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FROM THIS EPISODE

Spotlight on Asian Cuisine:  Jonathan Gold samples the chicken-ginseng soup at Keumsan Samgyetang in Koreatown; producer Thea Chaloner travels with a sushi chef in search of the freshest fish; Sasha Issenberg reveals the big business of sushi; and Saveur magazine’s James Oseland discovers the little-known foods of Southern Thailand. Jane and Michael Stern find a slice of Americana in the form of sandwiches; Jimmy Shaw plunges into summer with a cool glass of agua frescaEugenie Mason provides gluten-free treats in her bakery; and Laura Avery checks-out artisan cheeses in the Market Report.

One Good Dish

David Tanis

Producers:
Bob Carlson
Jennifer Ferro
Thea Chaloner
Candace Moyer
Holly Tarson

Guest Interview A Cool Sip of Summer 7 MIN

Aguas Frescas.jpg

Aguas frescas (Spanish for "fresh waters") are a fresh juice drink whose popularity in Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean has finally reached the U.S.  Their irresistibly refreshing and simple combination of fruits, sugar and water make them the perfect antidote to the heat of summer or to complement a spicy meal.  Jimmy Shaw, owner of the Loteria Grill recently brought a sampling of aguas frescas to the Good Food studios, where he discussed his favorite flavors for this thirst-quenching drink.

Loteria Grill
Farmers Market
6333 W. 3rd St.
Los Angeles
323-930-2211


Guest Interview Keumsan Samgyetang 7 MIN

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The classic Korean dish, samgyetang (chicken-ginseng soup) is an easy-to-find dish in Koreatown.  Lucky for us, the neighborhood is also blessed with the presence of Keumsan Samgyetang – a restaurant with a menu specializing in chicken and some of the best samgyetang in town, which Jonathan Gold recently stopped by to try.  The dish comes in a bowl of milky, frothy broth, scented with wisps of ginseng.  The tiny chicken that sits in the broth is stuffed with sticky rice, jujubes, whole garlic cloves and a slice of ginseng root – a very rich and pungent soup that is comparable to chicken-in-a-pot.

Keumsan Samgyetang
1144 S. Western Ave.
Koreatown
323-731-9999

Guest Interview Sushi Economy 7 MIN

Sushi Economy.jpg

In his most recent book, The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy, Sasha Issenberg explores the network of industries that collide to bring sushi to our humble plates.  It’s big business that has created its own economy, from fisherman and shippers to marine biologists and chefs and even tuna pirates.

Guest Interview Gluten-Free Bakery 7 MIN

Gluten Free.jpg

Those who are sensitive to wheat gluten have reason to celebrate -- The Sensitive Baker, a brand new gluten-free/dairy-free/kosher bakery in Culver City -- have opened their doors.  Eugenie Mason is one of the bakers and she stopped by to talk about the mission of the bakery and the challenges they face in creating their treats within the “new frontier” of gluten-free baking.

The Sensitive Baker
www.thesensitivebaker.com
10836 1/2 Washington Blvd.
Culver City
310-815-1800

Guest Interview The Great American Sandwich 7 MIN

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Jane and Michael Stern
are a husband-and-wife team that have traveled the country since the 1970s, seeking out what they call “roadfood.”  Since that time they have written more than 30 books on the subject.  They are also contributing editors to Gourmet magazine, where they write a James Beard Award-winning monthly column, called (surprisingly) RoadfoodRoadfood Sandwiches: Recipes and Lore from Our Favorite Shops Coast to Coast is their latest book.  Their website -- Roadfood.com -- is a tribute to the most memorable and beloved local eateries.


Ham & Beef & Cheese Double Decker

Preparation Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 0 minutes
Servings: 1
Recipe Source:  Camp Washington Chili Parlor

While lesser known than chili outside of Cincinnati, the double decker is every bit as big a deal to Queen City chowhounds. As the name suggests, it is a variation of the club sandwich: three slices of bread interleaved with multiple ingredients, almost always constructed in such a way that the sandwich is taller than it is wide, defying the most wide-open jaw. Ingredient choices for double-deckers range from bacon and egg to hot ham and cheese, turkey, beef, and bacon, all generally piled in with lettuce, tomato, mayo, mustard, pickle, etc. We are especially fond of hot ham, which is sliced thin and loaded into the bread in moist clumps, and generally paired with American cheese.

Ingredients:

3 slices sturdy white bread ("toasting style" preferred)
Softened butter
Lettuce leaves
3 ounces thin-sliced baked ham, warm
Tomato slices
Mayonnaise, mustard to taste
2 ounces sliced American cheese or Velveeta
3 ounces thin-sliced roast beef
Pickle chips as garnish

Directions:

1. Lightly toast the bread.
2. Butter two slices of the toast.
3. Lay the lettuce leaves onto one buttered slice, then pile on the ham. Place the tomato slices atop the ham.
4. Spread mayonnaise on one side of the unbuttered piece of toast and place it, mayo-side-down, onto the tomatoes. If mustard is desired, spread the mustard on the top of this slice. Place the cheese on top of this slice. then pile in the beef. Cap the sandwich with the third piece of buttered toast.
5. Use two long toothpicks to hold the sandwich together and use a very sharp knife to cut it into two triangles.


Green Tomato BLT

Preparation Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Servings: 1
Recipe Source:  Loveless Cafe

Of all the variations on the classic theme of the BLT, the Loveless Cafe's version, layered with crisp fried green tomatoes, is one of the most beguiling. The tang of the tomatoes and their brittle crunch provides extraordinary balance for the savor of bacon and gentle notes of mayo and lettuce.

Ingredients:

3 to 4 slices of green tomato
Salt
Black Pepper
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup canola oil
3 to 4 thick bacon strips (cooked)
2 to 3 lettuce leaves
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 slices toasted wheat berry bread

Directions:

1. Season sliced tomatoes with salt & pepper and dredge in cornmeal.
2. Heat the canola oil in a skillet. Fry the tomatoes until crisp and golden brown on both sides.
3. Spread the mayo on the wheat bread. Add lettuce on both sides of the bread. Add the fried green tomatoes and bacon.
4. Build the sandwich and cut in half.

Recipes courtesy of Roadfood.com

Guest Interview Sushi Ride-Along 7 MIN

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Nobi Kusuhara is the chef and owner of the upscale sushi restaurant Sushi Sasbune.  Good Food producer Thea Chaloner rides along with him at 4 a.m. to get the best of the daily catch – the freshest and highest quality fish.


Nobi Smelt.jpg

Smelt on ice


Nobi Giant Clams.jpg

Giant clams


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Fresh fish


Nobi.jpg

Chef and owner of Sushi Sasbune, Nobi


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The finished product!

Sushi Sasbune
12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 150
Los Angeles
310-820-3596

Guest Interview The Market Report 7 MIN

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Laura Avery discusses the art of cheese making with the Winchester Dairy, who feature varieties of aged Gouda cheese made with raw cow’s milk, including a jalapeno style, a smoked style and an herb-infused variety.  Also available at the market is a raw, aged sheep’s milk cheese from the Rinconada Dairy.   Rinconada’s entire cheese-making process -- from milking the sheep to birthing the lambs -- is managed and produced by a 60 year-old woman.

Winchester Cheese Company
www.winchestercheese.com
32605 Holland Rd.
Winchester
951-926-4239

Rinconada Dairy
www.rinconadadairy.com
4680 W. Pozo Rd.
Santa Margarita, CA
805-438-5667


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Scott Peacock is also at the market with 6 varieties of eggplant, including the long, thin, dark Japanese variety.

Guest Interview Spicy Foods of Southern Thailand 7 MIN

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James Oseland is the editor of Saveur magazine – he recently visited the deep south of Thailand and wrote an article about their cuisine.  The foods of Southern Thailand are a heady mix of spicy heat and multicultural influence from neighboring countries, which separates them from the cooking traditions of the north.  He explains how their culinary style developed and shares a few recipes.

Tom Yum Goong (Sweet and Sour Prawn Soup)
Serves 4

Pornpitlum Pattcha's version of this dish was made with large saltwater prawns known in Thai as goong yai. Check your local Asian market for hard-to-find ingredients. Bring 1 quart water to a boil in a large pot. Add 8 whole fresh or frozen kaffir lime leaves, 2 crushed cloves garlic, 1 trimmed stalk lemongrass halved lengthwise, and one 3" piece peeled fresh or frozen galangal cut crosswise into 1/4"-thick coins. Reduce heat to medium and cook until fragrant, 3–4 minutes. Add 5 head-on, shell-on jumbo prawns, halved lengthwise, and boil gently until just cooked through, about 30 seconds. Add 3/4 cup fresh lime juice, 1/4 cup fish sauce, 3–4 tbsp. semimoist thai palm sugar, 5 red or green thai chiles, stemmed and halved lengthwise, 2 cored and quartered plum tomatoes, and salt to taste. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until tomatoes are softened, 4–5 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with 1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro. Serve immediately with steamed jasmine rice.

Mee Teow (Stir-Fried Rice Vermicelli with Black Pepper and Chinese Chives)
Serves 4

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add 5 oz. rice vermicelli noodles; press down to submerge noodles. Immediately cover pot and turn off heat; let rest for 3 minutes. Drain noodles, rinse well in cold water, and drain again. Cut noodles in half and spread them out on a paper towel–lined sheet tray and set aside to let dry slightly, 2–3 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 4 tsp. peanut oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 roughly chopped cloves garlic and cook until golden, about 30 seconds. Add 30 trimmed chinese chives cut into 2 1/2" pieces (about 2 cups) and cook until just softened, about 30 seconds. Reduce heat to medium-low, add 2 cups mung bean sprouts, 1 tbsp. soy sauce, 2 tsp. shaoxing jiu (Chinese rice wine), 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, salt to taste, and reserved noodles, and toss together. Cook until chives are wilted, about 1 minute more. Serve at once.

First published in Saveur, June 2007

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