Good Food on the Road
Jonathan Gold visits the freshly reopened Noma in Copenhagen
Noma was once lauded as the best restaurant in the world. Jonathan Gold says after its recent reopening, the magic is still alive.
By Jonathan Gold (1960-2018) • • 3m ListenChef René Redzepiappears to be a maniac for reinvention, starting with how the world sees and eats Nordic food. With a brand new space and menu that spotlights seafood customary to Denmark, Redzepi is interested in expanding the Scandinavian culinary conversation. Although this fine dining establishment has been called one of the most influential restaurants in the world, Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold says it’s Redzepi’s “restless soul” that pushes the menu’s evolution. Gold also says Noma could have easily stayed “that restaurant that serves pickled rose petals to rich tourists.” But thankfully, Redzepi refuses to stagnate.
Noma:Refshalevej 96, 1432 København K, Denmark
The Oyster and the Ocean at Noma in Copenhagen. Photo by Sarah Aukerman.
