Feeding Baby; Holiday Eating; Doggy Treats
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Cynthia Epps coos about feeding baby and Will Clower tells us how to avoid having a belly like Santa Baby. Linda West Eckhardt is cooking for dogs and Eric Gower is breaking away with blenders. Nancy Zaslavsky finds the ultimate taco joint and Ellen Rose previews the best gift cookbooks for the season. John Scharffenberger, en expert on chocolate's true essence, gives us a splendid primer.
Market Report - Celery Root, Salsify ()
Laura Avery meets up with chef and Good Food friend Jean François Méteigner of La Cachette restaurant. Jean Francois describes the underappreciated vegetables: salsify and celeriac.
Salsify is a vegetable whose root and leaves are both edible. It is also referred to as white salsify, goatsbeard, vegetable oyster, and the oyster plant. The last two names reflect the root's taste, which when cooked, resembles an oyster. Salsify is a member of the sunflower family and its varieties are named French Blue Flowered and the Mammoth Sandwich Island. Its root is similar in appearance to a thin parsnip. Itt is long in length and is cream or white in color. From the top of the salsify, green, grass-like shoots emerge. These leaves are edible and can be used in salads.
Salsify and Oyster Soup
Makes 6 1/2 cups
This light but intensely oystery soup was inspired by a recipe from Joanne Hendricks, the proprietor of the eponymous vintage-cookbook store in New York City. Salsify is a root vegetable shaped like a skinny parsnip; it has blackish skin with white flesh and tastes a little like artichoke hearts. If you have trouble finding it (in fact, Carroll and Wingate had to ask architect Charles Renfro to bring some to Boston from New York), you can substitute Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes) or, as a last resort, the pedestrian potato.
* Juice of 1 lemon
* 3/4 pound salsify or Jerusalem artichokes
* 1/4 pound sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
* 1 large white onion, finely chopped
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 1/2 cup dry white wine
* 2 cups clam juice
* 1 cup water
* 4 thyme sprigs
* 1 cup heavy cream
* 2 dozen freshly shucked oysters, oyster liquor reserved
* Pinch of cayenne pepper
* 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1. Fill a medium bowl with cold water and add the lemon juice. Peel the salsify and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Add the salsify to the lemon water.
2. In a large saucepan, cook the bacon over moderate heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain; reserve 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat in the saucepan.
3. Add the onion to the saucepan and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Drain the salsify. Add it to the saucepan and season with salt and black pepper. Cover and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the salsify is almost tender, about 10 minutes. Add the wine to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the clam juice, water and thyme. Cover and simmer over moderately low heat until the salsify is tender, about 10 minutes longer.
4. Add the cream, oysters, oyster liquor and cayenne and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the oysters are just cooked through. Discard the thyme sprigs. Season the chowder with salt and black pepper and ladle into warmed bowls. Top with the bacon and parsley and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently before proceeding. (from FoodandWine.com)
Celeriac is a vegetable that is a member of the celery family, but only its root can be eaten. It is also known as celery root, knob celery, and turnip rooted celery, celeriac has a taste that is similar to a blend of celery and parsley. When purchasing fresh celeriac, you can identify the celeriac by its large, bulbous root that grows to an average of 3.5 inches in length. Rough green stalks surround this root, which is light brown in color. When selecting a celeriac, choose only those with firm and small to medium-sized roots. Selecting smaller roots is better because smaller roots produce a more flavorful root taste. Additionally, although celeriac stalks and leaves are typically not eaten, make sure that the celeriac you purchase has leaves that are green and that are not wilted.
Celery Root Soup
2 large celery roots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large yellow onion, peeled and finely diced
3 tablespoons olive oil or unsalted butter
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
1-2 teaspoons kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
8 tablespoons Spanish dry sherry
Whole cream to garnish, if desired
1. In large soup pot over low heat, slowly sweat onions and celery root in olive oil, stirring often, allowing the juices to come forth, about 20-30 minutes. If mixture is dry and sticking to the bottom, add more oil or butter, or a splash of stock.
2. Add stock. Simmer until thoroughly cooked, about 45 minutes. Remove from stove and purie in batches in a blender with most of parsley; season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. To serve, place a tablespoon of sherry in each bowl. Ladle soup into bowl and garnish with a swirl of cream, if desired, and a sprinkle of parsley. Serve immediately.
Music Break: The Rally - Sound Studio Orchestra
Stay Away from the Holiday Buffet ()
Dr. Will Clower, author of The Fat Fallacy, tells us how to keep from gaining weight during the holidays. Look for Dr. Will’s new book, “The French Don't Diet Plan : 10 Simple Steps to Stay Thin for Life”.
Music Break: Pinstripe - Skeewiff
Tacos in LA ()
Nancy Zaslavsky, author of A Cook’s Tour of Mexico, shares her favorite taco joint with Good Food. Nancy also runs culinary tours to Mexico. Visit her website or call 310-440-8877 for tour dates.
Los Cinco Puntos
3300 E. Brooklyn Place (at Lorena), L.A. 90063, 323-261-4084
Open M, T, T, F 8am-6pm; S-S 7am-6pm; Closed W
Nancy says “Los Cinco Puntos has been around since 1967 when the Sotelo family opened their East L.A. neighborhood grocery store. Since then, shelves of canned and dry goods have been shoved aside to make room for loyal aficionados waiting for tacos, tamales and other top-notch selections off a short menu.
Carnitas taco: Start with an aromatic, pat-patted-out-by-hand corn tortilla—thick and chewy—then load on carnitas—moist and crispy—the real deal, made here in a huge copper cauldron. Top with a splash of homemade chile d’arbol salsa and a squirt of lime juice. For 25-cents more, pop for fresh guacamole. Simply world-class. Since you’re already here, take home a dozen of those tortillas. Dine off the hood of your car in the parking lot.”
Music Break: The Bone (Part One) - Skeewiff
Blenders - Not Just for Smoothies ()
Eric Gower, author of the upcoming book, The Breakaway Cook (HarperCollins, appears in bookstores in Spring 2007), chats about his new blog and how the blender can become an essential tool in our kitchen.
His book, The Breakaway Japanese Kitchen, features his unique interpretations of modern Japanese cuisine. He writes regularly on food, cooking, and restaurants for a variety of US and Japanese publications. He went to Japan in 1988 after graduating with a degree in Oriental Languages (Japanese) from the University of California, Berkeley, and stayed for 15 years. He is also the author of Eric’s Kitchen, his first collection of recipes (in Japanese), and has edited and/or ghostwritten seven books by Japanese authors on international economics.
Music Break: The Big Score - The New Sounds
Feeding Baby ()
Cynthia Epps, an infant feeding specialist, discusses infant nutrition. She advocates making baby food at home and says that it doesn’t have to be as labor intensive as it sounds. Cynthia mentions two organic babyfood companies Bohemian Baby and Homemade Baby.
Cynthia has provided the following timetable:
Food Variety - Timetable
6 to 8 months
Peas, sweet potatoes, yams, summer squash, Yukon gold potatoes, red creamers
Commercially prepared baby carrots and green beans (to avoid nitrates)
Apple, bananas, pear, prune - purees
Any commercially prepared Stage 1 baby foods (read the labels to avoid added sugar)
Iron fortified baby rice cereal, then baby barley and/or oatmeal cereals.
Plain, unsweetened breakfast cereals - oatmeal, cream of rice
Oatios, Cherrios, Rice flakes (aim to start wheat breads/pastas after 10 mos)
Soft cooked rice, and/or pastas (wheat-free)
Plum, peach, kiwi, mango, papaya
Ripe, mashed avocados
Fresh vegetables: snow peas, zucchini, asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, and potatoes. Spinach, beets, green beans, winter squash, turnips, carrots, and collard greens should not be home prepared before 9 months due to the possibility of high nitrates. After 9 months, these foods may be steamed, pureed or offered in small soft pieces as part of a complete meal. These vegetables may be served at 8 months as commercially prepared Stage 2 baby foods (read the labels to avoid dairy).
Pureed meats, lean beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, and/or tofu
Egg yolks, only (hard boiled or scrambled without the whites)
10 to 12 months
Small, thin strips of raw fruits, such as apple or pear; chunks of watermelon, cantaloupe, melons, blueberries (mashed), pineapple
Tiny strips of soft steamed vegetables - red/green/yellow peppers, cucumbers, lettuce
Crackers, pasta, bread and bagels (wheat)
Small pieces of well cooked meats (shredded)
Beans – (one at a time, break the skin)
Goat’s milk, Soy milk, Rice milk; goat and soy yogurts/cheeses
Foods to avoid until after 12 months:
Oranges, grapefruits, strawberries, tomatoes (citrus family); egg whites
Whole cow’s milk yogurts/cheeses. Added salt or sugar, MSG, heavy seasonings
Chocolate and whole nuts - avoid peanuts and peanut butter until child is three years old
Fish and shellfish – shark, swordfish, fresh or canned tuna, king mackerel, tilefish, lake trout, bass, and crabs due to high levels or mercury and/or toxic chemical contamination.
Please note: if your child experiences cold symptoms after introducing any dairy foods, remove the dairy foods until after 12-14 months, then offer a serving and wait three days before offering again.
Cynthia Epps, MS, IBCLC
Board Certified Lactation Consultant
Infant Feeding Specialist
Music Break: The Sandpiper - The New Percussion Octet*
High-End Chocolate in America ()
John Scharffenberger steps into studio to discuss a new book from the Scharffenberger team, The Essence of Chocolate. He has shared a few recipes with us.
ROBERT'S FAVORITE FUDGY BROWNIES
Our chocolatier, Robert Steinberg, enjoys making these dense brownies. (Adapted from "Barron's brownies": Maida Heatter's Great American Desserts. Knopf, 1985)
8 ounces Scharffen Berger 70% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate, chopped
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 scant cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1/4 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
1/2 to 1 cup walnut halves or pieces
Adjust a rack 1/3 up from bottom of the oven and preheat to 325 F.
Butter or line with parchment paper an 8-inch square cake pan and set aside.
Heat the chocolate and butter in the top of a 2 1/2 to 3-quart double boiler or water bath. Stir occasionally until melted. If necessary, whisk to smooth. Remove from heat, stir in the salt, vanilla, and sugar. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring after each addition until incorporated.
Add the flour and stir briskly for about a minute until the mixture is smooth and shiny and comes away from the side of the pot. Stir in the nuts. Turn the mixture into the pan and smooth the top.
Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted gently into the center comes out moist, but free of batter.
Remove from the oven. Cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes sixteen 2-inch brownies.
CHOCOLATE ORBIT CAKE
Recipe by David Lebovitz (from Room For Dessert)
9.75 ounces Scharffen Berger 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate
7 ounces (two sticks minus 1 tablespoon) butter
1 cup sugar
Position the oven rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9 by 2-inch round cake pan, and line the inside with a round of parchment paper.
Set a large bowl over a pan of simmering water to create a double boiler. Cut the butter and chocolate into small pieces and put them in the bowl to melt, whisking occasionally.
Whisk together the eggs and sugar in another bowl. Thoroughly whisk in the melted chocolate.
Pour the chocolate batter into the cake pan. Place it in a larger baking pan, and pour in warm water to reach halfway up the sides of the cake pan. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, until the cake appears to have set and when you touch the center, your finger comes away clean.
Remove the cake from the water bath and cool completely before serving, plain or with gently whipped cream. This cake can be refrigerated for several days.
Serves 12 -14.
Music Break: Blues a go go - Lalo Schifring
Cookbooks for Christmas ()
The Cook's Library is a great resource for Los Angeles, 8373 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA
Owner Ellen Rose has a list of some of the best cookbooks of 2006:
- What to Drink with What You Eat: The Definitive Guide to Pairing Food with Wine, Beer, Spirits, Coffee, Tea - Even Water, Based on Expert Advice from America's Best Sommeliers by Andrew Dornenberg and Karen Page
- Culinary Artistry by Andrew Dornenberg and Karen Pag
- Falling Cloudberries; Apples for Jam and Twelve: A Tuscan Cook Book, all by Tessa Kiros
- Sous-Vide by Joan Rocca ($175.00)
- The Improvisational Cook by Sally Schneider
- The 150 Best American Recipes: Indispensable Dishes from Legendary Chefs and Undiscovered Cooks by Fran McCullough & Molly Stevens
- Crazy Water Pickled Lemons: Enchanting Dishes from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa by Diane Henry
- Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon by Claudia Roden
- Harlem Really Cooks: The Nouvelle Soul Food of Harlem by Sandra Lawrence
- In Search of Perfection: Reinventing Kitchen Classics by Heston Blumenthal
- Cook with Jamie: My Guide to Making You a Better Chef by Jamie Oliver
- Michael Mina: The Cookbook by Michael Mina
- Soul of a New Cuisine:A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa by Marcus Samuelson
- Happy in the Kitchen: The Craft of Cooking, the Art of Eating by Michel Richard
- How I Learned to Cook: Culinary Educations from the World's Greatest Chefs by Kimberly Witherspoon and Peter Meeham
- Life is Meals: Food Lovers Book of Days by James and Kay Salter
- Essence of Chocolate: Recipes for Baking and Cooking with Fine Chocolate by John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg
- Baking: From My Home to Yours by Dorrie Greenspan
- Tartine by Elisabeth Prueitt
- At Home with Magnolia: Classic American Recipes from the Owner of Magnolia Bakery by Allysa Torey
- Buttercup Bakes at Home: More Than 75 New Recipes from Manhattan's Premier Bake Shop for Tempting Homemade Sweets by Jennifer Appel
- The New York Times Dessert Cookbook by Florence Fabricant
- The Sweet Life: Desserts from Chanterelle by Kate Zuckerman and Tina Rupp
Music Break: Dancing Drums (More Drums) - Ananda Shankar
Sit. Stay. Chew. Doggie Treats for the Canine Gourmet ()
Linda West Eckhardt, author of The Dog Ate It: Cooking for Yourself and Your Four-Legged Friends talks us through her healthy recipes for dogs.
Linda is a respected food writer whose work has appeared in Redbook, Cooking Light, and Country Living magazines, and she is the author of sixteen cookbooks, including Bread in Half the Time, which won the IACP's Julia Child Award for Best Book of the Year.
Recipes in her latest book include: Chow Bella Burger Bites, Beef Teriyappi, Sausage Cheese Grits, Growly Good Granola, Beggar’s Purses, Cheddar Chomps, Sushi Hand Rolls, Dog-Friendly Salads, Chicken Soup, Adobo Chicken, Good Gravy, Turkey Meatballs, Lamb Shish Kebabs, Canine Kasha, North Carolina Pork Sandwiches, Roasted Pork Chops and Pekingese Duck.
Most Good Food recipes are available online by clicking on the [Full Details] link. Sign up for the free weekly newsletter. Sign up online. Click on About in the above navigation and then select E-Newsletters.
GOOD FOOD THANKS ITS UNDERWRITERS:
Du Vin Wine & Spirits: In business for more than two decades at San Vicente in West Hollywood, Du Vin offers more than 10,000 bottles of hand-picked wine, with staff specialists in the wines of France, Italy, Latin America and California.
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