In the shadow of the Pasadena Playhouse, Doug Rankin is making food that recalls bistro comfort cooking but adds elements that work in surprising ways. Rankin and his pastry chef, Raymond Morales, were on the line at Bar Restaurant in Silver Lake before opening Bar Chelou. In restaurant critic Bill Addison's review for the Los Angeles Times, he explains that in French, the word "chelou" can mean "weird," "strange," "unexpected," "shady," and "dodgy." "It's a declaration of roguish intent," Addison says.
He directs diners to Rankin's vegetable dishes, which aren't always plant-forward. Snap peas are blanketed with an anchovy cream, cured egg yolk and chistorra, the thin Basque sausage. Rainbow trout lays on pil pil, made with salt cod, garlic, and olive oil, rice pilaf and corn juice — a must-try from Addison.
The buzzing of the theater crowd fills the space but the bar is perfect for solo dining, Addison notes.
Chef Doug Rankin prepares bistro comfort food but adds unique elements that work. Photo by Dino Kuznik.
"This is a great example of how, if you think outside the box a little bit, people will show up," says Bill Addison, reviewing Bar Chelou. Photo by Dino Kuznik.