Pilgrimage for Art and Food in the Midi-Pyrenees

Hosted by

If you have never heard of the city of Albi in the south of France, don't feel bad. When I was invited there on a press trip by the French tourism agency Atout France I had no idea either. "But Edward, it is a beautiful city in the Midi-Pyrénées," I was told, which sounded to me like the middle of nowhere. The next thing I hear is that one of my favorite artists, Toulouse-Lautrec, was born in Albi and his museum there has the largest collection of his art in the world, close to 1000 pieces. That clinched the deal.


The city of Albi, photo by Edward Goldman


So there are five of us, American journalists, meeting in the city of Toulouse. The next morning we start our journey through a dozen of the ancient towns and villages that make up part of the famous Catholic pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain. But the agenda of our press trip is a pilgrimage of a different kind: art, history and gastronomy.


Interior of Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, photo by Edward Goldman


The beautiful medieval city of Albi with its ancient bridges over the river Tarn delivered more than I had hoped for. Its gothic Sainte-Cécile Cathedral has an intimidating, fortress like appearance, but inside it is a totally different story. The opulent interiors, with their sumptuous mosaic and fresco decorations, made a huge impression on me. I could have spent the whole day there, but damn, we had only half an hour before being whisked away for the rendezvous with Toulouse-Lautrec.


(L) Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec In the Salon of the Rue des Moulins, 1894      
(R) Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec Moulin Rouge. La Goulue et Valentin le Desosse, 1891
Both from Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

His museum recently reopened after a lengthy remodeling and its newly refurbished elegant galleries made me forget that I was in the "middle of nowhere." I was stunned to see how many major works by the artist belong to this museum. After Toulouse-Lautrec's death his family wanted to donate this vast collection to a major museum in Paris, but the answer was a polite "Merci beaucoup, but NO." And that's how this museum in Albi was born. If you ever find yourself in this charming city, I suggest that you stay there for at least two days to give yourself a chance to enjoy it.


The town of Conques, photo by Edward Goldman


The tiny town of Conques with a population of a few hundred people sits high in the mountains and looks exactly like the setting of your favorite childhood fairytale. Every stone in this city is ready to tell you a story.


Interior of Saint Foy Abbey-Church in Conques, photo by Edward Goldman


But the best thing happened when the city's mayor took us on a midnight tour of its 11th century Saint Foy Abbey-Church. Even for me, being an atheist, the experience was overwhelming. The spiritual minimalism of its architecture evoked for me the essence of such modern and contemporary artists as Kazimir Malevich and Ellsworth Kelly.


Chateau de Mercuès, photo by Edward Goldman


One day and a few ancient cities later we are at the Chateau de Mercuès, the epitome of a fairytale castle. A former Episcopal palace, this beautiful building is now a hotel and well-known winery. In the middle of the night I got out of bed and walked outside to see the castle at night, pinching myself to be sure that I was not dreaming.


Armagnac wine storehouse in the city of Condom, photo by Edward Goldman


Another day, another city. But this time it is the city of Condom, I kid you not. We are staying in a rather unappealing hotel, and in the city center I encounter the most unappealing artwork of the whole trip -- the bronze sculpture of the Three Musketeers, given to the city by a second-rate Russian sculptor. At the rescue comes the invitation to go to taste Armagnac at a private museum and wine storehouse. I am not a big drinker and ten o'clock in the morning is definitely not my idea of the best time to down my liquor. But here I am, sniffing and sipping a variety of Armagnacs with unexpected enthusiasm, ready to pay for it with a huge headache. And you know what, the rest of the day I travelled with the biggest smile on my face.

Our trip ended where it started, in the city of Toulouse. We had a walking tour through the historic center of this bustling university city of 600,000, and finished with a mouthwatering goodbye dinner, where I indulged myself with plenty of foie gras, fully knowing that upon my return home to Los Angeles this delicacy would be outlawed in California.

To see images discussed in Art Talk, go to KCRW.com/ArtTalk.

Banner Image: Summer solstice in Toulouse, photo by Edward Goldman