Bill Addison reviews the 4 chefs holding the reins at Horses

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Bill Addison recommends the cornish game hen at Horses in Hollywood. Photo by Mariah Tauger.

On a still and quiet block of Hollywood, a group of chefs have taken over an iconic pub they’ve dubbed Horses, a nostalgic nod to the establishment’s notoriety and history. Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Bill Addison describes the experience as “an only in LA blur of scenery — the famous, the near-famous, the famous lookalikes, and the rest of us.”

Addison admits it's difficult to label the menu as anything but “continental Californian,” a friendly mix of Spanish, Italian, and French cuisines with seasonality. What to order first? Try the Boudin Basque, a variation of morcilla (blood sausage), served over brioche and topped with a fried egg. Addison refers to it “as a dish for a new decade.” The spin on the Caesar salad substitutes romaine with endive and eschews croutons, opting for toasted breadcrumbs, and a grated mimolette. 




Evan Kleiman