Goat Cheese Chocolate; Nicotine Ice Cream; Mother’s Milk Bank
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Jonathan Gold takes on Alain Giraud’s Anisette Brasserie, while confectioner Betsy Schoettlin makes goat cheese chocolates. Pauline Sakamoto collects and distributes donated breast milk; Vinnie Cilurzo makes Russian River Brewing’s barrel-aged beers and Eddie Lin scoops up nicotine ice cream. Plus, Patricia Wells discusses French dining etiquette, Steven Fineberg cooks offal and Laura Avery has a fresh Market Report.
The Market Report ()
Laura Avery chats with chef Mark Gold, three-star Los Angeles Times Food section chef and former chef of Leatherby's Cafe Rouge in Orange County and Cafe Pinot. He is working with one of his favorite farmers, Alex Weiser, grilling a griddle full of Weiser Farm veggies: Nantes carrots, Cipollini onions, whole garlic, potatoes (purple Peruvian, red Chilean, Russian Banana,) plus some early eggplant. To roast these veggies, cut the carrots, potatoes, and eggplant length-wise, and leave the skin on the Cipollini onions and garlic. The skin peals right off when they're done. Chef Gold will be opening a new restaurant called Eva.
Marinade for the veggies - use Adams Ranch olive oil from Santa Monica market, tossed with fresh rosemary and salt.
Recipe courtesy of Chef Mark Gold
- 2 shallots, minced
- 3 Tablespoon champagne vinegar
- 1 Tablespoon chopped oregano
- 2 Tablespoon chopped mint
- 3 Tablespoon chive, minced
- 4 Tablespoon chopped parsley
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Place the minced shallots in a bowl with the champagne vinegar. Let steep for 1 hour. Combine all of the herbs along with the salt in a mortar and grind to a fine paste with a pestle. Add the herb paste to the steeped shallots along with the olive oil and mix well.
Allison Hensley of Peacock Family Farm talks about summer squash varieties: Pattypan, Sunburst and Satellite star-shaped squash, as well as the Mexican variety Ronde de Nice, which are round and light green, and great for stuffing. Bake the squash first, hollow it out, put your stuffing in (goat cheese & spinach, for example), then bake at 350° until fork tender.
Music break: Father by The Quantic Soul Orchestra
Anisette Brasserie ()
Pulitzer Prize-winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold takes us to chef Alain Giraud's new French eatery, Anisette Brasserie located in the Clock Tower building in Santa Monica. Gold is a columnist for the LA Weekly.
225 Santa Monica Blvd
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Music break: FBI by The Shadows
Goat Cheese Chocolate ()
Artisan chocolatier Betsy Schoettlin combines exotic and unusual flavors with chocolate. Some of her more intriguing confections include goat cheese truffles, Kalamata olive truffles, prune filled with Irish whisky and chipotle marshmallow smores.
Betsy’s Goat Cheese Truffles
This recipe is for a small-sized batch. It should come out to around 1 ¼ lbs, give or take, depending on the goat cheese and cream that you use.
- 8 ozs 70%-73% chocolate, chopped into quarter-size pieces or smaller
- 8 ozs goat cheese (at room temperature)
- ¼ cup confectioners sugar
- 2 tsps vanilla
- ½ tsp firmly packed, very finely grated lemon peel
- 2 tsps lemon juice
- 3 Tablespoons cream
- 3 Tablespoons Plugra salted butter, softened at room temperature until it is the texture of hair pomade -- super soft and just barely holding its shape (Use regular butter if you can't find Plugra.)
1. Melt the chocolate*.
2. In a mixer, blend together the goat cheese, confectioners' sugar, vanilla, lemon peel, juice, butter and cream until the mixture is light and fluffy.
3. With the mixer running, pour in the chocolate until the mixture is combined well. Try to avoid letting the chocolate pour onto the sides of the bowl, as it will harden and cling there.
4. Let the ganache cool slightly. This particular ganache has a very small window of workability. Too warm and it just squishes all around, too cold and it gets crumbly and annoying. Poke at it with your finger as it cools. When it starts to feel like thick frosting, put it into a pastry bag and pipe it onto sheets of parchment into little mounds.
5. Dip in tempered chocolate. Or, if you'd prefer, you could dip into chocolate that has been barely melted and still cool. If you're super careful, it will stay in temper.
NOTE: Due to the nature of goat cheese, these truffles are very ACTIVE: they tend to expand, ooze and ferment. The expanding tends to crack the shell, after being dipped, and the oozing is a golden, honey-like goo that comes out of the crack. Neither one of these affects the flavor, just the appearance. The fermenting is quite another story. Once the truffles start to taste fizzy, throw them out. That should take at least five days though, and they'll probably all be gone by then.
Additional Notes: When dipping the truffles, Betsy rolls them once between her palms, which she has coated in tempered chocolate. Let this thin "sealing" coat dry briefly. Then dip them more traditionally in a thicker coat of tempered chocolate. The sealing coat will usually crack but will help control the truffles' unruly behavior once in the second coat.
After being dipped, the truffles should be refrigerated until about 2 to 4 hours before serving. Ideally they should be consumed within three days.
* Betsy melts chocolate in a glass bowl or measuring cup in the microwave. For the first pass, she usually sets the microwave to 2 minutes at 20% - 30% power. After the first two minutes, take the chocolate out, stir it well (it will just have begun to melt) and let it "rest" for 30 - 60 seconds before stirring again. This uses the residual heat of the glass bowl to continue the melting process. Then repeat the process at one-minute intervals, stirring well, but not too vigorously, until all of the chocolate is melted, smooth and glossy.
The resting time helps to assure that the bowl does not get too hot and burn the chocolate and that the chocolate has time to catch up with the heat and to melt evenly.
Music break: Five By Five by the Dave Clark Five
Mother's Milk Bank ()
Pauline Sakamoto, executive director of Mother's Milk Bank of California, collects and distributes excess breast milk for infants born with health problems and others in need. This organization is part of The Human Milk Banking Association of North America, which has locations throughout the United States and Canada. If you'd like to donate surplus breast milk, please call 1-866-522-MILK (522-6455).
Music break: Freak Out by Jackie Mittoo
Russian River Brewing Company ()
Owner and award-winning brewer Vinnie Cilurzo makes barrel-aged beer at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa, California.
- Temptation - aged in Chardonnay wine barrels; Champagne-like, soft, delicate flavor
- Supplication - aged in Pinot Noir wine barrels; dark beer, acidic, sour cherries
- Consecration - new sour beer aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels with black currants
Russian River Brewing Company Pub
725 4th Street
Santa Rosa, CA 95404
You can find Russian River Brewing Co. beer at these Southern California locations:
3229 Helms Avenue (near Culver City)
Los Angeles, CA 90034
1145 E Las Tunas Dr
San Gabriel, CA 91776
1102 Montana Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90403
400 E Glenoaks Blvd
Glendale, CA 91207
800-339-0609 or 818-247-5544
Music break: The Frightened City by The Shadows
Food adventurer and Deep End Dining blogger Eddie Lin samples incredible and unusual ice cream flavors at Scoops, near Los Angeles City College. Some of the flavors are brown bread ice cream and nicotine ice cream, as well as vegan ice cream.
712 N Heliotrope Dr
Los Angeles, CA 90029
Music break: Glow Worm by the Guitar Unlimited Plus 7
French Dining Etiquette ()
Paris-based food writer Patricia Wells talks about French dining etiquette, such as the rules for seating and serving as well as the Orange Juice rule. She and her husband, Walter, recently wrote a book called We've Always Had Paris...and Provence: A Scrapbook of Our Life in France.
Music break: Goin' Home by Ole Jensen and His Music
Cooking Offal ()
Local Forage co-editor Steven Fineberg shows us how to cook offal, the internal organs and entrails of a butchered animal. One of his favorite dishes is chopped liver.
This easy inexpensive dish is loaded with nutrients. Liver is rich in protein, zinc and vitamins A, D and complete in the B Vitamins. Eggs
contain lecithin which aids digestion of fat and cholesterol. The
lutein in the yolk is great for our eyes and helps fight colon cancer.
Pastured eggs are rich in Omega 3 fats which help prevent obesity,
diabetes and heart disease. Onions contain an anti-blood clotting
- 1 lb chicken livers
- 2 hard boiled eggs, cut in halves
- 1 brown onion, thinly sliced
- ½ red onion, chopped coarsely
- 1 scallion, diced
- Fat for sautéing, olive oil/butter, bacon fat, lard, rendered chicken fat, coconut oil
- White wine to de-glaze pan
1. Saute’ livers in fat of choice. I use lard or chicken fat. Remove from pan, let cool.
2. Saute’ brown onion in fat. Butter/olive oil is good. Remove from pan.
3. De-glaze pan in wine or homemade chicken stock.
4. Place onions, livers, eggs in food processor. Season with salt and pepper, add as much olive oil as you like and pulse to a consistency you like.
5. Delicious spread on rye bread and garnished with slices of raw milk cheddar cheese, red onion, sour cream.
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GOOD FOOD THANKS ITS UNDERWRITERS:
Du Vin Wine & Spirits: In business for more than two decades at San Vicente in West Hollywood, Du Vin offers more than 10,000 bottles of hand-picked wine, with staff specialists in the wines of France, Italy, Latin America and California.
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