Savoring the savory pancake: Bill Addison reviews HanEuem

On the corner of Western and 6th Street sits HanEuem. Former mortgage broker Wonsuk “John” Kang took up cooking four years ago, starting with a food truck featuring Polish dogs and nachos topped with a burger. With his latest venture, Kang has narrowed his focus on traditional Korean cuisine. In the tradition of modum jeon — a sizzling dish of large, savory pancakes and other pan-fried bites — LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison recommends the gochujeon, which are halved jalapenos with ground beef and tofu. He says this is a homier version than what David Chang serves at Majordomo.

In addition, try the pollock pancake and jeon — a crab, scallion, and mushroom pancake held together by a toothpick. The platter is typically served at large celebrations such as milestone birthdays. Kang admits the platters are painstaking to prepare. If they sell out, Addison recommends the hameul pajeon, the ubiquitous scallion pancakes, and the homestyle stews.