Homemade Sausage; Korean Cold Noodles; Portuguese Wine
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Believe it or not, making sausage at home is actually really easy. This week on Good Food, Ken Albala shares his technique for this lost art. Jonathan Gold takes us out for cold Korean noodles. Plus Stacie Hunt tells us about table wine from Portugal and Corsica, which are part of the 2-bottle Good Food wine club premium package. And Laura Avery finds fresh goji berries -- grown in California -- at the farmers market.
This is a special Membership Drive edition of Good Food. Listen as a member. Join KCRW by calling 1-800-600-KCRW or join online. Good Food host Evan Kleiman is throwing a dinner party at Loteria Grill for people who donate $75 or more. Under $75 and you'll be invited to a coffee and dessert party at Church and State. Make sure to put the words "Good Food" in the comments section of the online form. This offer is available until September 7.
Market Report ()
Wild Alaskan Halibut with Shell Bean Stew
4 Alaskan halibut filets, 6 oz
8 oz Shell beans, braised (separate recipe provided)
8 oz Heirloom peppers, sweet
8 oz Torpedo onion
8 oz Bean liquor, reserved
8 Lemon verbena leaves
1 oz Extra virgin olive oil, California Olive Ranch
Heat heavy bottom sauté pan over high heat.
Season fish with sea salt, add olive to pan
Roast fish until a nicely browned crust forms, do not turn over
Place pan in pre heated 400° oven (all metal sauté pan, no plastic handles)
Shell Bean Stew:
Split peppers, remove seeds, cut into fat strips
Slice onion into ¼” rings
Add olive oil to pan, add lemon verbena leaves and toast
Add peppers and onions, sautéing until slightly tender and translucent
Add braised shell beans and bean liquor
Cook until stew lightly thickens
Shell Bean Braise
1 lb Shell beans, assorted varieties
1 Leek, split and washed
1 Garlic clove, smashed
1 Tablespoon Extra virgin olive oil
1 Thyme sprig
1 Bay leaf, fresh
Shell all bean varieties, separating according to size
Wash and slice carrot
Wash leek and tie with thyme and bay leaf
Sweat vegetables for several minutes over low heat
Start with the largest bean
Add cold water to cover
Simmer gently until al dente, adding beans in descending order of size to ensure even one pot cooking
When all beans are tender, remove from heat
Cool beans in cooking liquid, separate and save bean liquor for finished dish
Photo: David Karp
David Karp is a pomologist who writes for the LA Times. He recently wrote about goji berries which farmer Harry Nicholas is selling on a second certificate at the Santa Monica Farmers Market. Native to China and prized for their medicinal properties, goji berries are now being grown here in California. Harry Nicholas is selling them for farmer Chuck Garrigus.
Homemade Sausage ()
Ken Albala is the author of The Lost Art of Real Cooking with Rosanna Nafziger. He recommends using shoulder meat, chop it finely and then add salt, nitrates and seasoning. Use a funnel to get it into the casing. Ken also used beef bungs to make dried Italian sausage. He uses nitrates when making salumi, and he argues that it's impossible not to.
Sweet Italian Sausage
from Sausage by Victoria Wise
1 3/4 lbs ground pork
1/4 lb salt pork, fat part only, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
1 tsp chopped fresh oregano or scant 1/2 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried thyme
2 tsp fennel seeds
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 cup white wine
1 tsp kosher salt
Place all the ingredients except the salt in a large bowl, and knead with your hands until thoroughly blended. Cook and taste a small sample, then add the salt if needed. Leave in bulk and shape or stuff into hog casing. Cover and refrigerate for several hours, or preferably overnight to allow flavors to blend.
Saute or grill. The uncooked sausage will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 1 week.
Cold Korean Noodles ()
Jonathan Gold is the Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer for the LA Weekly. This week he reviews Yu Chun, a restaurant selling naengmyon, or cold Korean noodles. Jonathan likes bibim naengmyon and the mandoo, or dumplings.
Yu Chun Chic Naeng Myun
3185 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown
All of Jonathan's restaurant suggestions are on the Good Food Restaurant Map.
Good Food Wine Club ()
Stacie Hunt is a sommelier with Du Vin Wine & Spirits and Splash Productions. She's put together a 2-bottle wine package for Good Food supporters who join during the current membership drive. The wines include:
- '07 Vale do Bomfim from the House of Dow Port brand in Portugal. While Portugal is known for its port wines, this is a red table wine.
- '09 Domaine Maestracci "E Prove" Corse Calvi Blanc from Corsica. This label is run by Michel Raoust. The wine is 100% Vermintino.
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