Good Food on the Road

Jonathan Gold dines at Playa Amor in Long Beach and Amor y Tacos in Cerritos

Jonathan Gold thinks chef Thomas Ortega’s Playa Amor in Long Beach and Amor y Tacos in Cerritos represent two distinct sides of his personality.

By Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) • Jan 20, 2018 • 3m Listen

are both nostalgic and entirely new. (Photo by Carl Larsen)

Chef Thomas Ortega calls his culinary style Pocho Cuisine, meaning that he left Mexico and his food has taken on an effortless fusion of American and Mexican influences. Dishes like Amor y Tacos’ Doritos chilaquiles exemplify this perfectly. LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold says Playa Amor in Long Beach and Amor y Tacos in Cerritos represent the two sides of Ortega’s mind. One sits along the Long Beach harbor and attracts an Instagram-seeking “brunch crowd.” The other makes Gold want to sit for hours and have one or two more mezcals than he should. The choice is yours.

Playa Amor: 6527 Pacific Coast Hwy, Long Beach, CA 90803 | (562) 430-2667

Amor y Tacos: 13333 South St, Cerritos, CA 90703 | (562) 860-2667