FROM THIS EPISODE
You may not think the Secretary of Agriculture has anything to do with you. But everything related to food in this country — down to the cost of produce at the market and the price of a steak dinner at your favorite restaurant — falls under the purview of the Ag secretary. The President has chosen former governor of Georgia, Sonny Perdue, to carry out his new agenda in the wake of this week’s hotly contested withdrawal from the Paris Treaty. We called Harvest Public Media’s Investigations Editor, Peggy Lowe, to find out how rural America is reacting to the big changes coming to crop subsidies, immigration, school nutrition programs, food stamps and more.
The last time we spoke with the world’s most famous butcher, Dario Cecchini, he shared his story of abandoning his dream of becoming a veterinarian to enter the family business. Antica Macelleria Cecchini in the small Tuscan village of Panzano is a destination for epicures who revere nose-to-tail cooking. Cecchini now has an ambitious new concept in the works. Inspired by a recent trip to Brazil, he plans to turn frequently overlooked forequarter cuts into delicious — yet affordable — dishes like Chianti ramen. The highly anticipated Cecchini Panini will open its doors in March of 2018.
Man, meat, fire. What could be more primal than the act of grilling a steak? For that, we turn to Richard H. Turner. He’s the co-owner of Turner & George, a rare breed meat merchant based in London, and the executive chef of Hawksmoor. In 2015, he took home the city prize for best steak. Get tips from Mr. Meatopia himself for everything from barbecuing to butchering bovines, buying quality cuts of beef and recipes in his newly published “PRIME: The Beef Cookbook.”
Richard H. Turner
In the 1970s, making smoked salmon mousse was a snap. A touch of cream, a little salmon, plus a few drops of liquid smoke. But in much of the barbecue community, the smoky liquid fix is considered sacrilege. Bottles of the flavoring agent have been on the market since 1898, but this quick fix is the antithesis to the “low and slow” ethos preached by barbecue purists. Food writer Matthew Sedacca delves into the history and controversy associated with liquid smoke for Eater.
There’s no shortage of Sichuan restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley, where a new host of trendy hotspots offers more options to adventurous eaters than just the tongue-numbing, ma la sensation found at places like Chengdu Taste or Szechuan Impression. This week, LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold sits down to a 9-course tasting tour at Chengdu Impression, the newest outpost of a Chinese restaurant group based in Sichuan’s capital city. Read his full LA Times review here.
Panda dumpling. (Photo courtesy of Sichuan Impression)
Chengdu Impression: 21 East Huntington Drive, Arcadia, CA 91006 | (626) 462-9999
Long before anyone realized that gluten-sensitivity was an autoimmune disorder, Elisabeth Prueitt endured the daily discomforts of developing the pastry recipes that would turn Tartine Bakery & Cafe into San Francisco's most popular destination for the carb-loving, all-day brunch crowd. It wasn't until she switched to naturally leavened breads made from heirloom grains that Prueitt's symptoms finally subsided. More than a decade later, she and her husband, Chad Robertson, are expanding to a fourth Bay Area location, with their largest retail operation yet coming to Downtown LA’s Arts District later this year. Prueitt’s new book, “Tartine All Day,” shares seasonal recipes and techniques for the modern home cook. Find a recipe for Prueitt’s buckwheat crêpes on the “Good Food” blog.
There's nothing more beguiling than food that speaks of place. At Truss & Twine in Palm Springs, chef Michael Beckman gets hyper-local with nopales from the Santa Monica Farmers Market that he uses to make a cactus confit that he pairs with goat cheese dusted in dehydrated bougainvillea powder. Farmer Mario Trevino of Trevino Farms in Lompoc, California, says his hearty succulents may be prickly, but nopales aren’t picky about the soil they’re grown in. The paddles grow year-round but are the most tender in the springtime. He uses the cactus pears that come in during the fall to make agua fresca. Find a recipe for Beckman’s cactus confit on the “Good Food” blog.
More From Good Food
Joël Robuchon, restaurant lines, and Jonathan Gold on N.W.A. This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.
Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
BONUS: Classic Jonathan Gold on KCRW In this bonus episode, we're resharing some of the late Jonathan Gold's classic segments on KCRW from over the past 20 years. These conversations had a tremendous impact on LA’s dining scene, helping Angelenos to get out of their silos to explore new neighborhoods and cuisines.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Why Gustavo is doing a Great Tortilla Tournament for KCRW It’s the perennial question: Corn or flour? We’re putting 64 Southern California tortillas head-to-head in our #MasaMadness bracket to see who will win the Golden Tortilla trophy. Gustavo Arellano fills us in on all the details. Read More
Joël Robuchon: My introduction to the refined world of luxury fine dining In 2014, Evan Kleiman took a road trip to Las Vegas with Jonathan Gold. The highlight of the trip by far was an opulent dinner at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand: the most luxurious meal she had ever experienced up until that point. In honor of the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon who passed away this week, we’re resharing Evan’s 2014 reflection on that unforgettable meal. Read More