Haitian Food; Thomas Keller; Pound Cake; Rutabagas
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The devastation caused by the recent earthquake in Haiti has touched people around the world. This week on Good Food, Eddie Lin visits LA's only Haitian restaurant, TiGeorge's Chicken in Echo Park, and chats with owner George Laguerre. Thomas Keller visits our studio and reflects on how he got his start in the kitchen. Jonathan Gold has a restaurant for us to try. Dr. Susan Brown encourages us to examine our body's pH balance. Carolyn Smith Kizer gives us a glimpse of history as a French Colonial reenactor. Jack Bishop of America's Test Kitchen shares the secret to perfect meatloaf. Plus Shirley Corriher celebrates the great American pound cake. And Laura Avery is at the Santa Monica Farmers Market.
Market Report ()
Armando Garcia brings in delicious cocktail grapefuit which are full of seeds but taste more like an orange than a bitter grapefruit. Cara Cara navel oranges are also in season. They taste better than a traditional navel and have a pink flesh. Both are in season through the summer.
Jean Francois Meteigner of La Cachette Bistro in Santa Monica tells us what do to with rutabagas. The root vegetable looks like a large turnip with an orange hue. The taste is somewhere between a turnip and a Garnet yam. Jean Francois adds them into a root vegetable cous cous and also makes a cumin-seasoned soup with them. He also recommends wrapping them in foil and baking them in the oven like you would a baked potato.
LA's Only Haitian Restaurant ()
George Laguerre is the owner of TiGeorge's Chicken in Echo Park, LA's only Haitian restaurant. TiGeorge's serves chicken spit roasted over an avocado wood fire. One of the specialties is a dish called acra, which is grated taro, herring and habañero deep fried into a patty. He also sells Haitian coffee imported from his family's coffee plantation.
George has been a focal point in the Haitian community for gathering support for the country which has been devastated by the recent earthquake. He recommends donating to Haitian organizations providing relief including Yele, Fonkoze, and International Eben-ezer Church of God, Inc. (714-870-7492).
Eddie Lin writes the blog DeepEndDining.com.
Many restaurants in the LA area are holding fundraisers for Haiti. They include
More from the LA Weekly.
Music Break: Tico by Don Swan
Armenia via Beirut ()
Jonathan likes soujuk, the mantee, and their fattouch, among others.
10962 Ventura Blvd
Studio City, CA 91604-3340
Music Break: Tiki Walk by Roudoudou
Thomas Keller ad hoc ()
Thomas Keller is the owner of The French Laundry, Bouchon and ad hoc in Yountville, CA. He also owns Bouchon in Las Vegas and now Beverly Hills as well as Per Se in Manhattan. Thomas's new book is ad hoc at home.
235 N Canon Dr
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Music Break: Tired Of Fighting by Menahan Street Band
Acid Alkaline Diet ()
Dr. Susan Brown studies the alkaline / acid balance in the body and how it relates to bone health. She says that the body tries to maintain a slightly alkaline level. The kidneys, lungs and to a lesser degree, skin all work to maintain this balance. If the chemistry cannot be balanced with those organs, the body will deplete the alkaline stores of muscles and bones, if necessary. She is the author of The Acid Alkaline Food Guide.
Living History ()
Carolyn Smith-Kizer is a French Colonial reenactor living in Illinois. She focuses her blog on food in the French Colonial era. She researches manuscripts to find recipes. Recently she's been cooking with Peau d'Espagne, which is a combination of flower and spice oils used to flavor meats. This is a recipe for spinach pie, or "Spinage-pan Pie."
Music Break: Too Late To Turn Back by El Michel's Affair
The Perfect Meat Loaf ()
Jack Bishop is the Editorial Director at America's Test Kitchen. He likes to make a meat loaf with ground veal, beef and pork. He also likes to use saltines soaked in milk as a filler to lighten the meat loaf. An all-meat loaf would be too dense and heavy.
Glazed Meat Loaf
Serves 6 to 8
1 cup ketchup
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
2 1/2 Tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 tsp hot sauce
2 tsp vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, minced
2/3 cup crushed saltine crackers (about 17 crackers)
1/3 cup whole milk
1 lb 90 percent lean ground beef
1 lb ground pork
2 large eggs plus 1 large yolk
2 tsps Dijon mustard
2 tsps Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper
1. MAKE GLAZE Whisk all ingredients in saucepan until sugar dissolves. Reserve ¼ cup glaze mixture, then simmer remaining glaze over medium heat until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Cover and keep warm.
2. COOK VEGETABLES Line rimmed baking sheet with foil and coat lightly with cooking spray. Heat oil in nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Cook onion until golden, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to large bowl.
3. PROCESS MEAT Process saltines and milk in food processor until smooth. Add beef and pork and pulse until well combined, about ten 1-second pulses. Transfer meat mixture to bowl with cooled onion mixture. Add eggs and yolk, mustard, Worcestershire, thyme, parsley, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¾ teaspoon pepper to bowl and mix with hands until combined.
4. BROIL Adjust oven racks to upper (about 4 inches away from broiler element) and middle positions and heat broiler. Transfer meat mixture to prepared baking sheet and shape into 9- by 5-inch loaf. Broil on upper rack until well browned, about 5 minutes. Brush 2 tablespoons uncooked glaze over top and sides of loaf and then return to oven and broil until glaze begins to brown, about 2 minutes.
5. BAKE Transfer meat loaf to middle rack and brush with remaining uncooked glaze. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake until meat loaf registers 160 degrees, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer to carving board, tent with foil, and let rest 20 minutes. Slice and serve, passing cooked glaze at table.
The Great American Pound Cake ()
Shirley Corriher is the author of Bakewise. One of her favorite recipes from the book is her Great American Poundcake.The Great American Pound Cake
An excess of sugar and butter make this cake wonderfully moist. The cake should be baked in a 12-cup Bundt or a 10-inch tube pan, which does not require as much protein structure to look perfect as a loaf cake does. The flavoring is blended with the fat, because the fat is a great flavor carrier and distributes the flavorings well. There will be holes in the cake if the leavening is not evenly distributed, so, it is important to beat the flour and leavening and any dry together well with a fork or hand beater.
Nonstick cooking spray with flour
1 cup unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 oz pieces
1/2 cup shortening
3 cups sugar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 tsp pure almond extract
1/2 tsp pure lemon extract
5 large eggs
3 cups spooned and leveled, bleached all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup buttermilk or whole milk
Note: The Great American Pound Cake original recipe calls for 1 cup of buttermilk or milk. You can substitute sour cream or heavy cream, for the milk but if you do be sure to add 1/3 cup of extra milk or buttermilk due to the higher fat content of the cream or sour cream.
1. Arrange a shelf in the lower third of the oven, place a baking stone on it, and preheat the oven to 350F.
2. Spray a 10-inch tube pan or a 12-cup Bundt pan generously with nonstick cooking spray with flour.
3. With a mixer on medium speed, beat the butter to soften. Add shortening and beat until the mixture is light and pale in color, about 3 minutes. Add sugar and continue to beat (cream) until very light, scraping down the sides and the bottom of the bowl at least once. While creaming, feel the bowl. If it does not feel cool, place in the freezer for 5 minutes and then continue creaming.
4. Beat in the vanilla, almond, and lemon extracts. On the lowest speed, beat in the eggs, one at a time.
5. In a medium bowl, with a fork or hand mixer, beat together flour, baking powder, and salt at least 30 seconds.
6. On the lowest speed, blend 1/3 of the flour mixture into the butter mixture. Alternate adding cream, and then flour, until all of both are incorporated. Scrape down the sides and across the bottom of the bowl at least once with a large flexible spatula. Then, blend in the buttermilk just to incorporate.
7. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Drop the pan onto the counter from a height of about 4 inches to knock out bubbles. Smooth the batter with a spatula.
8. Place the cake on the baking stone and bake until the cake springs back when lightly touched, or a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean but moist, about 1 hour. Ideally, the cake should not pull away from the sides until it has just come out of the oven. Place the cake in the pan on a rack to cool.
9. With a meat fork, punch holes in the cake and begin to slowly pour the soaking solution (recipe below) on the cake. Allow to soak in then pour again. Repeat until all of the soaking solution is absorbed. Allow to stand for about 10 minutes, and then shake the pan to loosen the cake all around. Allow the cake to stand in the pan for another hour to cool. Make sure that the cake is loosened from the pan by jarring it against the counter. Invert the cake onto the serving platter to finish cooling.
10. While the cake is still warm, brush and rebrush several times with the Shiny Glaze (recipe below) if you are using it. This cake improves upon standing for 2 or 3 days, well wrapped and refrigerated. If using icing, just before serving, drizzle icing on, not solidly, but with drools that run down the side.
Free Food ()
Mari Silva is a student at Santa Monica College. She's volunteering at KCRW's upcoming Subscription Drive. At each drive, local restaurants donate food for volunteers.
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