Braiding dough into the imperfect babka

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Shimi Aaron likens the cars, weather and beaches of Los Angeles to Tel Aviv. As a recent transplant to the city, his twists on babka have taken the city by storm, leading LA Times Restaurant Critic Bill Addison to dub him the future babka king. Aaron bakes his babka on sheet trays, embracing its imperfections and allowing it to go everywhere.



Evan Kleiman