Midtown Lunch; Eastern European Wine; Rhubarb Sorbet
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More sidewalk cafes is one solution Rob Eshman has for Los Angeles. This week on Good Food, he details his dissatisfaction with L.A.'s food scene. Jonathan Gold goes foraging in Silverlake. We'll do lunch with Midtown Lunch's Zach Brooks. Francis Mallman describes Argentina's elaborate grilling tradition. Lisa Hamilton introduces us to three remarkable farmers. Plus Taylor Parsons describes how young winemakers are making a splash in Eastern Europe. And Laura Avery tells us what's fresh at the Santa Monica Farmers Market.
Market Report ()
David West from Clearwater Farms brings morels to the farmers market. He only has them for a few weeks. They are earthy and have a strong flavor. He likes them over a steak or cooked with eggs.
Rachael Narins is shopping for rhubarb at the farmers market. She is a chef and partner in Chicks with Knives, a roaming supper club that focuses on sustainable, organic and local food. She is making rhubarb sorbet cooked with white wine and ver jus.
1 lb trimmed rhubarb
8 oz tart apples, peeled
4 oz white wine
4 oz ver jus
5 oz sugar
2 1/4 oz honey
Pinch SaltIn a pot combine all except the rose water and salt. Bring to a simmer and cook over medium low heat until all the fruit is tender. Remove from the heat, cover with plastic wrap and let cool for 20 minutes. Strain very well through a chinois, cool over and ice bath then season with salt and adjust the acidity if needed. Freeze in an ice cream machine.
Deeply Rooted ()
She profiles three farmers that are taking an unconventional approach to agriculture:
Harry Lewis, an African-American dairy farmer in west Texas.
Virgil Trujillo, rancher in Northern New Mexico
The Podolls in Fullerton, North Dakota
Grilling the Argentine Way ()
Francis Mallman is the author of Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way.
Burnt Ricotta Salata, Tomatoes and Olives
1 tsp sugar
3 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup fresh oregano leaves
12 oz cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 cup Kalamata olives
10 oz ricotta salata
2 small red chiles
1/4 tsp crushed rep pepper flakes
Smash the olives with the side of a heavy knife and tear them open, removing the pits. Toss the olives and tomatoes together on a serving platter.
Break the ricotta salata into rough 1-inch pieces and place in a bowl. Halve the chiles, remove the seeds, and cut lengthwise into thin slices. Add the ricotta and toss with the remaining 5 tablespoons olive oil.
Heat a chapa (a flat piece of cast iron set over a fire) or large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the ricotta and the chiles in batches, so they aren't crowded, and cook without moving for 5 to 10 seconds; as soon as you see the cheese charring on the bottom, remove the cheese and chiles and place the burnt side up over the tomatoes and olives. Sprinkle with salt and red pepper flakes. Serve immediately.
Braided Beef with Anchovies and Olives
15 anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives
1 center-cut beef tender loin roast, at least 12 inches long, partially butterfied
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Brush a chapa (a flat piece of cast iron set over a fire) or large cast-iron griddle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and heat over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles on the surface. Add the beef and cook without moving for 10 minutes, or until it is nicely browned on the first side. Turn the meat over and sear on the other side for about 6 minutes—the meat should be quite rare. Continue turning and cooking the meat until all the sides are seared and it is done to taste. Transfer the meat to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, lightly smash the remaining olives and place alongside the meat. The juices will run together.
Remove the string, carve the beef into thick slices, and season with pepper. Serve with olives and juices.
Music Break: Saturday Night by Billy Strange
Foraging with Jonathan Gold ()
Jonathan Gold is the Pulitzer Prize winning food writer for the LA Weekly. This week he reviews Forage in Silverlake. He likes the chickpeas cooked with chorizo. Customers can bring in produce from their backyards to be used in the menu.
3823 West Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90026-1529
All of Jonathan's suggestions are on the Good Food Restaurant Map.
View Good Food Restaurant Map in a larger map
What's Wrong with LA's Food Scene ()
Rob Eshman writes the blog Foodaism for the Jewish Journal. After Saveur magazine dedicated an issue to Los Angeles, Rob countered with a post about what he thinks is wrong with Los Angeles' food scene.
Music Break: Seven and 7 by The Bo-Keys
Eastern European Wines ()
2004 Pinela - Ivan Batic, Vipava Valley, Slovenia
2006 Sauvignon - Movia, Brda, Slovenia
2007 Pelješac - Dingac Winery, Pelješac Penninsula, Croatia
2006 Cabernet Franc - Batic, Vipava Valley, Slovenia
Midtown Lunch ()
Zach Brooks writes the blog Midtown Lunch, which has a new Los Angeles edition. His recommendations for L.A. are:
Downtown - Starry Kitchen (350 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, (213) 617-3474)
Mid-Wilshire - Food trucks parked across from LACMA
Hollywood - Ghanda (5269 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 466-4281)
Culver City - Simpang Asia (10433 National Blvd., Los Angeles, 310-815-9075)
Westwood - Alcazar Express (1303 Westwood Boulevard, Los Angeles, (310) 914-9777)
Burbank - Cafe Colombia (222 South Glenoaks Boulevard, Burbank, (818) 558-3985)
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