Photo: Ariana Lindquist
FROM THIS EPISODE
We devote the first part of the show to Italian food, starting at Officine Brera in LA's Arts District. The restaurant is the brainchild of chef Angelo Auriana and restaurateur Matteo Ferdinandi and the menu is focused on the Northern Italian cuisine eaten in Brera, a district in Milan. Jonathan Gold, Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer for the LA Times, recommends the frisceu, the lardo al pepe, the pisarei e fasö, the bassa padana risotto, the cannelloni with braised beef shank and bechamel, and the semifreddo with honey and amarena cherries. For Evan, the risotto alla Milanese with bone marrow is "perfection," and that's not a word she uses lightly when it comes to Italian food.
1331 East 6th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90021
While you're on our blog, check out Evan's post on the Carbonara-gate scandal that broke out this week. You'll find instructions there for her version of how to make the Roman classic.
Music: "Ah! Melody" by Serge Gainsbourg and "Soul Dressing" by Booker T. & the MGs
Carbonara, cannelloni and risotto are just a few examples of dishes brought to the US by Italian immigrants. In his new book The Ethnic Restaurateur," Krishnendu Ray explores how immigrants have created and changed the American palate. He is chair of NYU's Department of Nutrition, Food Studies and Public Health. Be sure to tune in all the way to the end of the interview to hear Krishnendu's reference to Hegel: "The owl of Minerva takes flight at dusk."
Music: "Boléro" by Pink Martini
Next, we travel to the oldest state in the Arab world. Oman is part of the Gulf oil economy, yet it was the food of the sultanate that seduced Felicia Campbell. Her new cookbook, The Food of Oman, is an unexpected look at a cuisine with many flavors and ancient roots.
Campbell is executive features editor for the Times of Oman. Head to the Good Food blog to find her recipe for Omani lentil soup.
Music: "The Stoop" (Instrumental) by Little Jackie
Artichokes are in season now in Southern California. Spanish settlers introduced these spiny plants to California in the early 1900's. They took to the damp cool coastal parts of the state so remarkably that today 99% of artichokes sold in the US are grown here.
It takes one year for an artichoke to grow. At Smith Farms, the harvest starts in late February. Leave them in the fields too long under the hot California sun and the artichokes turn into inedible flowers. This intel comes from McKay Smith, who sells artichokes at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market from March until May.
Laura Avery also talks with Tony Esnault this week at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market. He's the chef and owner at Church & State in LA's Arts District and at the newly opened Spring restaurant Downtown. Esnault says the Smith Farms purple thornless artichokes are one of the best deals at the market now. While many fans of artichokes boil or steam them, in France's Loire Valley where Esnault grew up, artichokes are eaten raw with mustard vinaigrette. Find his recipe for Artichoke Barigoule on the Good Food blog.
Music: "Hearts Are Like Flowers" by Jacobites
These days it's rare to be at a dinner party where everyone eats everything, since food allergies and different dietary preferences abound. To take the stress out of cooking for a crowd, Anna Thomas has written the new cookbook Vegan, Vegetarian, Omnivore: Dinner for Everyone at the Table. She shares her recipe for poblano chiles that can be made veggie, vegan or with meat on the Good Food blog.
Music: "ABC's" (album Instrumental)
We end our show at an Orange County deli called Cho Tam Bien in Little Saigon. Gustavo Arellano, editor of the OC Weekly and host of KCRW's Orange County Line, recommends the duck porridge, goat curry and lemongrass pork sausage. Wow. We'll make sure to come hungry.
Cho Tam Bien
9906 Westminster Avenue, Suite B
Garden Grove, CA 92844
Music: "Porcelain" by Moby
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Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
BONUS: Classic Jonathan Gold on KCRW In this bonus episode, we're resharing some of the late Jonathan Gold's classic segments on KCRW from over the past 20 years. These conversations had a tremendous impact on LA’s dining scene, helping Angelenos to get out of their silos to explore new neighborhoods and cuisines.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Why Gustavo is doing a Great Tortilla Tournament for KCRW It’s the perennial question: Corn or flour? We’re putting 64 Southern California tortillas head-to-head in our #MasaMadness bracket to see who will win the Golden Tortilla trophy. Gustavo Arellano fills us in on all the details. Read More
Joël Robuchon: My introduction to the refined world of luxury fine dining In 2014, Evan Kleiman took a road trip to Las Vegas with Jonathan Gold. The highlight of the trip by far was an opulent dinner at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand: the most luxurious meal she had ever experienced up until that point. In honor of the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon who passed away this week, we’re resharing Evan’s 2014 reflection on that unforgettable meal. Read More