Photo: Santa Barbara spot prawn (Camellia Tse)
FROM THIS EPISODE
Shrimp is the most popular seafood eaten in the US. Americans consume 1.3 billion pounds of it each year, which amounts to roughly four pounds per person. But very little shrimp eaten here comes from local waters: Thailand dominates the market and half of the country's shrimp exports end up on American tables.
Two years ago, a team of Associated Press reporters discovered forced labor and human trafficking in the supply chain. The AP has been publishing the findings since then in a remarkable multimedia series called "Seafood from slaves." The project was awarded a Pulitzer Prize earlier this year.
Martha Mendoza, a national writer for the AP, takes us back to the moment when she and her colleagues decided to focus their collective investigative reporting lens on the Thai shrimp industry. Tune into our show in the weeks ahead to get the scoop on her next big exposé in the series, to be published later this month.
Music: "Cañamo Medico" by EarthRise Sound System and "Green Arrow" by Yo La Tengo
The downside to knowing more about where your food comes from is that nagging moral sense telling you it's time to make a change. So if we want to eat shrimp that is grown sustainably and locally, what are our options? We get some answers from Paul Greenberg, a journalist who can make a book on seafood as engaging as any mystery novel. He wrote the James Beard Award-winning book Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food and American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood.
While we're on the subject of sustainable seafood, head to the Good Food blog to see what's for sale at Cape Seafood and Provisions. Michael Cimarusti, the chef and co-owner at Providence and Connie & Ted's, opened Cape Seafood in West Hollywood with his team in March. We're still thinking about the Santa Barbara spot prawns cooked in piles of 500-degree kosher salt and rosemary that culinary director Brandon Gray cooked for us at the shop. Outstanding.
Music: "Bus Stop Boxer" by The Eels
Live leeches, cow brains and dried manure. Matthew Biancaniello ate them all before finding his way to LA's craft cocktail movement. Now he forages and scours farmers markets to source 15-ingredient Bloody Marys and concoctions that feature uni and emu eggs. Biancaniello's favorite recipes are compiled in his book, Eat Your Drink. Find a recipe for his “Lost in Laos” cocktail on the Good Food blog.
Music: "I Mean You" by Thelonious Monk and "The Message" by Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five
Nothing says Labor Day like BBQ. Kansas City, the Carolinas and Memphis have all got their own styles. Then there's Texas. The Lone Star State has at least four kinds of 'Q all by itself, says Robb Walsh, three-time James Beard Award-winner and member of Foodways Texas. He breaks down the styles for us, clues us into why BBQ is eaten on Juneteenth and on how Upton Sinclair's The Jungle changed the lives of pit masters everywhere. A second edition of his Legends of Texas Barbecue bible is available wherever books are sold.
Music: "Texas Flood" by Stevie Ray Vaughn
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Joël Robuchon, restaurant lines, and Jonathan Gold on N.W.A. This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.
Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
BONUS: Classic Jonathan Gold on KCRW In this bonus episode, we're resharing some of the late Jonathan Gold's classic segments on KCRW from over the past 20 years. These conversations had a tremendous impact on LA’s dining scene, helping Angelenos to get out of their silos to explore new neighborhoods and cuisines.
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