Hans Röckenwagner of the fleet of Röckenwagner bakeries in Southern California has a new cookbook, Das Cookbook, that features recipes with his unique fusion of German and California cuisine.
This recipe for “hunter’s schnitzel” is one of his favorites.
Makes 4 servings
4 (1-inch-thick) bone-in pork chops (5 to 6 ounces each), pounded for schnitzel about ½-inch thick
Coarse sea or kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
8 paper-thin slices Black Forest ham or speck
⅓ cup flour
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 shallots, finely diced
4 medium cloves garlic, sliced in half
1 bunch spring onions, trimmed, or ½ cup pearl onions, peeled
2 cups mixed mushrooms, such as chanterelle, oyster, and/or shiitake
¼ cup dry white wine
½ cup Brown Veal Stock (below), warmed
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, chilled
Generous splash heavy cream
¼ cup chopped parsley
1. Season the chops lightly on both sides with salt and pepper. Wrap 2 slices ham around the middle of each chop like a package, covering most of the meat. Lightly press together edges to seal and dip each chop in flour to coat both sides, shaking to remove excess.
2. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. Add 2 chops and sauté until golden brown on one side, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and cook another 2 to 3 minutes to brown opposite side. Transfer to a plate and repeat with remaining tablespoon of olive oil and remaining chops
3. Add shallots and garlic to same pan and sauté over medium heat until just beginning to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add spring or pearl onions and mushrooms and cook until mushrooms begin to soften, 4 to 5 minutes. Deglaze with wine, scraping up any brown bits on bottom of pan, and cook until wine almost evaporates, about 2 minutes. Add veal or chicken stock, bring to a simmer, and return pork chops and drippings to pan. Continue to cook over medium heat until chops are only slightly pink in center, flipping once, about 3 to 5 minutes, depending on thickness. Place chops on serving plates and use a slotted spoon to transfer vegetables on top (a few smaller vegetables can remain in pan)
4. Heat remaining jus to a simmer and whisk in butter followed by a splash of cream. Season sauce with salt and pepper and sprinkle parsley on top. Spoon sauce over chops and serve immediately.
About 8 pounds cracked veal bones
2 large onions, peeled and roughly chopped into 1-inch pieces
2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into 1-inch pieces
1/2 medium celery root, peeled and roughly chopped, or 2 medium stalks celery, sliced into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 sprigs thyme
2 sprigs parsley
2 dried bay leaves
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon kosher salt, or to taste (omit if making glace de viande)
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place veal bones in a large roasting pan and roast until bones are well browned, about 1.5 hours. Remove from oven, add onions, carrots, celery root or celery, and tomato paste. Use tongs to carefully spread vegetables around roasting pan (pan will be very hot) and loosen any bones that have caramelized and may be attached to bottom of pan. Return pan to oven and roast until vegetables are golden brown, about 1 hour, stirring once or twice.
2. Place roasting pan on the stove and transfer bones to an 8- to 10-quart stockpot or tall pasta pot. Add 1/2 cup water to vegetables and pan juices in roasting pan to deglaze, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom with a spatula. Add pan juice to the stockpot along with garlic, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, peppercorns, and enough water to cover bones (about 6 to 7 quarts). Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 2.5 to 3 hours. Stock should be a rich golden brown color. If using only as stock, add salt to taste and allow to cool completely. If making glace de viande, omit salt.
3. Once stock has cooled completely, strain into a large bowl, pressing down on vegetables to release juices. Season with additional salt to taste and refrigerate stock until fat slightly congeals, 2 to 3 hours. Skim off fat with a slotted spoon and discard. Use stock within 3 to 4 days, or freeze in small batches in food storage bags.