Photo courtesy of Mozza
FROM THIS EPISODE
Live leeches, cow brains and dried manure. Matthew Biancaniello ate them all before finding his way to LA's craft cocktail movement. Now he forages and scours farmers markets to source 15-ingredient Bloody Marys and concoctions that feature uni and emu eggs. Biancaniello's favorite recipes are compiled in the new book, Eat Your Drink. Find a recipe for his “Lost in Laos” cocktail on the Good Food blog.
Music: "I Mean You" by Thelonious Monk and "The Message" by Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five
While we're on the subject of local food, let's spend a moment on treviso. The white-veined magenta radicchio is in the chicory family and can be found at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market now. Romeo Coleman grows it year-round at Coleman Family Farms in Carpinteria. He gives Laura Avery the skinny on best growing practices and his preferred way to eat the leafy vegetable: cooked in bacon fat and smothered with bleu cheese.
Chef Nick Ervan, says the slightly bitter taste of treviso punches up the flavor in the salads on his menu at Fundamental LA. He soaks it overnight in a sauce of vinegar, black fermented garlic and soy sauce before serving treviso warm with cotija cheese and peppadew peppers atop a little something he calls green goddess. Ervan says when you dig in, the salad tastes like a pizza. Just as intrigued as we are? Find the recipe on the Good Food blog.
Music: "Spinning Wheel" by Wade Marcus
Rosé has a star-studded following that includes Brangelina and Josh Ostrovsky (aka The Fat Jewish on Instagram). As we usher in another season of this crisp pink wine, we ask Lou Amdur of Lou Wine Shop and Tastings in Los Feliz if rosé lives up to all the hype.
Music: "Time of the Season" by The Zombies
If you've never had one, a spritz is a refreshing cocktail of prosecco, bitter liqueur and soda often taken before a meal in Italy. Behind the wheel of a Fiat, writers Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau toured the spritz trail in Northern Italy to learn how this classic cocktail was born and how it came to symbolize la dolce vita in Italy. Their new book is Spritz: Italy's Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes.
Music: "J. Shivers Theme" by Zongamin
In many parts of Italy, a traditional meal is not complete without an amaro. The bittersweet smoky after-dinner digestivo is made from herbs, roots, flowers, fruit and alcohol. Fifty amari stock the bar at Mozza. Beverage director Sarah Clarke walks us through her favorites.
Music: "Funky Nassau (Part II)" by The Beginning of the End
Like amari, bitters can be sipped neat or on the rocks. The digestif contains some combination of herbs, bark, roots, fruit, water and alcohol and is a key ingredient in countless cocktails we love, from the Manhattan to the Negroni. We learn from Mark Bitterman that there's no shortage of bitters on the market. In between bites of potato chips, he sampled 500 of them for his latest book Bitterman's Field Guide to Bitters and Amari.
Music: "Wanaoh" by Black Heat
What happy hour would be complete without noodles and dumplings to soak up the booze? Enter Chungsil Hongsil, a new restaurant in Koreatown. Chungsil Hongsil is the Los Angeles branch of a chain of noodle and dumpling shops that first opened its doors in South Korea in the 1960's. The restaurant name refers to the blue and red threads used in Korean wedding ceremonies, according to Jonathan Gold, Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer for the LA Times. The only speed-dating we'll be doing is with the cold buckwheat noodles dipped in anchovy broth and the steamed dumplings filled with minced pork and vegetables. So much tasty food, so little time and stomach space.
338 S. Western Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90020
See how these dumplings are lovingly constructed on the Good Food blog, read the review Jonathan wrote of Chungsil Hongsil for the LA Times and text the words "Good Food" to 69866 to subscribe to our weekly restaurant recommendations.
Music: "A Drinking Song" by Divine Comedy
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The Great Tortilla Tournament, nixtamalization, and Guerrilla Tacos Let’s talk tortillas! Gustavo Arellano announces KCRW’s first-ever Great Tortilla Tournament, to choose the best tortilla in LA out of a bracket of 64. Bill Esparza talks tortilla makers in the L.A. area. And did you know that inside your tortilla is an ancient process, perfected over centuries? Also, L.A. Taco’s Daniel Hernandez recalls a Guadalajara taco crawl with Jonathan Gold.
Joël Robuchon, restaurant lines, and Jonathan Gold on N.W.A. This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.
Omega-3s, 'Downtime' with the Redzepis, and zucchini ice cream Paul Greenberg discusses what the Omega-3 boom means for our planet and lives. Nadine Redzepi talks about cooking for culinary giants like her husband Rene Redzepi in ‘Downtime.’ Crafting a menu takes more than exceptional produce, says writer Diana Henry. Also, a tour and history of LA’s pan dulce scene. Plus: ‘City of Gold’ director remembers Jonathan Gold’s 1992 piece on the LA riots.
Remembering Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
Why Gustavo is doing a Great Tortilla Tournament for KCRW It’s the perennial question: Corn or flour? We’re putting 64 Southern California tortillas head-to-head in our #MasaMadness bracket to see who will win the Golden Tortilla trophy. Gustavo Arellano fills us in on all the details. Read More
Joël Robuchon: My introduction to the refined world of luxury fine dining In 2014, Evan Kleiman took a road trip to Las Vegas with Jonathan Gold. The highlight of the trip by far was an opulent dinner at Joël Robuchon in the MGM Grand: the most luxurious meal she had ever experienced up until that point. In honor of the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon who passed away this week, we’re resharing Evan’s 2014 reflection on that unforgettable meal. Read More