History of Ketchup; Homemade Mustard; Is White Bread Racist?
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Tracie McMillan goes undercover picking peaches, crisping lettuce and working at Applebee's to find out how America's food system works. Elina Shatkin discovers the myriad possibilities in a sandwich and highlights some of her favorites in LA. Aaron Bobrow-Strain explains how race, war and politics all contributed to the success of white bread in America. The history of ketchup is outlined by Andrew F. Smith and Noelle Carter details how simple making mustard at home can be. Plus, Jonathan Gold finds one of this year's best dishes and Gustavo Arellano takes us out for a mash up of Middle Eastern food in Anaheim.
Banner image: Wonder Bread (previous Canadian packaging)
Market Report ()
Jeremy Strubel is the new executive chef at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica. He's using squash blossoms from Life's a Choke Farms, stuffing them with a mixture of squash, goat cheese, ricotta and soft herbs, and then frying them in a light batter. A recipe for his Stuffed Squash Blossom Filling is on the Good Food Blog.
Bill Coleman is the owner of Coleman Family Farms. Each week he has an astounding array of lettuces and herbs at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market. He says in the springtime that sorrel really begins to pop. Most commonly sorrel is used in soups and stocks.
Music break: "Disguise" by Josh Rouse & the Long Vacations
The American Way of Eating ()
Tracie McMillan is the author of The American Way of Eating. The book chronicles her journey working undercover as a farmworker, a Walmart employee and a kitchen staff member at Applebee's.
You can see McMillan in conversation with Evan Kleiman at a Zócalo Public Square event on Thursday, April 19. The topic of discussion will be "Is Eating Well Just for the Rich?" Learn more or reserve a seat.
30 Sandwiches in 30 Days ()
Daily Dose - The Farmer
Mezze - Pastrami Sandwich (only on Sunday)
King Torta - Al Pastor Torta
Cook's Torta's - Torta Bacalao, Torta Ahogada
Spice Table - Bahn Mi
Ink Sack - The Spanish Godfather
Sotto - Porchetta
Baco Mercat - The Toron
Torta Mojito at Cooks Tortas
The Farmer sandwich at Daily Dose
Photos courtesy of Elina Shatkin's Guzzle & Nosh
Assorted sandwiches from ink.sack
White Bread, Then and Now ()
Aaron Bobrow-Strain is a professor at Whitman College and the author of White Bread: A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf. In the book he explores the factors that led to the popularity in white bread from fear of immigration, war and industrial ingenuity.
An outtake of his conversation with Evan is on the Good Food Blog.
The History of Ketchup ()
Andrew F. Smith teaches Food Studies at the New School in New York. A frequent writer and lecturer on food history, he's edited or authored 19 books, including Pure Ketchup: A History of America's National Condiment with Recipes.
Homemade Mustard, Quick and Simple ()
Noelle Carter is themanager for the Los Angeles Times' Test Kitchen. Her article on homemade mustard in the Times inspired this segment on how to make mustard at home. Recipes for her homemade mustard are on the Good Food Blog.
Brussels Sprouts Worth Driving For ()
Jonathan Gold visits Freddy Smalls, one of the many gastro-pubs featuring craft cocktails and bar bites to open this year. Although predominantly a drinking establishment, Jonathan raves about the BBQ cashews and the fried brussel sprouts. He also enjoys the charcuterie and the crisp pork belly with abalone. He describes "Reuben's Gluttony" -- which combines corned beef, bone marrow, yorkshire pudding and sauerkraut -- as the ultimate boy food. You can hear his full restaurant review on our Good Food on the Road page.
11520 W Pico Blvd
West Los Angeles, CA 90064
You can find all of Jonathan's restaurant suggestions on the Good Food restaurant map.
Middle Eastern Fusion ()
Gustavo Arellano is the editor of the OC Weekly and the author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America. This week he visits Midan al Tahrir, a "pan Middle Eastern restaurant" featuring dishes from Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, Qatar, Yemen, Saudi Arabia and more. He raves about the koushari, which he describes as the Egyptian equivalent to Rice-a-Roni. He also enjoys several appetizers like the fava beans and diced jalapeños, the roasted dove and the eggplant with marinara sauce.
Midan al Tahrir
1324 S Magnolia Ave
Anaheim, CA 92804
You can find all of Gustavo's restaurant suggestions on the Good Food restaurant map.
You can also hear more about his new book and how Mexican food conquered America in this recent 'Reporter's Notebook' segment of KCRW's Which Way, LA?
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