I’m a pasta snob. I admit it and I don’t apologize for it. I believe that great dry pasta made with semolina flour is an Italian cultural artifact that’s been given to the world. Until last week, all of my favorite dry pastas were imported from Italy, but now a locally made durum wheat pasta has made it into my rotation. The maker is Leah Ferrazzani of SemolinaLA.
This recipe from my book Pasta Fresca makes great use of her rigatoni. It’s a simple farm-style sauce, combining pancetta, beans, and pasta, that is quick to make yet satisfies as much as any ragù. You can find Semolina LA products at the following stores and delivery outposts in Los Angeles:
Milkfarm Artisan Cheese Shop, Eagle Rock
Arroyo General, Highland Park
Grist & Toll, Pasadena
Lincoln, Pasadena
Poppy Cake Baking Co., Sierra Madre
Monsieur Marcel, Hollywood
Los Angeles County Store, Los Angeles
GoodEggs.com
Beachgreens.com, Long Beach
GaribaldiGoods.com
FarmBox LA
Out of the Box Collective
Rigatoni with Pancetta and Borlotti Beans
SERVES 4 TO 6
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ onion, peeled and finely diced
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely diced
5 slices pancetta, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 28-ounce can imported Italian tomatoes
1 can borlotti or pinto beans, drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pound imported gnocchetti rigati
Freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese
Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften. Add the pancetta and cook over medium-high heat until it gives off its fat. Add the garlic and cook until it gives off its characteristic aroma. Put the tomatoes and all their juice through the coarse disk of a food mill directly into the skillet. Cook over high heat until the tomatoes begin to thicken. Add the beans and continue cooking until sauce thickens, being careful while stirring to keep the beans whole. Add salt and pepper. Cook the pasta in abundant boiling salted water until al dente. Quickly drain and place in a shallow serving bowl. Add tomato-bean mixture and toss carefully. Pass Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese.