FROM THIS EPISODE
You may not think the Secretary of Agriculture has anything to do with you. But everything related to food in this country — down to the cost of produce at the market and the price of a steak dinner at your favorite restaurant — falls under the purview of the Ag secretary. The President has chosen former governor of Georgia, Sonny Perdue, to carry out his new agenda in the wake of this week’s hotly contested withdrawal from the Paris Treaty. We called Harvest Public Media’s Investigations Editor, Peggy Lowe, to find out how rural America is reacting to the big changes coming to crop subsidies, immigration, school nutrition programs, food stamps and more.
The last time we spoke with the world’s most famous butcher, Dario Cecchini, he shared his story of abandoning his dream of becoming a veterinarian to enter the family business. Antica Macelleria Cecchini in the small Tuscan village of Panzano is a destination for epicures who revere nose-to-tail cooking. Cecchini now has an ambitious new concept in the works. Inspired by a recent trip to Brazil, he plans to turn frequently overlooked forequarter cuts into delicious — yet affordable — dishes like Chianti ramen. The highly anticipated Cecchini Panini will open its doors in March of 2018.
Man, meat, fire. What could be more primal than the act of grilling a steak? For that, we turn to Richard H. Turner. He’s the co-owner of Turner & George, a rare breed meat merchant based in London, and the executive chef of Hawksmoor. In 2015, he took home the city prize for best steak. Get tips from Mr. Meatopia himself for everything from barbecuing to butchering bovines, buying quality cuts of beef and recipes in his newly published “PRIME: The Beef Cookbook.”
Richard H. Turner
In the 1970s, making smoked salmon mousse was a snap. A touch of cream, a little salmon, plus a few drops of liquid smoke. But in much of the barbecue community, the smoky liquid fix is considered sacrilege. Bottles of the flavoring agent have been on the market since 1898, but this quick fix is the antithesis to the “low and slow” ethos preached by barbecue purists. Food writer Matthew Sedacca delves into the history and controversy associated with liquid smoke for Eater.
There’s no shortage of Sichuan restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley, where a new host of trendy hotspots offers more options to adventurous eaters than just the tongue-numbing, ma la sensation found at places like Chengdu Taste or Szechuan Impression. This week, LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold sits down to a 9-course tasting tour at Chengdu Impression, the newest outpost of a Chinese restaurant group based in Sichuan’s capital city. Read his full LA Times review here.
Panda dumpling. (Photo courtesy of Sichuan Impression)
Chengdu Impression: 21 East Huntington Drive, Arcadia, CA 91006 | (626) 462-9999
Long before anyone realized that gluten-sensitivity was an autoimmune disorder, Elisabeth Prueitt endured the daily discomforts of developing the pastry recipes that would turn Tartine Bakery & Cafe into San Francisco's most popular destination for the carb-loving, all-day brunch crowd. It wasn't until she switched to naturally leavened breads made from heirloom grains that Prueitt's symptoms finally subsided. More than a decade later, she and her husband, Chad Robertson, are expanding to a fourth Bay Area location, with their largest retail operation yet coming to Downtown LA’s Arts District later this year. Prueitt’s new book, “Tartine All Day,” shares seasonal recipes and techniques for the modern home cook. Find a recipe for Prueitt’s buckwheat crêpes on the “Good Food” blog.
There's nothing more beguiling than food that speaks of place. At Truss & Twine in Palm Springs, chef Michael Beckman gets hyper-local with nopales from the Santa Monica Farmers Market that he uses to make a cactus confit that he pairs with goat cheese dusted in dehydrated bougainvillea powder. Farmer Mario Trevino of Trevino Farms in Lompoc, California, says his hearty succulents may be prickly, but nopales aren’t picky about the soil they’re grown in. The paddles grow year-round but are the most tender in the springtime. He uses the cactus pears that come in during the fall to make agua fresca. Find a recipe for Beckman’s cactus confit on the “Good Food” blog.
More From Good Food
Massimo Bottura's purpose, 'Autentico,' and the struggle to eliminate tipping What makes a meal authentic? Rolando Beramendi thinks it’s about capturing the culture by using imported ingredients. The use of an old recipe can also connect immigrant cooks with their families’ food traditions. Chef Massimo Bottura has a plan to reclaim unwanted food—and along with it, people’s dignity. Also, Jonathan Gold enjoys the vibrancy of El Coraloense’s aguachile.
Fuchsia Dunlop's LA trip, 'Chinese Soul Food,' Tucson's foodways Our annual pie contest went off without a hitch! Now, meet the winners. Tired of all the sweet stuff? We’ll dig into LA’s Sichuan food scene with Fuchsia Dunlop and also with Jonathan Gold during his update on the LA Times Food Bowl. Hsiao-Ching Chou has some tips on cooking Chinese food for the first time. Also, find spring onions at the market this week.
An LA pie crawl, rhubarb, and composting What’s the best slice of pie in LA? Pie Contest judge Isa Fabro and reporter Abbie Fentress Swanson are on the hunt. Rhubarb is a favorite pie filling, but its sweetness isn’t always easy to coax out. Jonathan Gold reviews Native in Santa Monica. How can composting help Angelenos control their food waste? Gillian Ferguson takes a look at mezcal production. Also, there’s fresh Thai lemon basil at the market.
Melissa Clark, clay pot rice, and the LA Food Bowl New York Times columnist Melissa Clark explains the pressure cooker craze. Culinary scientist Ali Bouzari says cooking boils down to eight essential ingredients. Looking for crispy rice in the San Gabriel Valley? Jonathan Gold has just the place. Gustavo Arellano remembers Latino supermarket maven Doña Teresa Reynoso. Also, a preview of the LA Times Food Bowl.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Well-traveled recipes: Mom’s mole Since Luis Chavez immigrated to the U.S., he hasn’t been able to return to Mexico to visit his family. But he uses his mother’s mole recipe to feel close to his heritage and share the flavors of his home with new friends. Read More