FROM THIS EPISODE
Zoe Nathan of Huckleberry Cafe and Rustic Canyon were at the market. She's buying apples and passion fruit. The uglier the passion fruit, the better, says Zoe. She scoops out the flesh, purees it and then strains it.
She's also buying kale and is making a kale soup. Saute yellow onions with garlic. Add butternut squash along with herbs like thyme, sage and rosemary. When it's nice and soft, add the kale. Add cooked chick peas and veggie stock and then let it simmer.
Bob Polito is a citrus grower from Valley Center. Valencia oranges are at their peak right now. They are perfect for making juice. Choose a larger fruit if you're going to eat the orange as it will peel much easier. Tangerines will be at the markets around Thanksgiving.
On Thursday, November 5, the Santa Monica Farmers Market is hosting a panel discussion on "Eating the Whole Farm." More info here. Evan Kleiman will be moderating a panel that includes Phil McGrath and Ben Ford of Ford's Filling Station.
Music Break: Spark Plug [Thrash Mix] by The Nitwoods
For decades, the Montrose Chemical Corporation in Torrance was dumping DDT, which they manufactured, at PCB's into the sewer system. The chemicals ultimately flowed out to sea and ended up in the sediment of Palos Verdes Shelf.
The EPA settled with Montrose and several other chemical companies and cleanup efforts have been in effect for the last ten years.
Carmen White is a Remedial Project Manager for the EPA. Dr. Susan Klasing is a toxicologist with the Fish and Water Quality Evaluation Section of the Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment, California Environmental Protection Agency. Read more about fish advisories for the area here. For maximum safety, they recommend eating on the fillet, not the whole fish as pollutants are concentrated in the fat.
We first met Bompas & Parr when they told us about their Breathable Cocktail. Sam Bompas and Harry Parr are artists in London who frequently work with food as a medium. They are also known as the Jelly Mongers because of their elaborate architectural models made of jello.
Bompas and Parr are also working on an Architectural Punchbowl. They plan to create a punch bowl in a building. It will be so big, that you can row a boat across it. They have a contest, open to the public, to find a recipe for the punch.
Music Break: Gnu Bossa Nova by Baja Marimba Band
Until recently, Ruth Reichl was the Editor-in-Chief at Gourmet, the now-defunct food magazine. Publisher Conde Naste still plans on publishing cookbooks, and their most recent is Gourmet Today: More than 1000 All-New Recipes for the Contemporary Kitchen.
Music Break: Green Onions by George Semper
Dia de los Muertos is a two-day Mexican Holiday celebrated on November 1 and 2. It's an occasion to celebrate and remember the dead. Altars are created in the home and sweets, drinks and sugar skulls are put out for the returning spirits. Tamales are also popular during the holiday.
Barbara Sibley is the author, with Margaritte Malfy of Antojitos: Festive and Flavorful Mexican Small Plates. They are partners at La Palapa Cocina Mexicana in New York.
Tequila y Sangrita
8 oz freshly squeezed orange juice (about 3 oranges)
8 oz tomato juice
4 oz pomegranate juice
4 oz bottled Salsa Valentina*
2 tsp kosher salt
Tequila, for serving
A day ahead of serving, in a large glass pitcher or other nonreactive container, mix together the orange juice, tomato juice, pomegranate juice, salsa, and salt. Cover and refrigerate. (The mixture will keep for up to 1 week.)
Just before serving, stir the mixture. Pour into shot glasses and serve with shots of tequila.
*Cook’s Note: These hot sauces are sold in Mexican stores and on the Internet at www.mexgrocer.com, as well as other sites selling Mexican ingredients.
Tamales de Pollo Verdes
30 corn husks*
2 cups masa harina for tamales*
1 cup high-quality lard, at room temperature
1 tsp kosher salt
7 cups tepid water
3 cups Cooked Tomatillo Salsa
1 1/2 cups shredded cooked chicken
Put the corn husks in a shallow dish, add hot water to cover, and let soak for 1 hour. Drain and rinse to remove any silk. Cover the husks with a damp kitchen towel and set aside.
While the husks are soaking, in a small stockpot, use your hands to mix together the masa harina, lard, and salt. Add the water and mix with your hands or a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and the consistency of heavy cream.
Put the pot over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly, for about 20 minutes, or until the masa is no longer lumpy and is shiny and almost translucent. Remove from the heat and cover.
Tear 1 husk lengthwise into strips about ½ inch wide. To shape each tamale, put a corn husk in the palm of your hand. The base (or “navel”) of the leaf should reach your wrist. Place in the hollow of the husk, in the following order: 1 tablespoon salsa, 2 tablespoons masa, 1 additional tablespoon salsa, and 1 tablespoon shredded chicken. Loosely (so there is room to expand) fold the sides of the corn husk into the center, overlapping them slightly. Fold the narrow end of the husk over the seam and then fold the broad end of the husk over the top. Tie a husk strip loosely around the center. Repeat to make 24 tamales total. (You may have masa left over.)
Pour water into the bottom of a large steamer and put the steamer tray in place. Make sure the water does not touch the bottom of the tray. Stand the tamales vertically in the steam with the “navel” end facing upward. (If the tamales will not fit without crowding, steam in 2 batches or 2 steamers.) Lay plastic wrap over the tamales (it helps form a tight seal), and then cover the steamer tightly.
Bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about 1 hour. Check the pan occasionally and ad more boiling water if the water threatens to boil away. To test for doneness, remove 1 tamale from the center of the rack and unwrap the husk. If the dough pulls away easily and is firm and smooth, the tamales are ready.
To serve, lay 1 or 2 tamales on each plate and serve at once. Let diners unwrap their own tamales at the table.
*Cook’s Note: The best corn husks are thin and flexible, with an intact “navel” or circle, where the leaf was attached to the ear. We need only 25 husks for the tamales and ties but the husks tear easily, so it is good to have extras on hand. Buy Maseca brand masa harina for tamales (Maseca is the most common brand of masa harina), which is more coarsely ground than the regular masa harina used for tortillas. If you cannot find it, the latter can be used.)
Music Break: The Safecracker by The City Champs
Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy
Gustavo Arellano is the Food Editor for the OC Weekly. He also writes the popular Ask a Mexican Column. For cuisine from the Michoacan region of Mexico, Gustavo likes Las Brisas de Apatzingan in Santa Ana. He likes the morisqueta, a kind of rice pilaf, and the huchepo, which is a kind of tamal. His favorite thing on the menu is the green pozole stew.Las Brisas de Apatzingan
1524 S. Flower St., Santa Ana, CA(714) 545-5584.
See all of Gustavo's recommendations on the Good Food Restaurant Map.
View Good Food Restaurant Map in a larger map
Pie Lab is a community space in Greensboro, Alabama where people can gather for conversation over a slice of pie. It was started by a group of designers through Project M, a summer program for young designers to develop ideas to help their communities. Amanda Buck is one of the designers at PieLab. She contributed a fig and goat cheese pie to Good Food's Eat-a-Pie-a-Day Project.
More From Good Food
The Great Tortilla Tournament, nixtamalization, and Guerrilla Tacos Let’s talk tortillas! Gustavo Arellano announces KCRW’s first-ever Great Tortilla Tournament, to choose the best tortilla in LA out of a bracket of 64. Bill Esparza talks tortilla makers in the L.A. area. And did you know that inside your tortilla is an ancient process, perfected over centuries? Also, L.A. Taco’s Daniel Hernandez recalls a Guadalajara taco crawl with Jonathan Gold.
Joël Robuchon, restaurant lines, and Jonathan Gold on N.W.A. This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.
Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Why Gustavo is doing a Great Tortilla Tournament for KCRW It’s the perennial question: Corn or flour? We’re putting 64 Southern California tortillas head-to-head in our #MasaMadness bracket to see who will win the Golden Tortilla trophy. Gustavo Arellano fills us in on all the details. Read More
Joël Robuchon: My introduction to the refined world of luxury fine dining In 2014, Evan Kleiman took a road trip to Las Vegas with Jonathan Gold. The highlight of the trip by far was an opulent dinner at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand: the most luxurious meal she had ever experienced up until that point. In honor of the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon who passed away this week, we’re resharing Evan’s 2014 reflection on that unforgettable meal. Read More