A zero-star rating for starred restaurant reviews

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A tale of two restaurants. The first is run by world-class butchers, where you see whole animals roasting over a fire pit, and seasonal vegetables are pulled from the nearby farmers market. It’s rated three stars. The second restaurant is a hipster taco joint. Cheap asada tacos with homemade tortillas and buckets of agua fresca made with fresh fruit. It’s also got a three-star rating. Yes, there’s a problem with the starring system when it comes to restaurants. And one restaurant critic is taking a hard look at whether or not she wants to keep using it.