FROM THIS EPISODE
You may not think the Secretary of Agriculture has anything to do with you. But everything related to food in this country — down to the cost of produce at the market and the price of a steak dinner at your favorite restaurant — falls under the purview of the Ag secretary. The President has chosen former governor of Georgia, Sonny Perdue, to carry out his new agenda in the wake of this week’s hotly contested withdrawal from the Paris Treaty. We called Harvest Public Media’s Investigations Editor, Peggy Lowe, to find out how rural America is reacting to the big changes coming to crop subsidies, immigration, school nutrition programs, food stamps and more.
The last time we spoke with the world’s most famous butcher, Dario Cecchini, he shared his story of abandoning his dream of becoming a veterinarian to enter the family business. Antica Macelleria Cecchini in the small Tuscan village of Panzano is a destination for epicures who revere nose-to-tail cooking. Cecchini now has an ambitious new concept in the works. Inspired by a recent trip to Brazil, he plans to turn frequently overlooked forequarter cuts into delicious — yet affordable — dishes like Chianti ramen. The highly anticipated Cecchini Panini will open its doors in March of 2018.
Man, meat, fire. What could be more primal than the act of grilling a steak? For that, we turn to Richard H. Turner. He’s the co-owner of Turner & George, a rare breed meat merchant based in London, and the executive chef of Hawksmoor. In 2015, he took home the city prize for best steak. Get tips from Mr. Meatopia himself for everything from barbecuing to butchering bovines, buying quality cuts of beef and recipes in his newly published “PRIME: The Beef Cookbook.”
Richard H. Turner
In the 1970s, making smoked salmon mousse was a snap. A touch of cream, a little salmon, plus a few drops of liquid smoke. But in much of the barbecue community, the smoky liquid fix is considered sacrilege. Bottles of the flavoring agent have been on the market since 1898, but this quick fix is the antithesis to the “low and slow” ethos preached by barbecue purists. Food writer Matthew Sedacca delves into the history and controversy associated with liquid smoke for Eater.
There’s no shortage of Sichuan restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley, where a new host of trendy hotspots offers more options to adventurous eaters than just the tongue-numbing, ma la sensation found at places like Chengdu Taste or Szechuan Impression. This week, LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold sits down to a 9-course tasting tour at Chengdu Impression, the newest outpost of a Chinese restaurant group based in Sichuan’s capital city. Read his full LA Times review here.
Panda dumpling. (Photo courtesy of Sichuan Impression)
Chengdu Impression: 21 East Huntington Drive, Arcadia, CA 91006 | (626) 462-9999
Long before anyone realized that gluten-sensitivity was an autoimmune disorder, Elisabeth Prueitt endured the daily discomforts of developing the pastry recipes that would turn Tartine Bakery & Cafe into San Francisco's most popular destination for the carb-loving, all-day brunch crowd. It wasn't until she switched to naturally leavened breads made from heirloom grains that Prueitt's symptoms finally subsided. More than a decade later, she and her husband, Chad Robertson, are expanding to a fourth Bay Area location, with their largest retail operation yet coming to Downtown LA’s Arts District later this year. Prueitt’s new book, “Tartine All Day,” shares seasonal recipes and techniques for the modern home cook. Find a recipe for Prueitt’s buckwheat crêpes on the “Good Food” blog.
There's nothing more beguiling than food that speaks of place. At Truss & Twine in Palm Springs, chef Michael Beckman gets hyper-local with nopales from the Santa Monica Farmers Market that he uses to make a cactus confit that he pairs with goat cheese dusted in dehydrated bougainvillea powder. Farmer Mario Trevino of Trevino Farms in Lompoc, California, says his hearty succulents may be prickly, but nopales aren’t picky about the soil they’re grown in. The paddles grow year-round but are the most tender in the springtime. He uses the cactus pears that come in during the fall to make agua fresca. Find a recipe for Beckman’s cactus confit on the “Good Food” blog.
More From Good Food
Remembering Anthony Bourdain The death of Anthony Bourdain is a loss felt around the world. His nomadic spirit redefined how many of us ate and traveled. We dug through the Good Food archives for Evan’s past interviews with Bourdain about everything from “Kitchen Confidential” to No Reservations. Plus, a visit to a remarkable memorial in New York. Also, we learn more about Tony’s love of punk rock from his 2010 appearance on KCRW’s Guest DJ Project.
The Water Show Water may be the essence of life but it’s subject to near-constant misuse. Journalist Mark Arax profiles a couple running a water monopoly in the Central Valley. A once abundant Cambodian lake is in decline, leaving fisherman and half the population scrambling for fish. We’ve heard of using less water but what about eating less water? And Mark Gold (Jonathan’s brother) shares tips on water conservation in LA.
Mark Bittman on grilling, the business of beef, and historic Filipinotown It’s summer cookout season, and Mark Bittman has some essential grilling tips. Third-generation butcher Katie Flannery talks life in the beef business. English chef James Whetlor wants us to consider eating more goat. As Filipinotown gentrifies, the owners of a new bar are trying to reach out to their neighbors. Jonathan Gold talks food-centric cinema. And a peculiar vegetable is popping up at the farmers market.
Nigella Lawson, peaches, and reimagining Jewish food at Freedman's Fine dining is nice, but sometimes the best bites are those that remind us of home. Nigella Lawson wants to celebrate home cooks in her latest book. Jonah and Amanda Freedman are recreating the bagels of their childhood at their modern Jewish deli, Freedman’s. Beyond the bagels, Jonathan Gold says the rest of the menu at Freedman’s is delicious and nostalgic in ways difficult to explain. Also, peaches at the market.
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Good Food remembers Anthony Bourdain The death of Anthony Bourdain was a loss felt around the world. The Good Food team remembers the culinary giant and the unique impact his career had on each of us. Read More
Serving Cocktails and Culture in LA’s Historic Filipinotown Some say new developments and gentrification are threatening LA’s Historic Filipinotown. A new neighborhood gin bar is trying to do things differently. Contributor Paola Mardo brings us their story. Read More
Try Nigella Lawson’s easily elegant chicken and pea traybake Just because a meal is low maintenance doesn’t mean it has to compromise on taste. Ask celebrity food personality Nigella Lawson! She says this traybake recipe is a favorite from her book “At My Table: A Celebration of Home Cooking,” because of its simplicity yet maximal flavor. Read More