Producer, Good Food
FROM Camellia Tse
Staying afloat in L.A.'s restaurant biz Opening and running a restaurant is a never-ending hustle and an unpredictable enterprise. A decade ago, Ohio State University researchers found that 6 out of 10 restaurants fail in their first year. More recent findings reveal the median lifespan of a restaurant in the western part of the US to be just 4½ years. We asked five restaurateurs to share their stories of life in the business.
Appropriation in food, dulce de leche, mastering culinary technique Gustavo Arellano examines a case of cultural appropriation in breakfast burritos, and Samin Nosrat explains why salt, fat, heat and acid are the elements of good cooking. Plus: Josephine Caminos Orìa schools us on dulce de leche, Jonathan Gold reviews Rossoblu and Laura Avery gets a pitch for raw milk at the market.
Travels in Spain, Slow Food, 'Adventures in Starry Kitchen' Joann Lo and Jose Oliva discuss their work with the Food Chain Workers Alliance, and Simran Sethi files a field report from Slow Food Nations in Denver. Nguyen Tran shares more “Adventures in Starry Kitchen,” and Matt Goulding travels to Spain with chef José Andrés, barnacle hunters and cider makers. Plus, summer squash at the market, and Jonathan Gold dines at Michael’s in Santa Monica.
Tasting the Impossible Burger, salt, butter and spirulina We taste the latest vegan beef poseur on the market at Crossroads Kitchen, sample fancy salts with n/naka pastry chef Leslie Bilderback and learn about the history of butter-making from Elaine Khosrova. Plus: Jonathan Gold braves the lines at Pizzana in Brentwood, while Laura Avery shops for spirulina at the farmers market.
Jonathan Gold dines at The Ponte In case you haven’t heard, Italian cuisine is back in the spotlight here in Los Angeles. This week, LA Times food writer Jonathan Gold sits down to one of the city’s most talked about plates of spaghetti at The Ponte.
What lies beneath the ocean waves Whether you summer by the sea or indulge in a plate of sushi or ceviche now and then, we are far more dependent upon what lies beneath the ocean waves than we think. So we devote this week’s show to the complex ecosystems that live in the briny deep, inhabited by cod, branzino, oysters, mussels, sea vegetables and much more.
Banning loncheras, a history of pho and food in 'Twin Peaks' Gustavo Arellano takes a stand against the Santa Ana City Council proposal to regulate street vendors. Lesley Balla reports on the cherry pie, coffee and donuts in “Twin Peaks.” Cara Tannenbaum and Andrea Tutunjian talk up their favorite nuts and seeds. Bob Holmes discusses how taste and smell affect flavor. Plus: A beef pho recipe and what to eat at Mas’ Chinese Islamic Restaurant.
Potlikker and pork as metaphor, the story of 'LA Mexicano' Bill Esparza reveals the inspiration behind “LA Mexicano,” and Simran Sethi sends us a report and Korean makjeok recipe from Camp Bacon. John T. Edge explores race, identity and class through the lens of Southern food in “The Potlikker Papers,” and Jonathan Gold waxes poetic about Hainan chicken rice at Side Chick. Plus: The significance of the US win at the Bocuse d’Or, and Laura Avery shops for Genovese basil at the market.
The Sandwich Show Charles Dedlow, of Roan Mills, talks bread-making with heritage grains. Tatler Editor John Haney explains how the British "sarnie" came to be, and No. 7 Chef Tyler Kord shares a spirited patty melt recipe. Plus: a pastrami sandwich crawl through Boyle Heights with Lara Rabinovitch, and Jonathan Gold stops in for a bite at the Everson Royce Bar. We first ran this show in October but believed it beared repeating.
Shaking up the USDA, 'The Beef Cookbook' and 'Tartine All Day' Peggy Lowe explains why Trump’s pick for USDA Secretary is rattling rural America. Dario Cecchini talks future plans for Chianti ramen, and Richard Turner shares cuts from “PRIME: The Beef Cookbook.” Writer Matthew Sedacca looks at the controversy behind liquid smoke. Jonathan Gold tries Chengdu-style dishes, and Elisabeth Prueitt of Tartine fills us in on the latest. Plus, chef Michael Beckman shares a recipe for cactus confit.
'Dandelion and Quince,' food and crime, 'All About Eggs' Sarah Lohman talks about the murder and historic recipes that form the backbone of her new book, “Ohio 1910,” and Rachel Khong shares highlights from Lucky Peach’s last cookbook, “All About Eggs.” Michelle Mckenzie tells us how to cook oft-forgotten fruits, veggies and herbs, and Jonathan Gold reviews AR Cucina in Culver City. Plus: raspberries at the market and a special guest DJ set from Alton Brown.
Industry insights and lessons learned from memorable guests We have interesting guests on The Business, and sometimes our conversations are too long to fit into one show. This week we give you stories that were too good to leave on the cutting room floor, including some sharp insights on making it in the industry from David Mandel, David Simon, Shawn Levy and Matt Reeves.
In 'Speechless,' Scott Silveri combines comedy, family & disability Scott Silveri has written and produced sitcoms for more than 20 years. In all that time, he never encountered a TV family that looked anything like the one he grew up in -- with a mom, a dad...and a brother with cerebral palsy. He changed that with his show Speechless on ABC. Silveri tells us about looking to his own past for stories, and why he was determined to make a family comedy and not just a "disability show."
Revisiting showrunner Steven Bochco on his memoir Steven Bochco, the writer-producer behind record-breaking Emmy winners Hill Street Blues, LA Law and NYPD Blue, fought battles with everyone from out-of-control actors to network censors in his long career. He isn’t afraid to tell those tales in his memoir, Truth Is a Total Defense. This week we revisit the conversation where he shared some of his favorite stories with us.