Jonathan Gold is the Pulitzer Prize winning food writer for the LA Times. This week he returns to the rekindled Empress Pavilion in Chinatown. When the restaurant first opened in the late 1980’s customers waited 2 hours for dim sum. Today the lines have moved to the San Gabriel Valley, but Jonathan says the dim sum at the newly renovated Empress Pavilion remains a solid (line-free) option.
What to order: Dim sum, fried chicken and stir-fried pea shoots.
Where is it? 988 N. Hill St., Los Angeles, (213) 617-9898