Market Report: Chef Deau Arpapornnopparat finds his cilantro roots

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Chao Her of Fresno Evergreen explains he harvests cilantro with the root. Photo by Gillian Ferguson/KCRW

Holy Basil started as a Thai takeout window in Downtown LA. In February 2024, chef Deau Arpapornnopparat opened a brick-and-mortar space in Atwater Village. The herbaceous flavor in the root is more concentrated than the leaves and offers a different texture so Arpapornnopparat asks farmers to leave the entire plant intact. Using a traditional mortar and pestle, he pounds the root with garlic and pepper for use in curry pastes and sauces. The restaurant's Holy Sauce, made with green and red Thai chilies, garlic, cilantro, roasted tomatillo, palm sugar, and lime, is served with crispy pork belly and seafood. 

Chao Her of Fresno Evergreen explains how he harvests cilantro with the root. In between seasons, he looks forward to basil and Persian cucumber.