Photo by Rob Sinclair
FROM THIS EPISODE
Since his inauguration, President Trump has hit the ground running. We've been wondering whether food and farm policies are next on the chopping block, so we tapped Politico Pro's senior food and ag reporter Helena Bottemiller Evich to weigh in.
Music: "Eat Alone Die Alone"
The L.A. City Council voted to legalize street vending this week. Though it's been against the law for decades, many Angelenos have turned a blind-eye as thousands of undocumented immigrants have been risking deportation to sell bacon-wrapped hot dogs, fresh produce and, of course, tacos all over Los Angeles. We asked Sarah Portnoy to give us a history lesson on street vending. She is an assistant professor at the University of Southern California and has just published a new book, Food, Health and Culture in Latino L.A.
Music: "Inside Job (Tal M Klein Remix)"
Chips and dips are typically the first to arrive and the last to leave any Super Bowl gathering. But Los Angeles Magazine restaurant critic Patric Kuh believes there is no better way to emulate the defensive line than with a healthy selection of sausages. Ahead of Super Bowl Sunday, Kuh throws out a dozen spots in LA where you can stock up. See pictures of some of his favorite links, wieners and brats on our Good Food Facebook page.
Music: "Bali Hai" and "Begin the Beguine" by Hugo Montenegro
It's not every day Jonathan Gold says a beer-battered tofu burger tastes “meaty” and drips like beef. Take a bite at chef Nick Erven's new vegan restaurant in Santa Monica, along with some fried date date pickles and sunchokes with ketchup-romesco sauce. You won't be disappointed. Read Jonathan's full review of Erven on the LA Times website.
Beer-battered tofu burger, photo courtesy of Socially You
Erven: 514–516 Santa Monica Boulevard, Santa Monica, CA 90401 | (310) 260-2255
Music: "Fine, Fine (Instrumental)" by Josh Rouse & The Long Vacations
At the Santa Monica Farmers' Market, Laura Avery talks to Paul Thurston of McGrath Family Farm about his organic French knot, purple haze and Yellowstone carrot varieties. Thurston likes his roasted in olive oil and butter with rutabagas, beets, potatoes and garlic. At Little Fatty, chef David Kuo pickles the carrots he buys to add color, flavor and crunch to his zhajiang mian. "Zhajiang mian translates to 'fried sauce [noodles].' So in that tradition, we caramelize the black bean sauce and sweet flour sauce with the pork and onions to even further develop those umami flavors. I use fresh wheat noodles, cooked until al dente and top the dish off with refreshing cucumber ribbons, pickled julienned carrots and chiles. The raw vegetables, combined with the acid, balance the richness of the meat sauce." Find Kuo's recipe on the Good Food blog.
Music: "La Matriarca (Bossa Nova)" by Armando Trovaioli and "Low Tide" by Freddy King
Chef Virgilio Martinez's restaurant, Central, has been voted one of the best places to eat in the world by the British magazine, Restaurant. The menu is an exploration of Peru's many altitudes and ecosystems and of foraged native ingredients. "I live in Lima by the sea. Then we have the Andes. Then we have the Amazon. It's not a flat Amazon, it's an Amazon with altitudes that creates different micro-climates, too, lots of them." Martinez recently published a new cookbook named after his restaurant.
Music: "Tropical River" and "Truck Driver," both by Piero Umiliani
More From Good Food
The Great Tortilla Tournament, nixtamalization, and Guerrilla Tacos Let’s talk tortillas! Gustavo Arellano announces KCRW’s first-ever Great Tortilla Tournament, to choose the best tortilla in LA out of a bracket of 64. Bill Esparza talks tortilla makers in the L.A. area. And did you know that inside your tortilla is an ancient process, perfected over centuries? Also, L.A. Taco’s Daniel Hernandez recalls a Guadalajara taco crawl with Jonathan Gold.
Joël Robuchon, restaurant lines, and Jonathan Gold on N.W.A. This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.
Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Why Gustavo is doing a Great Tortilla Tournament for KCRW It’s the perennial question: Corn or flour? We’re putting 64 Southern California tortillas head-to-head in our #MasaMadness bracket to see who will win the Golden Tortilla trophy. Gustavo Arellano fills us in on all the details. Read More
Joël Robuchon: My introduction to the refined world of luxury fine dining In 2014, Evan Kleiman took a road trip to Las Vegas with Jonathan Gold. The highlight of the trip by far was an opulent dinner at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand: the most luxurious meal she had ever experienced up until that point. In honor of the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon who passed away this week, we’re resharing Evan’s 2014 reflection on that unforgettable meal. Read More