Jonathan Gold visits the reopened Noma

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The Oyster and the Ocean at Noma in Copenhagen. Photo by Sarah Aukerman.

During Jonathan Gold’s recent trip to Europe, he made a stop in Copenhagen for dinner. Noma was widely considered one of the most influential restaurants in the world and Gold’s meal at the newly reopened restaurant was nothing short of dreamlike. Chef and owner René Redzepi combines the dominant elements in world cooking— localism, seasonality, sustainability and science—to create a revelatory dining experience (for those who can win their table lottery).