Why were some of LA’s oldest Mexican restaurants called Spanish?

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Los Angeles is a city of great Mexican food, but that doesn’t mean restaurant owners have always been able to call their cuisine by its proper name. Eater LA senior editor Farley Elliott recently learned about the origins of some of LA’s oldest Mexican restaurants, and discovered a troubling history.

El Cholo back in the day. Photo courtesy of El Cholo

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Evan Kleiman