Eat, Memory

New Times food writer Amanda Hesser talks about memory and food associated with important moments in her book, Eat, Memory: Great Writers at the Table: A Collection of Essays from the New York Times. She also talks about chef Julia Child and the recipe that caused her to fail her Cordon Bleu final examinations.

Oeuf Mollets, Sauce Béarnaise

Soft-Cooked Eggs, Béarnaise Sauce

Serves 6

For the Béarnaise sauce

4 peppercorns, crushed

1 large shallot, chopped

3 Tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar

¼ cup white wine

2 egg yolks

2 Tablespoons water

8 ozs unsalted butter, melted

1 Tablespoon chopped fresh chervil

Cayenne pepper

oeufs mollets: Cook very fresh eggs in boiling, salted water for 5 to 6 minutes, according to the size. Transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking. Peel the cooled eggs under warm running water and set aside in a bowl of hot, not boiling, salted water until ready to serve. “Mollet eggs” can be kept warm for some time without the yolks hardening.