What's the deal with liquid smoke?

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In the 1970s, making smoked salmon mousse was a snap. A touch of cream, a little salmon, plus a few drops of liquid smoke. But in much of the barbecue community, the smoky liquid fix is considered sacrilege. Bottles of the flavoring agent have been on the market since 1898, but this quick fix is the antithesis to the “low and slow” ethos preached by barbecue purists. Food writer Matthew Sedacca delves into the history and controversy associated with liquid smoke for Eater.