FROM THIS EPISODE
We kick off this week’s watery show with the tale of The Codfather. Reporter Ben Goldfarb covered the rise and fall of Carlos Rafael for the Food & Environment Reporting Network (FERN) and Mother Jones magazine. His piece is a fascinating look at how a Portuguese fisherman amassed a flotilla of 40 boats, while managing to skirt commercial fishing regulations for years. Learn how his arrest upended New England’s fishing industry.
“Trust the Gorton’s fisherman,” or so the slogan goes. But truth be told, if you were to eat a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich in Alaska, the fish inside the breading will have crossed the continental United States twice on its journey to Gloucester, Massachusetts, to be sliced and batter-coated in breadcrumbs before returning west to the Golden Arches. Journalist Lee van der Voo takes a deep dive into the commercial fishing industry in her new book, “The Fish Market.” In it, she exposes the monopolies, privatization and exclusionary practices that are just as rampant on the seas as they are in America’s agricultural industry.
Lee van der Voo
This week at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, Ricardo Zarate, the chef-owner of Rosaliné in West Hollywood, is shopping for ají amarillo, huacatay and Japanese Momotaro tomatoes. He uses them in a branzino dish called pescado parrillero, which he learned to cook from an ex-girlfriend’s mom. Then, farmer Cuco Arambula explains to Laura Avery how he grows Momotaro tomatoes at Beylik Family Farms in Fillmore, California.
When it comes to oysters, Rowan Jacobsen does not mince words: “A good oyster smells like the sea breeze skipping over the shore. A bad oyster smells like a murder victim.” That pearl of wisdom is one of many you’ll find in Jacobsen’s impressive new compendium about the bivalve: “The Essential Oyster: A Salty Appreciation of Taste and Temptation.” In it, he also shares a roadmap to the best oysters in the United States.
Bren Smith is the executive director of GreenWave. The longtime commercial fisherman recently discovered restorative 3-D ocean farming of shellfish and seaweed. We reached out to him at Thimble Island Ocean Farm in Connecticut to learn how his underwater farming model is reviving ecosystems, reversing the effects of climate change and creating new jobs.
More From Good Food
The Farm Show We revisit our conversation on the state of America’s farmlands and the people that control our nation’s agriculture. As policy, the climate, and the country’s needs change, we examine some of the greatest challenges facing the farming community: new legislation, modern farm life, escalating suicide rates amongst farmers, and more.
The Water Show Water may be the essence of life but it’s subject to near-constant misuse. Journalist Mark Arax profiles a couple running a water monopoly in the Central Valley. A once abundant Cambodian lake is in decline, leaving fisherman and half the population scrambling for fish. We’ve heard of using less water but what about eating less water? And Mark Gold (Jonathan’s brother) shares tips on water conservation in LA.
Chicago's South Side barbecue, a Koreatown guide, and food in cinema The South Side of Chicago has a rich barbecue heritage, but only half the city seems to know. Chef Nyesha Arrington’s restaurant Native pays homage to the city that made her. Jonathan Gold shares his favorite restaurants in Koreatown. A touching biography of cookbook author Paula Wolfert wins a best cookbook award. And it turns out, many of this year’s Oscar-nominated films are actually all about food.
Brian Boitano, José Andrés' philanthropy, Pete Wells on harassment Brian Boitano shares the struggle that many figure skaters have with food. Kim Severson talks about Chef José Andrés’ humanitarian work in Puerto Rico. Pete Wells asks why restaurateurs and chefs are issuing tepid responses to sexual harassment scandals. Meanwhile, Jonathan Gold ventures a review of The Hearth & Hound in Hollywood. And we’re checking out a different market this week: Smorgasburg LA.
LATEST BLOG POSTS
James Beard Award’s 2018 nominations are here! Hear them again. Over the last year, we’ve had hundreds of guests stop by KCRW to chat about recipes, food politics and beyond. We were happy to see some of their names among the 2018 James Beard Award nominees! Revisit the conversations we had with these leaders in food writing, reporting, making, and eating. Read More
Like water for quiche: a low-water recipe An ordinary egg takes roughly 23 gallons of water to produce. Author Florencia Ramirez wants cooks to know there are options for buying eggs which solely use rainwater, also known as ‘green water.’ Read More