Tasting menus are bullsh*t (except when they're not)

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When does eating become punishment? As more chefs move to lengthy fixed menus with bills that might very well cost your monthly rent, the decision to dine at restaurants with tasting menus has become a difficult one. Esquire's food and drinks editor, Jeff Gordinier, looks at the pros and cons of tasting menus in his recent article, “Tasting menus are bullsh*t (except when they’re not).”