Chronicle of Curry

The cuisine we believe to be quintessentially Indian is actually a fusion of many foreign contributions. In her new book, Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors, Lizzie Collingham traces that fusion, going back as far as 15^th century Persian Moghuls, 17^th century Portuguese explorers and the lengthy occupation by the British. She discusses curry's full spectrum -- from its lofty symbolism representing India's history of invasion and colonization, to specific delicacies like roast black rat from the kitchens of King Somesvara III.

Vindaloo

Serves 3-4

Paste

2 large dried red chillies

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

4-6 whole cloves

10 black peppercorns

½ teaspoon turmeric

2 fresh red chillies, finely chopped (or pureed in a blender with a little water)

1 tablespoon palm or wine vinegar

1 tablespoon tamarind paste

6 large cloves of garlic, mashed

¾ in. piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated

Sauce

4-6 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

¾ in. cinnamon stick

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 ¼ cups water

salt to taste

pinch of jaggery (palm sugar) or soft brown sugar

a few curry leaves, crumbled

Curry: A Tale of Cooks & Conquerors by Lizzie Collingham

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