FROM THIS EPISODE
We kick off this week’s watery show with the tale of The Codfather. Reporter Ben Goldfarb covered the rise and fall of Carlos Rafael for the Food & Environment Reporting Network (FERN) and Mother Jones magazine. His piece is a fascinating look at how a Portuguese fisherman amassed a flotilla of 40 boats, while managing to skirt commercial fishing regulations for years. Learn how his arrest upended New England’s fishing industry.
“Trust the Gorton’s fisherman,” or so the slogan goes. But truth be told, if you were to eat a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich in Alaska, the fish inside the breading will have crossed the continental United States twice on its journey to Gloucester, Massachusetts, to be sliced and batter-coated in breadcrumbs before returning west to the Golden Arches. Journalist Lee van der Voo takes a deep dive into the commercial fishing industry in her new book, “The Fish Market.” In it, she exposes the monopolies, privatization and exclusionary practices that are just as rampant on the seas as they are in America’s agricultural industry.
Lee van der Voo
This week at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, Ricardo Zarate, the chef-owner of Rosaliné in West Hollywood, is shopping for ají amarillo, huacatay and Japanese Momotaro tomatoes. He uses them in a branzino dish called pescado parrillero, which he learned to cook from an ex-girlfriend’s mom. Then, farmer Cuco Arambula explains to Laura Avery how he grows Momotaro tomatoes at Beylik Family Farms in Fillmore, California.
When it comes to oysters, Rowan Jacobsen does not mince words: “A good oyster smells like the sea breeze skipping over the shore. A bad oyster smells like a murder victim.” That pearl of wisdom is one of many you’ll find in Jacobsen’s impressive new compendium about the bivalve: “The Essential Oyster: A Salty Appreciation of Taste and Temptation.” In it, he also shares a roadmap to the best oysters in the United States.
Bren Smith is the executive director of GreenWave. The longtime commercial fisherman recently discovered restorative 3-D ocean farming of shellfish and seaweed. We reached out to him at Thimble Island Ocean Farm in Connecticut to learn how his underwater farming model is reviving ecosystems, reversing the effects of climate change and creating new jobs.
More From Good Food
Vinegar, 'Tasting Georgia,' and dinner and a movie, Bollywood-style Sri Rao pairs classic Indian dishes with Bollywood films, and Carla Capalbo fills us in on the ancient wine and food traditions of Georgia in the Caucasus region. Harry Rosenblum shares tips on how to make vinegar at home, then Michael Harlan Turkell takes us on a global acid trip. Plus: Jonathan Gold’s New Zealand food crawl and honeynut squash at the market.
Ottolenghi and Goh stay 'Sweet,' passion fruit, DJ Wolfgang Puck Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh get ‘Sweet’ in a new cookbook, Jonathan Gold tries Thunderbolt frog in the SGV and Linda Civitello sheds light on the revolutionary power of baking powder. Plus: Laura Avery shops for passion fruit at the market and Wolfgang Puck stops by the basement to share his favorite tunes.
Besha's goodbye, foraging tips and a new Night + Market cookbook Besha Rodell files her last restaurant review for LA Weekly and Mia Wasilevich explains how to turn wild plants into great food. Jonathan Gold samples the Peruvian fare at Rosaliné and Gustavo Arellano talks up Burritos La Palma in the OC. Plus: A recipe from Kris Yenbamroong’s Night + Market cookbook, Korean-Mexican food in Seoul and apples at the market.
The Silk Road show We devote the bulk of this week’s show to food eaten on the ancient Silk Road. Caroline Eden starts us off in Samarkand, then Naomi Duguid and Yasmin Khan take us to Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Kurdistan and Iran. Back on our side of the pond, Harvest Public Media’s Kristofor Husted reports on the herbicide dicamba, Jonathan Gold eats at Delicious Food Corner and we shop for fresh kale at the market.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Dinner and a movie, Bollywood-style According to “Bollywood Kitchen” author Sri Rao, those who favor the flavor explosions found in traditional Indian cuisine will also be fans of over-the-top Bollywood cinema. Try his recipe for chicken korma and enjoy, while “Bajirao Mastani” plays on the screen. Read More