Midtown Lunch; Eastern European Wine; Rhubarb Sorbet
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Midtown Lunch; Eastern European Wine; Rhubarb Sorbet

More sidewalk cafes is one solution Rob Eshman has for Los Angeles.  This week on Good Food, he details his dissatisfaction with L.A.'s food scene.  Jonathan Gold goes foraging in Silverlake.  We'll do lunch with Midtown Lunch's Zach Brooks. Francis Mallman describes Argentina's elaborate grilling tradition.  Lisa Hamilton introduces us to three remarkable farmers.  Plus Taylor Parsons describes how young winemakers are making a splash in Eastern Europe.  And Laura Avery tells us what's fresh at the Santa Monica Farmers Market.

Guest Interview

Market Report ()

David West from Clearwater Farms brings morels to the farmers market.  He only has them for a few weeks.  They are earthy and have a strong flavor. He likes them over a steak or cooked with eggs.

Rhubarb

Rachael Narins is shopping for rhubarb at the farmers market.  She is a chef and partner in Chicks with Knives, a roaming supper club that focuses on sustainable, organic and local food.   She is making rhubarb sorbet cooked with white wine and ver jus. 

Rhubarb Sorbet

Rhubarb Sorbet
1 lb trimmed rhubarb
8 oz tart apples, peeled
4 oz white wine
4 oz ver jus
5 oz sugar
2 1/4 oz honey

Pinch Salt

In a pot combine all except the rose water and salt. Bring to a simmer and cook over medium low heat until all the fruit is tender.  Remove from the heat, cover with plastic wrap and let cool for 20 minutes. Strain very well through a chinois, cool over and ice bath then season with salt and adjust the acidity if needed. Freeze in an ice cream machine.
 
Garnish with pink peppercorns.
 
Music Break: May Day by UNKLE 

Guest Interview

Deeply Rooted ()

Lisa Hamilton is the author of Deeply Rooted: Unconventional Farmers in the Age of Agribusiness.

She profiles three farmers that are taking an unconventional approach to agriculture:

Harry Lewis

Harry Lewis, an African-American dairy farmer in west Texas.

 

Virgil Trujillo

Virgil Trujillo, rancher in Northern New Mexico

 

The Podolls

The Podolls in Fullerton, North Dakota

Guest Interview

Grilling the Argentine Way ()

Francis Mallman is the author of Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way.

Seven Fires

Burnt Ricotta Salata, Tomatoes and Olives

 

Serves 6

1 tsp sugar
3 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup fresh oregano leaves
12 oz cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 cup Kalamata olives
10 oz ricotta salata
2 small red chiles
Coarse salt
1/4 tsp crushed rep pepper flakes

Whisk together the sugar, red wine vinegar, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the oregano in a bowl. Add the tomatoes and toss to coat.

 

Smash the olives with the side of a heavy knife and tear them open, removing the pits. Toss the olives and tomatoes together on a serving platter.

 

Break the ricotta salata into rough 1-inch pieces and place in a bowl. Halve the chiles, remove the seeds, and cut lengthwise into thin slices. Add the ricotta and toss with the remaining 5 tablespoons olive oil.

 

Heat a chapa (a flat piece of cast iron set over a fire) or large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the ricotta and the chiles in batches, so they aren't crowded, and cook without moving for 5 to 10 seconds; as soon as you see the cheese charring on the bottom, remove the cheese and chiles and place the burnt side up over the tomatoes and olives. Sprinkle with salt and red pepper flakes. Serve immediately.

 

 

Braided Beef with Anchovies and Olives

 

Serves 6

15 anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives
1 center-cut beef tender loin roast, at least 12 inches long, partially butterfied
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Crush the anchovies to a paste in a mortar (or pulse in a food processor). Chop half of the olives, and crush them together with the anchovies. Cut the fillet lengthwise into 3 long strips, stopping 1 inch from the end. Spread the anchovy mixture evenly along one side of each strip. Braid the meat tightly, tying it firmly together at the end with kitchen string. Use your palms to flatten the braid to an even thickness, then push any anchovy stuffing back into the braids. Brush the meat all over with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.

 

Brush a chapa (a flat piece of cast iron set over a fire) or large cast-iron griddle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and heat over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles on the surface. Add the beef and cook without moving for 10 minutes, or until it is nicely browned on the first side. Turn the meat over and sear on the other side for about 6 minutes—the meat should be quite rare. Continue turning and cooking the meat until all the sides are seared and it is done to taste. Transfer the meat to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes.

 

Meanwhile, lightly smash the remaining olives and place alongside the meat. The juices will run together.

 

Remove the string, carve the beef into thick slices, and season with pepper. Serve with olives and juices.

 

Music Break: Saturday Night by Billy Strange

Guest Interview

Foraging with Jonathan Gold ()

Jonathan Gold is the Pulitzer Prize winning food writer for the LA Weekly. This week he reviews Forage in Silverlake. He likes the chickpeas cooked with chorizo.  Customers can bring in produce from their backyards to be used in the menu.

Forage
3823 West Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90026-1529
(323) 663-6885

All of Jonathan's suggestions are on the Good Food Restaurant Map.

 

 

View Good Food Restaurant Map in a larger map

Guest Interview

What's Wrong with LA's Food Scene ()

Rob Eshman writes the blog Foodaism for the Jewish Journal.  After Saveur magazine dedicated an issue to Los Angeles, Rob countered with a post about what he thinks is wrong with Los Angeles' food scene.


Music Break: Seven and 7 by The Bo-Keys

Guest Interview

Eastern European Wines ()

Taylor Parsons is the wine director at Campanile and Tar Pit.  They are serving some wines from Eastern Europe (Slovenia, Croatia and Slovakia).  Some of his selections include:

2004 Pinela - Ivan Batic, Vipava Valley, Slovenia

2006 Sauvignon - Movia, Brda, Slovenia

2007 Pelješac - Dingac Winery, Pelješac Penninsula, Croatia

2006 Cabernet Franc - Batic, Vipava Valley, Slovenia

Guest Interview

Midtown Lunch ()

Zach Brooks writes the blog Midtown Lunch, which has a new Los Angeles edition.  His recommendations for L.A. are:

Downtown - Starry Kitchen (350 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, (213) 617-3474)

Mid-Wilshire - Food trucks parked across from LACMA

Hollywood - Ghanda (5269 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 466-4281)

Culver City - Simpang Asia (10433 National Blvd., Los Angeles, 310-815-9075)

Westwood - Alcazar Express (1303 Westwood Boulevard, Los Angeles, (310) 914-9777)

Burbank - Cafe Colombia (222 South Glenoaks Boulevard, Burbank, (818) 558-3985)

 

 

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