Mexican Lunch, French Tubers, Raw Milk, Storing Produce, Cooking for One

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Recipes and information from this week's edition of Good Food

Jonathan Gold spoke about El Abaje-o restaurant at 4515 Ingelwood Blvd in Culver City.
Recommended dishes:

Chile verde burrito
Chile relle-os

Dr. Ron Schmid is a naturopathic physician based in Connecticut and the author of The Untold Story of Milk. He mentioned two dairies in California that sell raw, organic milk:

Organic Pastures Dairy
Claravale Dairy

You can find more information about ExtraLife Produce Preserver at

Jean Francois Meteigner is the chef/owner of La Cachette at 10506 Santa Monica Boulevard Los Angeles; 310-470-4992.

The following recipes are from Joyce Goldstein's Solo Suppers: Simple Delicious Meals to Cook for Yourself, published by Chronicle Books.

Romesco Sauce
This is my house "ketchup." Ever since I first tasted romesco sauce in Barcelona, many years ago, I have been in love with its smoky, nutty richness. I would never want to be without it as it elevates every thing it touches.

A word about piment-n de La Vera. It is Spanish paprika, but the peppers have been dried over a hardwood fire so the paprika has a smoky undertone. It really makes the sauce sing. You can use a mixture of sweet and hot Hungarian paprikas, but the finished romesco sauce will lack that smoky nuance. It also complements broiled or saut-ed shrimp, saut-ed scallops, or fried or broiled fish, and can be smeared liberally over broiled or pan-seared lamb chops.

Makes about 2 cups

  • 2 medium-size Ancho chiles or 1 rounded tsp Ancho chile powder
  • 1 cup almonds or hazelnuts (or a combination), toasted
  • 4 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 large red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 1 cup peeled, seeded and diced tomato, fresh or canned, or 2 Tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 Tablespoon sweet piment-n or sweet paprika
  • 1/2 tsp hot piment-n or Cayenne pepper, or more to taste
  • 3 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish
If using whole Anchos, soak the chiles in hot water to cover for about 1 hour. Drain, discard the stems and seeds, and cut chiles into small pieces. If some peel remains, it's okay. Transfer the chile pieces, or Ancho chile powder, if using, to a food processor along with the nuts, garlic, roasted pepper, tomatoes, piment-n, vinegar and salt. Pulse a few times to make a chunky paste. Now start adding the oil a bit at a time until the mixture emulsifies. Taste. Let the sauce rest for about 15 minutes for the flavors to come together. Taste again, and decide if you want it spicier, saltier, or more vinegary. Adjust accordingly. The sauce keeps, tightly capped, in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. If the oil has risen to the top, re-emulsify it in the food processor or remix it back to a smooth consistency with a small whisk.

Romesco Mayonnaise: In a small bowl, whisk together about 1/4 cup mayonnaise and 1/2 cup romesco. Adjust the seasoning, as you may want more salt or a bit more acidity. Add the mayonnaise to a fish soup as you might add a dollop of rouille or aioli, or serve it as a dip for fried potatoes, grilled or steamed asparagus, green beans, cooked beets, artichokes or hard-boiled eggs. It also can be used as a spread for sandwiches, or tossed with cooked chicken or shrimp for a salad. The mayonnaise keeps for about 3 weeks in the refrigerator.

Romesco Vinaigrette: Thin 1/2 cup romesco with 1/4 cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons red wine or sherry vinegar. Serve over salad greens and chunks of tuna or shellfish, hard boiled eggs, green beans and potatoes. The vinaigrette will keep for a week.

Poached Salmon with Tarragon, Mushrooms and Cream
Because salmon is so easy to cook at home, I almost never order it in restaurants. When I want an elegant salmon supper, however, this is the recipe I return to over and over again. It combines three of my favorite ingredients, fresh tarragon, saut-ed mushrooms, and salmon. If I don't have an open bottle of white wine on hand, I use dry white vermouth which is shelf-stable.

  • 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/4 lb fresh mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 cups dry white wine, dry white vermouth, or part wine and part water
  • One 6-oz salmon fillet, skinned
  • 1/3 cup heavy cream
  • 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, plus more for garnish
In a small skillet, melt the butter over high heat. Add the mushrooms and saut- until they give off some liquid, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

Pour the wine into a saucepan large enough to hold the salmon and bring to a simmer. Slip in the salmon, cover the pan, and poach gently over low heat or until salmon tests done when checked at knife point, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the salmon from poaching liquid with a slotted skimmer and set aside on a warmed plate; keep warm.

Add the cream and 1 tablespoon tarragon to the poaching liquid and reduce over high heat to a slightly syrupy sauce. Add the mushrooms and warm through. Spoon the sauce over the salmon. Garnish with a bit more tarragon.