FROM THIS EPISODE
We kick off this week’s watery show with the tale of The Codfather. Reporter Ben Goldfarb covered the rise and fall of Carlos Rafael for the Food & Environment Reporting Network (FERN) and Mother Jones magazine. His piece is a fascinating look at how a Portuguese fisherman amassed a flotilla of 40 boats, while managing to skirt commercial fishing regulations for years. Learn how his arrest upended New England’s fishing industry.
“Trust the Gorton’s fisherman,” or so the slogan goes. But truth be told, if you were to eat a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich in Alaska, the fish inside the breading will have crossed the continental United States twice on its journey to Gloucester, Massachusetts, to be sliced and batter-coated in breadcrumbs before returning west to the Golden Arches. Journalist Lee van der Voo takes a deep dive into the commercial fishing industry in her new book, “The Fish Market.” In it, she exposes the monopolies, privatization and exclusionary practices that are just as rampant on the seas as they are in America’s agricultural industry.
Lee van der Voo
This week at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, Ricardo Zarate, the chef-owner of Rosaliné in West Hollywood, is shopping for ají amarillo, huacatay and Japanese Momotaro tomatoes. He uses them in a branzino dish called pescado parrillero, which he learned to cook from an ex-girlfriend’s mom. Then, farmer Cuco Arambula explains to Laura Avery how he grows Momotaro tomatoes at Beylik Family Farms in Fillmore, California.
When it comes to oysters, Rowan Jacobsen does not mince words: “A good oyster smells like the sea breeze skipping over the shore. A bad oyster smells like a murder victim.” That pearl of wisdom is one of many you’ll find in Jacobsen’s impressive new compendium about the bivalve: “The Essential Oyster: A Salty Appreciation of Taste and Temptation.” In it, he also shares a roadmap to the best oysters in the United States.
Bren Smith is the executive director of GreenWave. The longtime commercial fisherman recently discovered restorative 3-D ocean farming of shellfish and seaweed. We reached out to him at Thimble Island Ocean Farm in Connecticut to learn how his underwater farming model is reviving ecosystems, reversing the effects of climate change and creating new jobs.
More From Good Food
David Tanis, a Thanksgiving cocktail, Cipe Pineles, and 'Sangsgiving' This week, we are prepping for Thanksgiving with seasonal stories of food, culture, and creativity. David Tanis offers market-inspired ideas for sides. Laura Avery talks persimmon and pinecone cocktails. Cipe Pineles just wants to be left alone with her recipes. Jonathan Gold enjoys a meal at Ink.well. LA Times and Pie Contest judge Noelle Carter gives us a holiday dessert pep-talk. Sang Yoon gives us permission to skip the Thanksgiving traditions this year.
Gail Simmons, sexual harassment in the kitchen, and Zingerman's Bakehouse Gail Simmons shares stories of travels and home cooking, Brett Anderson investigates harassment at the Besh Restaurant Group, and Jonathan Gold revisits Osawa in Pasadena. Emily Thelin’s new book ‘Unforgettable’ explores Paula Wolfert’s life and legacy. It’s all coming up radishes at the market, and Zingerman’s Bakehouse has a lot to celebrate.
Guerrilla Tacos, North Korea's seafood workers, and the Grand Central Market centennial Martha Mendoza updates us on North Korea’s role in the seafood industry, Maryn McKenna investigates how antibiotics changed poultry. Grand Central Market turns 100, celebrating with a cookbook. Jonathan Gold hangs at Sari Sari in the market. Wes Avila wants to ‘taco’ ‘bout it and sweet potatoes at the market.
Jonathan Gold's 101, modernist baking, and smoking salmon Jonathan Gold releases his much anticipated 101 Best Restaurants list and shares some memories of the late Chef Tui of Jitlada. Adam Federman researches food writer Patience Gray, and artist Kim Abeles discusses her work that marries smog with the plate. 10 years of Santa Monica Farmer’s Market cookbook, plus quince from Dinuba. Also, Micah Wexler of Wexler’s Deli takes us on a smoke break.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
An ode to Thanksgiving side dishes During his tenure as head chef at Chez Panisse, David Tanis perfected his market-fresh style of cooking. This year, we pressed him for some seasonal side-dishes, sure to please any Thanksgiving table. Read More
Spaghetti Pie: probably not Stanley Tucci approved Different recipes can evoke specific memories. For Gail Simmons, this spaghetti pie reminds her of backpacking across New Zealand and Australia at 19, eating at little roadside stops along the way Read More