End of Summer Grilling; Mexican Popsicles; LA's Best Barbecue
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Even though it's Labor Day weekend, we're not letting go of summer here on Good Food. This week, Gustavo Arellano shares his secret for cooling off: paletas, or Mexican popsicles. If you like to barbecue, the grill master Steven Raichlen has some options for non-meat grilling. If meat is your thing, chef Liran Mezan tells us what cuts go well on the grill. Jonathan Gold is here with some barbecue options in LA. For dessert, ice cream. Anthony Grant breaks down the best spots in the country. Chris Kimball of America's Test Kitchen, has a few ideas for a late-summer picnic. Plus, Alex Brown and Evan George, aka the Hot Knives, share their summer mix of beer, cheese and music. And chefs Charlie and Kathleen Schaffer have a recipe for stuffed padron peppers.
Market Report ()
Kathleen and Charlie Schaffer are Schaffer Genuine Foods. They are buying Weiser padron peppers and stuffing them with a goat cheese filling. They also pickle them for bloody mary's and use them in Spanish omelettes.
Chanterelle-Stuffed Padron Peppers
(12 servings, 36 pieces)
3 dozen Padron peppers
2 cups Chanterelle mushrooms
3 whole shallots
3 slices smoked bacon
3 Tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup white wine
2 Tablespoons parsley
1 Tablespoon thyme
2 Tablespoons lemon zest
½ cup cream cheese
1 cup grated dry aged goat cheese
1 pinch salt and pepper
4 whole eggs
¼ cup milk
2 cups All-Purpose flour
1 tsp Moroccan seasoning
3 cups panko breadcrumbs
Be sure to choose the largest padron peppers that are all consistent in size.
On stove top boil 4 qts of lightly salted water. Add peppers and blanch for 2 mins. strain and cool.
Take each pepper and clip off the stem. With a bird's beak or pairing knive remove the seeds and membrane inside of the peppers. Place on towel and pat dry. You may want to wear gloves at this point as you may get a spicy pepper with seeds that could burn your fingers a bit.
Cut bacon into small pieces and place in saute pan and render on low heat. Once bacon bits are golden and crispy remove from pan. In residual bacon fat add olive oil. Add salt and pepper. Add minced shallots, and chopped chanterelles.
Sauté until shallots are translucent and mushrooms have caramelized slightly. Add white wine to deglaze and loosen all of the bits from the pan. Reduce until the mushroom mixture is well coated and remove from heat.
In food processor, add mushroom mixture, cream cheese, grated dry aged goat cheese (We love Capricious or Drunken Goat) add chopped herbs, lemon zest, bacon bits. Pulse until smooth. Put filling in pastry bag.
Holding each individual pepper place pastry bag tip inside and pipe out approximately 1 tsp of filling. When peppers are filled you can make an egg wash for them.
In a bowl blend eggs, milk. In another bowl blend AP flour with moroccan spices or your favorite curry powder. In a third bowl add panko crumbs. Dredge each pepper in seasoned flour. Dip in eggwash and then Panko. Fry at 350 degrees for approximately 1-2min until golden brown. Remove from oil and place on cooling rack. Sprinkle with salt to taste.
Serve immediately with a lemon half to squeeze on top. You can also use the stuffed peppers as a first course and serve with a lightly dressed salad of arugula, endive and julienned apple.
Patrick works with Carlsbad Aquafarm, a sustainable seafood company in North San Diego County. They use their fresh mussels and clams with other farmers market ingredients for a cioppino, or seafood stew.
Martha Stewart's Cioppino
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large onion (2 1/2 cups), coarsely chopped
1 medium bulb fennel, trimmed and thinly sliced lengthwise
4 cloves garlic, minced (2 1/2 tablespoons)
2 1/2 tsps fresh thyme
2 tsps dried oregano
1/2 tsp crushed red-pepper flakes
1 dried bay leaf
Pinch of saffron
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes with juice, crushed
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1 cup bottled clam juice
1 lb cockles or manila clams, scrubbed well
1 lb mussels, scrubbed well and debearded
1 lb skinless firm white fish fillets, such as halibut, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1 1/4 lbs large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
3 (2-inch) pieces orange zest
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 Tablespoons capers, rinsed
Grilled Sourdough Bread, for serving
Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add onion, fennel, and garlic. Cook until the onion is translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in thyme, oregano, red pepper, bay leaf, and saffron.
Add tomatoes and their liquid, wine, clam juice, and 1 1/4 cups water, and bring to a simmer.
Add clams and mussels, and cover, simmering until shells open, 5 to 6 minutes. Season fish and shrimp with salt and pepper, and add to the pot. Cover, and simmer until the fish is opaque and the shrimp turn pink and begin to curl, 2 to 3 minutes.
In a small food processor, combine parsley, orange zest, orange juice, capers, and remaining 1/4 cup olive oil; process until smooth.
Remove pot from heat. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Serve with a dollop of the parsley mixture and the grilled bread.
Music Break: Know More Now (Instrumental + No Drums) by Zeep
Mexican Ice Cream ()
(Photo - OC Register)
OC Weekly writer Gustavo Arellano samples Mexican nieves (ice cream), paletas (frozen fruit bars) and cocteles de fruta (fruit salad) at La Flor de Mexico in Stanton, California. He is the author of ¡Ask a Mexican!
La Flor de Mexico
7151 Katella Ave
Stanton, CA 90680
Music Break: Quiet Man is Dead Man by The Daktaris
Texas BBQ in LA ()
Jonathan Gold is the Pulitzer-Prize winning food writer for the LA Weekly. This week, Jonathan tells us about a Texas-style barbecue joint in Compton called Bludso’s. He also likes Big Mista’s, which sells at the Atwater Village Farmer’s Market.
811 S. Long Beach Blvd.
Compton, CA 90221
All of Jonathan Gold's restaurant suggestions are on the Good Food Restaurant Map.
Meat for the Grill ()
Liran Mezan is the corporate chef at B.L.T steak. Liran recommends butcher cuts like flank or hangar steak as a flavorful alternative to individual cuts.
Dry aged beef is an expensive but really flavorful type of beef. It's dehydrated by resting up to 28 days in a temperature controlled room. Liran explains that it's controlled rot. The flavor is concentrated in a dry aged steak.
Find B.L.T steak around the country, including Los Angeles:
8720 Sunset Boulevard
West Hollywood CA, 90069
Music Break: Rock Steady by Generation Gap
Unexpected Grilling ()
Grilling guru Steven Raichlen cooks up some unexpected barbecue dishes, including grilled eggs, nori (seaweed,) Caesar salad, grilled ice cream and cooking in the embers. Raichlen is the best-selling author of The Barbecue! Bible 10th Anniversary Edition and How to Grill: The Complete Illustrated Book of Barbecue Techniques, as well BBQ USA: 425 Fiery Recipes from All Across America. He also offers classes through his Barbecue University grilling school.
Spit-roasted Pineapple with Cinnamon, Sugar and Cloves
Serves 4 to 8
1 ripe pineapple
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
2 tablespoons butter, melted
Vanilla or crème brulee ice cream
1 bunch fresh mint
1. Cut off the leafy top of the pineapple, then carefully cut off the rind. Using a sharp knife, make a series of spiral cuts to remove the eyes.
2. Place the sugar, cinnamon, and cloves, if using, in a bowl and stir to mix.
3. Set up the grill for spit-roasting following the manufacturer’s instructions and preheat the grill as hot as it will get.
4. Thread the pineapple onto the rotisserie spit crosswise so the spit passes through the middle of the fruit and the ends will be closest to the fire. Working over a tray or sheet pan, sprinkle some of the cinnamon sugar on all sides and the ends of the pineapple, crusting it as thickly and as evenly as possible. You’ll use about half of the cinnamon sugar.
5. When ready to cook, attach the spit to the rotisserie mechanism and turn on the motor. Spit-roast the pineapple until it is darkly browned on the outside. This can take as little as 10 minutes or as long as 20 depending on how hot your fire is. (I suggest doing this on a charcoal-burning rotisserie, which gets hotter than a gas one. Keep the grill covered, which will make it hotter, still.) Halfway through spit-roasting, brush the pineapple with the melted butter and sprinkle the remaining cinnamon sugar over it.
6. Take the pineapple to the table on the spit on a cutting board. Remove the spit and slice the pineapple crosswise. Serve the hot pineapple with ice cream and a sprig of fresh mint.
Music Break: Rocksville, Pa. by The Admiral Tones
America's Test Kitchen's Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookies
Makes 16 cookies
Avoid using a nonstick skillet to brown the butter; the dark color of the nonstick coating makes it difficult to gauge when the butter is browned. Use fresh, moist brown sugar instead of hardened brown sugar, which will make the cookies dry. This recipe works with light brown sugar, but the cookies will be less full-flavored. For our winning brand of chocolate chips, see related tasting.
1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (8 3/4 ounces)
1/2 tsp baking soda
14 Tablespoons unsalted butter (1 3/4 sticks)
1/2 cup granulated sugar (3 1/2 ounces)
3/4 cups packed dark brown sugar (5 1/4 ounces) (see note)
1 tsp table salt
2 tsps vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 1/4 cups semisweet chocolate chips or chunks (see note)
3/4 cup chopped pecan or walnuts, toasted (optional)
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 large (18- by 12-inch) baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour and baking soda together in medium bowl; set aside.
2. Heat 10 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat until melted, about 2 minutes. Continue cooking, swirling pan constantly until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and, using heatproof spatula, transfer browned butter to large heatproof bowl. Stir remaining 4 tablespoons butter into hot butter until completely melted.
3. Add both sugars, salt, and vanilla to bowl with butter and whisk until fully incorporated. Add egg and yolk and whisk until mixture is smooth with no sugar lumps remaining, about 30 seconds. Let mixture stand 3 minutes, then whisk for 30 seconds. Repeat process of resting and whisking 2 more times until mixture is thick, smooth, and shiny. Using rubber spatula or wooden spoon, stir in flour mixture until just combined, about 1 minute. Stir in chocolate chips and nuts (if using), giving dough final stir to ensure no flour pockets remain.
4. Divide dough into 16 portions, each about 3 tablespoons (or use #24 cookie scoop). Arrange 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheets, 8 dough balls per sheet. (Smaller baking sheets can be used, but will require 3 batches.)
5. Bake cookies 1 tray at a time until cookies are golden brown and still puffy, and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft, 10 to 14 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Transfer baking sheet to wire rack; cool cookies completely before serving.
America's Best Ice Cream ()
Forbes Traveler's senior editor Anthony Grant rounds up the best ice cream in America. He focuses on McConnell's Ice Cream, Toscanini's and and Ciao Bella,
which can be found at Whole Foods Market throughout Southern
California. He also discusses the current trends in ice cream. The list
of the ten best ice creams can be found in this article.
McConnell's Fine Ice Creams
835 E Canon Perdido St
Santa Barbara, CA 93103
3692 18th St (@ Dolores)
San Francisco, CA 94110
Music Break: Rollin Easy by London Studio Group
Beer, Cheese and Rock 'n Roll ()
Pliny the Elder (Russian River Brewing)
Dairy Pairy: Sunlight, washed rind goat's milk cheese from Colorado
Soundtrack: Leonard Cohen's "I'm Your Man"
Black Flag Imperial Stout (Beer Valley)
Dairy Pairy: Ditcheat Hill Cheddar, bandaged British cheese
Soundtrack: Danzig's "Dirty Black Summer"
Douchess de Bourgogne (Brewery Verhaega)
Dairy Pairy: Torta la Serena, raw Spanish sheep's milk cheese
Soundtrack: Psychic TV's "Godstar"
Siamese Twin Ale (Uncommon Brewers)
Dairy Pairy: Caruchon, brine-washed French ewe's milk
Soundtrack: Fela Kuti's "Gentlemen"
Cantillon Bio Geuze (Cantillon)
Dairy Pairy: Gorwydd Cerphilly, rare Welsh cow's milk cheese
Soundtrack: Blonde Redhead's "Melody of Certain Three"
More in Evan's conversation with Evan and Alex on the Good Food Blog.
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