Remembering Karen Hess; Global Warming and Food Safety; Halloumi Cheese
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UC Davis animal geneticist Alison Van Eenennaam discusses the science behind cloning beef, while science writer Jia-Rui Chong links global warming and food safety. Gavin Kaysen is voted one of Food & Wine magazine's Best New Chefs for 2007, and Marco Pierre White reveals how he became the enfant terrible of the British culinary world. "Breakaway Cook" Eric Gower tempts our tastebuds by bringing international flavors into everyday cooking. Cheese purveyor Melody Dosch offers halloumi cheese recipes, and food historian Barbara Haber remembers the late Karen Hess, a pioneer in academic food history. As always, Laura Avery finds the latest produce, recipes and tips in this week's Market Report.
The Market Report ()
Laura Avery meets with long-time farmer Elmer Leaman, who talks about his peaches. They are a special variety that he only brings to the farmers' market. Because pointed ends would break in shipping, they’re not a practical variety for commercial use.
Laura also chats with Good Food host Evan Kleiman about Romano beans -- the flat, long, green and yellow beans that look like a flattened green bean. Evan prepares her Romanos in a simple tomato sauce.
Long Cooked Green Beans Greek Style
Try to embrace this luscious dish. If you ever wanted to know what olive oil can do for a simple recipe, this is it. Make it at least once the way it’s written.
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup tomato sauce
1 cup of water
1 teaspoon sugar (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
1 medium onions, peeled and minced
1 lb romano beans, trimmed and cut in half horizontally if they are very long
In a large bowl mix the oil, tomato sauce and water together. Add the sugar and salt and stir.
Place the onions, than the beans in a heavy 6 quart pot. Pour the liquid mixture over them. Bring to a boil. Place a sheet of parchment paper directly on the beans then cover the pot. Reduce the heat so that the liquid simmers and beans cook slowly. Cook a minimum of 1 hour, a maximum of two hours. Occasionally lift the pot lid and the parchment off the beans (carefully) and stir ingredients. Add a bit more water if necessary to prevent burning.
At the end of the cooking time you will have a pot of silky tender beans coated with a thickened sauce. Serve cold or at room temperature with Greek yogurt or feta.
Music Break: Under the Bridges of Paris by Michel Legrand
Halloumi Cheese ()
Melody Dosch left behind a career in law to become the purveyor of The Artisan Cheese Gallery, a specialty and gourmet cheese shop in Studio City that she owns with her parents, Fred and Kay Heinemann. Melody provides some fresh recipe ideas for Halloumi cheese, a Greek cheese from Cyprus that's traditionally made from sheep and goat's milk (although cow's milk can also be used).
Halloumi Saganaki With Tomato Sauce and Shrimp
1 clove garlic, minced
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 can (14.5 oz) whole peeled tomatoes, diced, with their liquid
½ cup homemade chicken stock or low-sodium canned chicken broth
1 cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon fresh oregano
1 teaspoon salt
½ lb large (21-30 per lb) shrimp, deveined and peeled but with the tail left on
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 sprig fresh mint, leaves removed and torn into pieces
½ lb Cypriot halloumi cheese, cut into 1-inch dice
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, sauté the garlic and shallot in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add tomatoes, chicken stock, cinnamon stick, bay leaf, oregano, and half the salt, bring to a boil, lower heat to medium-low and simmer briskly until sauce thickens, about 20 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick and bay leaf and keep the sauce hot over low heat.
Preheat broiler on highest setting.
Season shrimp with remaining tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, remaining salt, half of the ground cinnamon, and half of the mint. Toss well. Heat a flame-proof, oven-proof 10-inch pan over medium-high heat until very hot. Turn off heat and put shrimp in pan in a single layer. Cover with one cup of the hot tomato sauce (reserve any remaining sauce for other uses) and top with the halloumi and remaining ground cinnamon. Place under broiler and cook until the cheese caramelizes, about 3 minutes. Garnish with remaining mint and drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil.
12 ounces halloumi cheese, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 sweet pepper, any color
1 red onion
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
1-2 tablespoon fresh finely chopped herbs (like, thyme, oregano, parsley, mint or any combination that you like or what is available.)
Lime juice or lemon juice
Chili powder (optional)
Skewers (wooden or metal)
Cut up the pepper and the red onion to match the size of the cheese cubes. Combine the herbs, garlic, oil, pepper, chilil powder and add lime juice to taste. Add the cheese, pepper, onion and mushrooms to the marinade, mix all together, cover and place in the fridge for 24 hours, give them a stir now and then. The next day, thread the Halloumi mix onto skewers, barbeque or grill them untill the cheese is tinged brown on the edges, using the left over marinade for basting.
Melody likes to sprinkle the kebob with fresh mint once it is removed from the grill.
The Cypriots crumble the halloumi and sprinkle it with chopped mint on thinly sliced watermelon. At Melody’s store, they grill it on the panini grill, squeeze lemon on it and then lightly cover it with chopped mint or drizzle it with a few drops of aged balsamic vinegar (older than 3 years provides the best flavor).
The Halloumi in Melody's shop comes from the Ballard Family Dairy in Gooding, Idaho. The cheese is called Golden Greek because only cheeses produced in Cyprus can be called "halloumi." The Ballard family uses sustainable farming methods and their herd is 100% Jersey cattle.
The Artisan Cheese Gallery
12023 Ventura Blvd.
Studio City, CA 91604
Music Break: Tired by Shawn Lee's Ping Pong Orchestra
Remembering Karen Hess ()
Noted food historian Barbara Haber celebrates the life of the late Karen Hess, a primary figure in launching culinary history as a studied discipline. Hess died May 15, at New York Presbyterian hospital after suffering a stroke. She was 88 years old. Her first book, The Taste of America, which she wrote with her husband, John Hess, was published in 1977 and resonated with Americans who heard the call for healthier eating. The book examined how American eating habits had regressed from whole foods and healthy ingredients to processed convenience food with little nutritional value. Hess' research on cookbooks from the Colonial and Revolutionary War eras helped to establish the study of food history, and resulted in one of her best known books, Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery and Booke of Sweetmeats.
Barbara Haber is the author of From Hard Tack to Home Fries: An Uncommon History of American Cooks and Meals.
Music Break: The Jitterbug Waltz by Michel Legrand
Cloned Beef Controversy ()
Recently, Evan Kleiman participated in a group "taste test" at Campanile, which was organized by the Los Angeles Times. The main course? Beef, one from a natural source and another sired by a cloned cow. UC Davis geneticist Alison Van Eenennaam, who also attended the dinner, explains the scientific background for the cloning process and the current controversies, including whether or not it's safe to eat. The results of the taste test are revealed in the Los Angeles Times article.
Music Break: Strict Scrutiny by Cougar
Global Warming and Food Safety ()
One of the biggest environmental issues facing the world today is global warming. While its affect on weather patterns, ice caps and rising ocean levels is largely understood, less clear is its impact on our food supply and personal health. Jia-Rui Chong, staff science writer for the Los Angeles Times, cautions that rising global temperatures are changing the food we eat, from increased bacteria levels in seafood from warmer waters to higher carbon dioxide levels that impact the nutritional value of rice and wheat. Global warming also affects human health, as higher concentrations of pollen aggravate allergies, and warmer temperatures promote the growth of diseases and bacteria.
Music Break: Perculator by Shawn Lee's Ping Pong Orchestra
The Breakaway Cook ()
Even the simplest of dishes can be made more exciting, sophisticated and flavorful with a burst of spices and seasonings not commonly used in American kitchens. Eric Gower is the original Breakaway Cook, a chef who draws his inspiration from uncomplicated dishes, then enlivens them with blasts of international flavors. His philosophy is easy to adapt to home kitchens and he encourages all home cooks to become breakaway cooks. His new book, The Breakaway Cook: Recipes That Break Away from the Ordinary, details
how easy access and affordability have made once-exotic ingredients readily
available, and all that’s needed is a little creativity and willingness to try
A writer and private chef, Eric writes a twice-weekly blog for Yahoo! Food called The Breakaway Cook. More information about his spices, how to use them and where to find them are on his website.
Music Break: Color of Life by Tommy Guererro
There's a New Chef in Town ()
From the time he was a teenager, Gavin Kaysen knew he wanted to be a chef. Now, at 27 years old, he is one of the great up-and-coming chefs. Gavin recently competed in the finals of the prestigious Bocuse d'Or World Cuisine Contest in France, representing the United States against 23 other countries. He was also recently named one of Food & Wine magazine's Best New Chefs for 2007. Gavin steps out of the kitchen to talk about his experiences as a young chef -- the heat of competition at the Bocuse d’Or and what it's like to work with experienced and world-renowned chefs. He also predicts what dining trends will be emerging next, focusing on longer tasting menus and San Diego as one of the next great city for foodies.
Currently, Gavin is the Chef de Cuisine at Rancho Bernardo's El Bizcocho restaurant in San Diego.
Music Break: Swinging for the Fences by Gordon Goodwin's Big Phat Band
Devil in the Kitchen ()
Marco Pierre White is the most decorated chef in English history and the youngest chef ever to win three Michelin stars. His London restaurant empire includes Belvedere, Criterion, Drones, L'Escargot, Mirabelle, Quo Vadis, and the Frankie's chain of pizzerias.
Known as the enfant terrible of London's culinary world, White created a world of perfectionism, unpredictable fury and tempestuous behavior in his kitchens, with passionately creative and delectable dishes transcending it all. His relentless pursuit of Michelin stars seemed to leave him empty despite the success, and he re-focused his priorities. Now, with confidence and experience measuring his success, he's returned his Michelin stars and turned his attention to the young chefs that he mentors, developing his portfolio of restaurants and being a father to his four children. Marco reflects on his reputation, how he was drawn to cuisine and what lies ahead.
The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness and the Making of a Great Chef is Marco Pierre White's latest book.
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