American Cheese; ‘Gold’ Restaurants; Heritage Breeds
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On this pledge drive edition of Good Food, Andrew Steiner reveals the real American cheese, Jonathan Gold lays out his Top 10 restaurants of the last year and Suvir Saran confesses his love for heritage varieties of the goats, sheep and chickens he raises on his farm. Plus, a large emu egg astounds farmers market reporter Laura Avery.
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Market Report ()
Rachael Sheridan, food buyer for Cube restaurant and marketplace on La Brea Ave, and chef Erin Eastland found fava bean tendrils at the market. The tendrils, the tops of the baby fava bean plant, taste just like a fava bean and work well in a sauté with brown butter.
Creamy Braised Fava Bean Tendrils
2 Tablespoons butter (unsalted)
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 tsp minced shallots
¼ cup white wine
6 cups fava tendrils (left whole)
1 cup heavy cream
Salt to taste
Brown the butter in a large sauté pan, meaning allow the butter to foam and then turn a light amber color. Remove from heat and immediately add the olive oil, shallots and fava tendrils. Using tongs, turn the tendrils to wilt them. Return to low heat and cook until they are wilted by half, add the wine and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook until wine has almost evaporated, then add the cream and peperoncini. Bring to a boil and cook until the cream is thick and tendrils are soft. Season to taste.
Farmer Peter Shaner of Valley Center has eight emus in addition to all his crops. Emus are flightless birds that look like ostriches. The shell of their large eggs are a gorgeous green color and almost look like malachite. Peter's selling these eggs, which are the equivalent to 10 chicken eggs and fluff up nicely when scrambled, for $10 each. Peter says they make great pets.
Jonathan Gold's Top Dishes of 2008 ()
Pulitzer Prize winning food writer Jonathan Gold of the LA Weekly eats at hundreds of restaurants every year for his Counter Intelligence column. His top 10 dishes of 2008 include:
Fried Hominy at Animal
Duck a L'orange at Anisette
Bok Jiui at Dae Bok
Eva Solo coffee at La Mill
Vegetables en Papillote at Palate Food & Wine
Roasted Root Vegetable Shepherd's Pie at Rustic Canyon
Mole at Moles La Tia
Luna Oysters from L.A. Farmers Markets
Cassoulet at Vermont
The Ripper at Fab Hot Dog
Read his full column and see pictures at the LA Weekly website.
American Masala Farm ()
Suvir Saran raises Heritage Breeds on his American Masala Farm in upstate New York. He partnered with the American Livestock Breed Conservancy to find breeds that are in the greatest need for preservation, including La Mancha goats and Leicester Longwool sheep.
Suvir is the chef and owner of Devi in New York and the author of several cookbooks including American Masala, the namesake for his farm. Producer Holly Tarson and her family visited the farm. You can read about her experience with Suvir, his goats and his wonderful cooking at our blog.
Pork Chops with Pear Chutney
The oil in the marinade makes it possible to cook these chops in a skillet with no extra fat. If you don’t have any Pear Chutney in the house, serve these with some applesauce spiked with a pinch of cayenne pepper.
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsps ground coriander
1-1/2 tsps cracked peppercorns
1 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
Four 8-oz 3/4" to 1-inch thick pork rib chops
1/2 recipe Pear Chutney
2 tsps sugar
Place the olive oil, coriander, cracked pepper, salt and cayenne pepper in a resealable gallon-sized plastic bag. Add the pork chops and turn to coat. Refrigerate for 20 minutes or overnight.
Set an oven rack to the upper-middle position and heat your broiler to high. Heat a large oven-safe skillet for 2 minutes over medium-high heat. Add the pork chops and sear until browned, about 3 minutes. Turn the chops over and transfer the skillet to the oven. Broil the chops for 3 minutes and then remove the skillet from the oven spread 2 tablespoons of Pear Chutney evenly over each chop. Sprinkle each chop with 1/4 teaspoon of sugar and return the skillet to the oven. Continue to broil the chops until the chutney is golden and even a little charred, about 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. Transfer the chops to a platter and serve.
Makes about 2 cups
3 Tablespoons canola oil
3 to 6 dried red chiles
1-1/2 tsps fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1/4 cup dried fenugreek leaves (optional)
1/2 tsp paprika
3-1/2 lbss (about 6) Bartlett or d’Anjou pears, peeled, halved, cored, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise
1-1/2 tsps kosher salt
1/4 cup sugar
2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar
Heat the oil with the chiles, fennel seeds and cumin seeds in a large saucepan or skillet over medium-high heat until the cumin is browned, about 2 to 2-1/2 minutes. Stir in the fenugreek leaves (if using), paprika and asafetida and cook for 15 seconds. Add the pears and salt and cook until the pears get juicy, about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 3 minutes. Cook until the pears are soft, sticky, deeply golden and caramelized, stirring often, for about 35 to 45 minutes. Taste for seasoning, transfer to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to one week or ladle into dry and sterilized jars and can according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
American Artisanal Cheese ()
Andrew Steiner is the owner of Andrew's Cheese Shop in Santa Monica, which sells many varieties of top American artisanal cheeses. Andrew recommends Sally Jackson's goat cheese, which is wrapped in grape leaves, and a clothbound cheddar from Cabot Creamery in Vermont.
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Du Vin Wine & Spirits: In business for more than two decades at San Vicente in West Hollywood, Du Vin offers more than 10,000 bottles of hand-picked wine, with staff specialists in the wines of France, Italy, Latin America and California.
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