangkok Market, click here.
Save Me by Eating Me ()
Patrick Martins, whose Heritage Foods USA is doing its best to bring old breeds of pigs, cows, lambs and poultry back from near extinction, alerts us to the precarious plight of Red Wattle pigs. Only about 300 Red Wattles exist in the world, and Patrick says that if we want to save them we should eat them. (You can order them on the Heritage website.) The pork is succulent, has nice marbling, and the color of the meat is red. Patrick, who's working on a new documentary which records the farm-to-table life of a pig, recounts some of the positive, inspiring stories that are emerging around the country.
Pork Ribs with Olives and Rosemary
4 lbs pork ribs, cut into individual ribs
Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
4 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
4 Tablespoons roughly chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 cup white wine
1 (15-oz) can Italian tomatoes, drained and cut in pieces
1/2 cup Italian black olives
Preheat the oven to 400--. Rub the ribs with salt and pepper. Place them in a roasting pan and roast in the oven for 10 minutes. Drain any liquid the ribs give off.
Add the olive oil, garlic, rosemary, and stir to coat the ribs. Return the pan to the oven until the garlic starts to soften, about 8 minutes, then add the white wine. When the wine reduces completely, after approximately 15 minutes, turn the rubs and add the tomatoes, distributing them evenly. Taste and adjust the seasoning for salt and pepper. Roast the ribs for another 25 minutes. Just before they are ready, add the olives. Serve immediately.
Cooking a Pig's Head ()
Josh Karpf is an editor at Random House, and a former editor of the former science Webzine HMS Beagle, but he moonlights as a food obsessed scientist. He decided to cook an entire pig’s head and tell us all about it. Josh Karpf can be found online. He's got some musings on pork martinis and other things there.
Bitters with Dr. Cocktail ()
Ted Haigh, a.k.a Dr. Cocktail, tells us what we do with the cocktail ingredient: bitters. His book is Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails. He also writes a regular online column for Martini Republic.
He runs the Internet Cocktail Database a comprehensive encyclopedia of cocktails, barware, and more.
Click here for a recent article in the NY Times about Ted. He created Mixilator: The David Embury Random Cocktail Generator. This automaton creates brand new cocktail recipes using the complex mixing theories of author David Embury and the ingredient database of the Internet Cocktail Database.
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