Good Food
History of Ketchup; Homemade Mustard; Is White Bread Racist?
Find out why ketchup became America's favorite condiment. Learn how to make mustard at home. Plus, how race, war and politics created white bread.
By Evan Kleiman • • 57m ListenTracie McMillan goes undercover picking peaches, crisping lettuce and working at Applebee's to find out how America's food system works. Elina Shatkin discovers the myriad possibilities in a sandwich and highlights some of her favorites in LA. Aaron Bobrow-Strain explains how race, war and politics all contributed to the success of white bread in America. The history of ketchup is outlined by Andrew F. Smith and Noelle Carter details how simple making mustard at home can be. Plus, Jonathan Gold finds one of this year's best dishes and Gustavo Arellano takes us out for a mash up of Middle Eastern food in Anaheim.
Banner image: Wonder Bread (previous Canadian packaging)
In this episode
8 storiesMarket Report
Jeremy Strubel is the new executive chef at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica. He's using squash blossoms from Life's a Choke Farms, stuffing them with a mixture of squash, goat cheese, ricotta and soft herbs, and then frying them in a light batter. A recipe for his Stuffed Squash Blossom Filling is on the Good Food Blog .
Read the story7 minThe American Way of Eating
Tracie McMillan is the author of The American Way of Eating . The book chronicles her journey working undercover as a farmworker, a Walmart employee and a kitchen staff member at Applebee's. You can see McMillan in conversation with Evan Kleiman at a Zócalo Public Square event on Thursday, April 19.
Read the story9 min30 Sandwiches in 30 Days
Elina Shatkin is a senior editor for Los Angeles magazine. Formerly, she was a food writer at LA Weekly where she chronicled 30 Sandwiches in 30 Days .
Read the story7 minWhite Bread, Then and Now
Aaron Bobrow-Strain is a professor at Whitman College and the author of White Bread : A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf. In the book he explores the factors that led to the popularity in white bread from fear of immigration, war and industrial ingenuity. An outtake of his conversation with Evan is on the Good Food Blog .
Read the story10 minThe History of Ketchup
Andrew F. Smith teaches Food Studies at the New School in New York. A frequent writer and lecturer on food history, he's edited or authored 19 books, including Pure Ketchup : A History of America's National Condiment with Recipes.
Read the story7 minHomemade Mustard, Quick and Simple
Noelle Carter is themanager for the Los Angeles Times' Test Kitchen. Her article on homemade mustard in the Times inspired this segment on how to make mustard at home. Recipes for her homemade mustard are on the Good Food Blog .
Read the story8 minBrussels Sprouts Worth Driving For
Jonathan Gold visits Freddy Smalls , one of the many gastro-pubs featuring craft cocktails and bar bites to open this year. Although predominantly a drinking establishment, Jonathan raves about the BBQ cashews and the fried brussel sprouts. He also enjoys the charcuterie and the crisp pork belly with abalone.
Read the story2 minMiddle Eastern Fusion
Gustavo Arellano is the editor of the OC Weekly and the author of Taco USA : How Mexican Food Conquered America. This week he visits Midan al Tahrir , a "pan Middle Eastern restaurant" featuring dishes from Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, Qatar, Yemen, Saudi Arabia and more.
Read the story7 min
