Jonathan Gold dines at Howlin' Rays in Chinatown

Once southern food was hard to find at restaurants north of the Mason-Dixon line. Now restaurants all over the country are serving grits, collard greens and waffles piled high with fried chicken. At a strip mall in LA's Chinatown, Howlin' Rays is drawing crowds with boxes of bright paprika-colored, mouth-numbingly hot Nashville-style chicken. Jonathan Gold weighs in on why this hot chicken joint is worth the wait.

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It’s up to you how spicy you want your chicken sandwich at Howlin’ Rays.
The fried chicken comes on a soft bun with slaw, some great briny pickles and Mississippi
comeback sauce. (Photo by Stan Lee)

Howlin' Rays: 727 N. Broadway #128 LA, CA 90012 (213) 935-8399