FROM THIS EPISODE
We kick off this week’s watery show with the tale of The Codfather. Reporter Ben Goldfarb covered the rise and fall of Carlos Rafael for the Food & Environment Reporting Network (FERN) and Mother Jones magazine. His piece is a fascinating look at how a Portuguese fisherman amassed a flotilla of 40 boats, while managing to skirt commercial fishing regulations for years. Learn how his arrest upended New England’s fishing industry.
“Trust the Gorton’s fisherman,” or so the slogan goes. But truth be told, if you were to eat a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich in Alaska, the fish inside the breading will have crossed the continental United States twice on its journey to Gloucester, Massachusetts, to be sliced and batter-coated in breadcrumbs before returning west to the Golden Arches. Journalist Lee van der Voo takes a deep dive into the commercial fishing industry in her new book, “The Fish Market.” In it, she exposes the monopolies, privatization and exclusionary practices that are just as rampant on the seas as they are in America’s agricultural industry.
Lee van der Voo
This week at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, Ricardo Zarate, the chef-owner of Rosaliné in West Hollywood, is shopping for ají amarillo, huacatay and Japanese Momotaro tomatoes. He uses them in a branzino dish called pescado parrillero, which he learned to cook from an ex-girlfriend’s mom. Then, farmer Cuco Arambula explains to Laura Avery how he grows Momotaro tomatoes at Beylik Family Farms in Fillmore, California.
When it comes to oysters, Rowan Jacobsen does not mince words: “A good oyster smells like the sea breeze skipping over the shore. A bad oyster smells like a murder victim.” That pearl of wisdom is one of many you’ll find in Jacobsen’s impressive new compendium about the bivalve: “The Essential Oyster: A Salty Appreciation of Taste and Temptation.” In it, he also shares a roadmap to the best oysters in the United States.
Bren Smith is the executive director of GreenWave. The longtime commercial fisherman recently discovered restorative 3-D ocean farming of shellfish and seaweed. We reached out to him at Thimble Island Ocean Farm in Connecticut to learn how his underwater farming model is reviving ecosystems, reversing the effects of climate change and creating new jobs.
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Eddie Huang, Pixar's 'Bao,' and eating like Walt Disney Food personality Eddie Huang announces a new show at the intersection of immigration and food culture. Likewise, Pixar’s latest short depicts the power of food in an immigrant home. A new book details how to eat like Walt Disney. Instead of produce, we’re talking heritage pork at the farmers market. Plus: rethinking tapas, and DineLA hits ten years.
LA's burger scene, the Berkeley Bowl, and 'New Rules' of wine What elevates a dish or market to cult status? Eggslut’s Alvin Cailan is eating through LA’s burger scene to figure out the city’s obsession with the sandwich (and who makes the essential LA burger). In Oakland, loyal customers have sworn by the fresh produce at Berkeley Bowl since 1977. Alon Shaya’s new book breaks down Israeli flavors that influenced him as a chef. And Jon Bonne wants to uncomplicate drinking wine.
'Repertoire,' Nancy Singleton Hachisu, and shishito peppers Cooking at home doesn’t mean you need a million cookbooks, according to San Francisco Chronicle columnist Jessica Battilana. Nancy Singleton Hachisu is an authority on making Japanese food at home and her new book is her most ambitious yet. Jonathan Gold heads to the westside for Travis Lett’s take on Japanese cuisine. Martha Mendoza investigates fraudulent seafood labels. Plus: shishito peppers at the market.
Remembering Anthony Bourdain The death of Anthony Bourdain is a loss felt around the world. His nomadic spirit redefined how many of us ate and traveled. We dug through the Good Food archives for Evan’s past interviews with Bourdain about everything from “Kitchen Confidential” to No Reservations. Plus, a visit to a remarkable memorial in New York. Also, we learn more about Tony’s love of punk rock from his 2010 appearance on KCRW’s Guest DJ Project.
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