In a little hut on Hillhurst in Los Feliz, Socorro Herrera defined Mexican food at Yuca's for nearly 50 years. "Mama" Socorro, as she was affectionately known, passed away in December after a brief illness. Her daughter Dora Herrera, operates the Pasadena location of Yuca's, and takes comfort in the legacy her mother leaves behind.
"My official title is president of the Yuca's Restaurant Group," says Dora, "but what I really am is a mini-me, sharing love and good food and creating good vibes, just like my mom taught me."
Socorro worked in the kitchen cooking food from her native Yucatan before retreating to the outside counter to take orders during her later years. Photo courtesy of Yuca's.
Socorro was the first-born child to a father who wanted nothing more than a son. And he raised her that way, taking her to bull fights in Mérida, Mexico, and stopping at bars on the way home. "That was her life, just living the life of a young boy in 1930s Mexico. And you know what? She loved it. And that really, really defined who she grew up to be," Dora says.
Socorro Herrera stands in front of Yuca's during the early days, in a hut that was formerly a shoeshine stand. Photo courtesy of Yuca's.
Jaime Herrera met Socorro through her sister. They were together for more than 50 years, starting a family and moving to Belize, then British Honduras, and finally settling in Los Angeles. Socorro and Jaime opened a small food stand in Los Feliz on April 1, 1976, taking ownership from a man who made falafel. Socorro slowly phased out the falafel so she could showcase food from the Yucatan. Dora recalls her older brother standing on the sidewalk waving in cars, offering customers double their money back if they weren't satisfied with their mother's cooking.
Dora says Mama's secret was using her hands. "It's kind of like that movie, Like Water for Chocolate, where you put yourself into the food and the people can taste it. That was her view of cooking."
Socorro Herrera with her daughters Margi (left) and Dora (right) at the James Beard Awards, where Yuca's was honored in the American Classics category. Photo courtesy of Yuca's.