The Frozen Food Master; Cocktail Renaissance; Nose to Tail at Home; Pie
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Pies pies and more pies. Cube’s Rachael Sheridan has the secret ingredient for the best crust. Mollie Cox Bryan shares stories of the Pie Lady. Cocktails are back. Famed New York Restaurateur Danny Meyer explains why mixologists are getting more attention than chefs. What did American life taste like before highways and chain restaurants? Mark Kurlansky has the details. Ryan Adams is cooking his way from the nose to the tail. Frozen Food Master Greg Ng eats his way through the frozen food aisle. Plus the king of the OC, Gustavo Arellano has a restaurant suggestion. And Laura Avery reports from the Santa Monica Farmers Market.
Market Report ()
Benny Bohm, general manager of Ammo restaurant. They're making a salad of green and yellow zucchini. Slice the zucchini very thinly in ribbons -- use a mandolin or a peeler. Toss with parsley, green Castelvetrano olives, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. If you like, add mint.
Ammo is hosting their second farm-to-table dinner on Sunday, August 30. It will feature produce from Windrose Farms and wine from Tablas Creek Winery.
Daisy Tamai of Tamai Farm also works at Phil Green's Life's a Choke stand. She makes a salad with green beans and artichoke hearts.
Daisy makes a dressing of balsamic vinegar, white vinegar, bottled zesty Italian dressing and sugar to marinate the vegetables. Blanch the green beens by putting them into boiling water for just a few seconds. Remove and put into ice water. Cut red and orange bell peppers into thin julienne strips. Add thinly sliced red onion and artichoke hearts. Allow the vegetables to marinate for 30 minutes. Watch Chef Dave Rubell demonstrate how to trim and artichoke.
Mike Cironi of Sea Canyon has fall Bartlett pears at the Farmers Market. You'll also find a variety of Asian pears.
Beginning next week, the Santa Monica Farmers Market is going water bottle free in partnership with Food and Water Watch. They're offering free filtered tap water and reusable stainless steel water bottles for sale.
And, Thursday, August 27 join Laura, Russ Parsons and a panel of farmers for a discussion on farming for the next generation. Sassan Rostamian will be providing food.
Music Break: The Accumulator by Zook
Rachael Sheridan is the buyer for Cube Cafe and Marketplace on La Brea.
Cube Cafe's Champagne Grape Pie
Cube Café’s Grape Pie
Recipe courtesy of Jun Tan
8 or 9-inch pie pan
6 1/4 oz all-purpose flour
2 Tablespoons sugar
1/4 tsp salt
4 oz butter, cold, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
4 oz cream cheese, cold, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 1/2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice
8 cups champagne or concord grapes
*Using a food processor, roughly chop the grapes and place them in a strainer set over a bowl. Keep them in the refrigerator overnight to drain out the juices.
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup all purpose flour
1/8 tsp salt
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
To make the crust:
Using a food processor, combine the flour, sugar and salt. Add butter and cream cheese, pulse until it resembles pea size crumbs. Add lemon juice; pulse until it forms a ball. Do not over-mix!
Flatten the dough to about an inch thick and wrap with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
Cut the dough in half, roll the first half to fit the entire pan with about 1/4 inch extra overhang from the edge of the pan. Roll out the second half big enough to cover the top, set aside.
To make the pie filling:
Combine all ingredients (minus the extra juice drained out of the grapes) in a bowl and mix well.
Pour filling in prepared crust. Brush the edge of the dough with egg wash and cover with the top portion of rolled out dough. Pinch the two edges together and twist the edges to seal.
Brush the top with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar. Cut a small slit in the middle of the pie.
Bake for 30-45 minutes in a 425 degree oven until golden brown and bubbly.
Let the pie rest for 30 minutes before serving.
Serve with ice cream or fresh cream.
Rose Levy Beranbaum's Blueberry Pie
From The Pie and Pastry Bible
Basic Flaky Pie Crust
1/2 large egg white, lightly beaten
4 cups blueberries, rinsed and dried
1/2 cup plus 2 Tablespoons water, divided
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
pinch of salt
Remove the dough from the refrigerator. If necessary, allow it to sit for about 10 minutes or until it is soft enough to roll.
Using a pastry cloth and sleeve rubbed with flour or two sheets of plastic wrap lightly sprinkled with flour, roll the dough 1/8 inch thick or less and large enough to cut a 13-inch circle. use an expandable flan ring or a cardboard template and sharp knife as a guide to cut our the circle. Transfer the dough to the pie pan. Fold under the excess and crimp the border using a fork or your fingers. Cover it loosely and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour and a maximum of 24 hours.
Preheat the oven to 425 at least 20 minutes before baking.
Line the pastry with parchment, pleating it as necessary so it fits into the pan, and fill it with rice or dried beans. Bake for 20 minutes. Carefully lift out the rice or beans with the parchment. With a fork, prick the bottom and sides and back 5 or 10 minutes more or until the crust is pale golden. Check after 3 minutes and prick any bubbles that may have formed.
Cool the crust on a rack for 3 minutes, so it is no longer piping hot, then brush the bottom and sides with the egg white.
Measure out 1 cup of the blueberries, choosing the softest ones. Place them in a medium saucepan together with the 1/2 cup water. Cover and bring them to a boil.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and the remaining 2 tablespoons of water, Set it aside,
When the water and blueberries have come to a boil, lower the heat and simmer, stirring constantly, for 3 to 4 minutes or until the blueberries start to burst and the juices begin to thicken, Stirring constantly, add the cornstarch mixture, the sugar, lemon juice, and salt, Simmer for a minute or until the mixture becomes translucent. Immediately remove it from the heat and quickly fold in the remaining 3 cups of blueberries,
Spoon the mixture into the baked pie shell and allow to sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours before serving, When set, the berries will remain very juicy but will not flow out of the crust.
Just before serving, if desired, pipe or spread the whipped cream around the sides of the pie, leaving the center unadorned and brilliantly glistening.
The Pie Lady ()
Mrs. Rowe is known as the Pie Lady in Virginia. Mollie Cox Bryan is the author of Mrs. Rowe's Little Book of Southern Pies. The most popular type of pie served at Mrs. Rowe's restaurant in Staunton, Virginia is the Coconut Cream Pie.
Mrs. Rowe's Meringue
4 egg whites, at room temperature
1/4 tsp cream of tartar
3 Tablespoons sugar
Combine the egg whites and cream of tartar in a chilled bowl and beat with an electric mixer on slow to medium speed until soft peaks form. Add the sugar one Tablespoon at a time and continue beating on slow to medium speed until the whites form stiff peaks but aren't dry. The meringue is now ready to pile lightly over a pie.
Original Coconut Cream Pie
1/2 recipe Plain Pie Pastry, pre-baked
3 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 to 1/2 cup water
3 cups milk
1 cup sweetened flaked coconut
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tsps vanilla extract
1 recipe Mrs. Rowe's Meringue
Preheat the oven to 325.
Stir together the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and just enough of the water to make a smooth paste. Heat the milk in a double boiler set over simmering water. When the milk begins to steam, gradually whisk in the egg mixture. Cook, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in 3/4 cup of the coconut, the butter and the vanilla.
Pour the filling into the crust and top with the meringue, sealing the edges well. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup coconut over the meringue.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until the meringue is golden brown and it's firm to the careful touch (it's easy to poke a hole in the meringue). Cool on a wire rack for 2 hours before slicing. Serve the pie at room temperature or, for a special treat, serve it warm - pop a slice in the microwave for about 10 seconds.
Music Break: Call Me At Cleo's by Joey Altruda
A Cocktail Renaissance ()
Danny Meyer is the owner Union Square Hospitality Group, which owns of numerous restaurants around New York City including Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park and Union Square Care. His latest book is Mix Shake Stir.
Choose the juiciest watermelon you can find for this summer-in-a-glass cocktail. To dress it up, garnish the glass with a melon wedge briefly seared on a hot grill.
Fill a double rocks glass with ice. Muddle the watermelon and mint leaves in a cocktail shaker. Add ice and the lime juice, simple syrup, and rum and shake vigorously. Strain into the glass and top with soda water. Garnish with the mint sprigs and serve.
Four 1-inch cubes fresh watermelon
6 fresh mint leaves, plus mint sprigs for garnish.
1/2 oz fresh lime juice
1/2 oz Simple Syrup
2 1/2 oz white rum
Soda water to taste
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar and water and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool. Pour into a glass jar, cover, and refrigerate until needed. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.
PhD in Mixology ()
Ehren Ashkenazi, Beverage Director at The Modern makes a Mai Tai with Velvet Falernum, which is a rum based liquor infused with sugar cane syrup.
Modified Mai Tai
2 oz Aged Jamaican Rum
1 oz Lime Juice
½ oz Triple Sec
½ Simple Syrup
¼ oz Falernum
¼ Orgeat Syrup
Shake the above ingredients and strain over fresh ice into a rocks glass. Garnish with a lime wedge and mint sprig.
Sam Lipp is the Assistant General Manager of Eleven Madison Park. He loves Chartreuse, which he uses to make a PC Fizz.
Makes 1 drink
1 1/2 oz Pimm's No. 1
1/2 oz yellow Chartreuse
1 oz Simple Syrup
3/4 oz fresh lime juice
1 large egg white
Fill a highball glass with ice. Combine the Pimm's No. 1, Chartreuse, simple syrup, lemon and lime juices, and egg white in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Add ice to the shaker and shake vigorously for another 30 seconds. Strain into the glass and serve.
The double 30-second shake results in a frothier crown. For a variation, strain the mixture into a highball glass with no ice and top with 1 1/2 - 2 ounces soda water.
Music Break: Bastinado by Zook
Food of a Younger Land ()
Mark Kurlansky is the author of Salt, Cod and The Big Oyster. His latest book is The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal.
Music Break: Eight Days A Week by Sammy Jaye
Nose to Tail at Home ()
Ryan Adams of Texas is cooking his way through Fergus Henderson's The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating. He is chronicling the experience on his blog, Nose to Tail at Home.
Pheasant and Pig's Trotter Pie with Suet Crust
3 pigs trotters
A bundle of fresh herbs
1 head of garlic, skin on
2 bay leaves
10 black peppercorns
2 stalks of celery, chopped
2 red onions, peeled and halved
2 carrots, peeled
1 bottle of red wine
1 3/4 quarts chicken stock
A scoop of duck fat or unsalted butter
1 lb unsmoked streaky bacon, rind removed, rolled and tied, bacon cut into chunks
2 pheasants, split in half, kept on the bone, and seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 onions, peeled and sliced
1 1/2 cups self-rising flour
1/4 lb suet, shredded
A healthy pinch of sea salt
1 egg yolk, beaten, for glaze
The pie filling is best made the day before, to find itself. Place the trotters in a pot with the herbs, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, celery, red onions, and carrots, cover with red wine and stock, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 3 hours, until the trotters are cooked and tender. Remove the trotters from the pot, then strain the stock. While the trotters are warm, pick the flesh and skin from the bones..
Get a frying pan hot, add duck fat or butter, fry the bacon chunks and the rolled rind, then remove to a deep roasting pan or ovenproof dish. Now brown the pheasant halves, and then move them to join the bacon (if the pan is looking dry, add a little more fat). Then sweat the onions, add these to the roasting pan, add the trotter flesh and stock, and cover with aluminum foil. Place in a hot 425 oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 and cook for another 30 minutes. Remove, check the seasoning and allow to cool in the stock (at this point it can be eaten if you have not the patience for making a pie).
When cool, remove the pheasant and pull the meat off the bones, keeping the pieces of flesh large, as you want them to maintain their integrity in the pie. Return them to the other ingredients and refrigerate overnight.
To make the pastry, mix the ingredients (except the egg yolk) together, then add ice cold water cautiously, to achieve a firm dough. Allow this to rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours before use.
Place your meat mixture in a pie dish (if there appears to be too much sauce, hold some back, it will come in handy somewhere else), cover with pastry, paint this with egg yolk and bake in a medium to hot 375 oven for 40 minutes. When the pastry is ready and golden, and the stuffing bubbling inside, serve and eat. Very good with Brussles sprouts.
Frozen Food Master ()
Music Break: El Arbol by Wilmar Sanchez
Sri Lanka in the OC ()
Gustavo Arellano is the food editor for the OC Weekly, where he also writes the Ask a Mexican column. He reviewed Wadiya, a Sri Lankan restaurant in Anaheim. He recommends the black curry which is very spicy, even for his Mexican palate. He also liked the various sambol, which are like condiments. His favorite is the coconut sambol.
949 & 951 South Euclid St.
Anaheim, CA 92802
See all of Gustavo Arellano's restaurant picks mentioned on Good Food on the Good Food Restaurant Map.
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