Spinning for Flour and the Best Whole Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies Ever

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Kim Boyce‘s lovely Bakeshop in Portland and decide to bake her Whole Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies.  I can feel you rolling your eyes.  You don’t understand, I’m often not a cookie fan.  They can be too sweet.  But the deep flavor wheat germ lends to the cookie changes everything.  The first time I made this recipe from Kim’s James Beard award winning book Good to the Grain I wanted to sing an aria to her genius.  Really it was the first chocolate chip cookie I couldn’t stop eating.  Using whole wheat flour tempers the sweetness of the sugar and chocolate which for me is a good thing.

But this time around I was determined to do justice to the very special flour I was using.  This was whole wheat flour  “milled” by producer Gillian (a veteran of many spinning classes) and me (a veteran of the two wheeler) laboring on a exercycle hacked to turn a grain mill.  It was a blast, cycling away under a marquee tent on the grounds of an apple orchard at the Washington State University Mt. Vernon Research Center and the result was silky, super fine whole meal flour. Watch us spinning for flour below and keep scrolling for my interview with founder of the grain mill Jack Jenkins.

Fine WW Flour
We peddled for this flour. (The original image is no longer available, please contact KCRW if you need access to the original image.)

I made a few tiny changes to Kim’s recipe.  First of all I measured “lightly”.  Instead of using the scoop and swoop method I stirred the flour then spooned it into the measuring cup before swooping.  Then I used three sugars instead of two,  a little white sugar because I’m didn’t want to veer too far from this most excellent recipe.  But mostly I used a deeply flavored, super dark Muscovado sugar along with with some granular Turbinado. The grains of the Turbinado don’t completely melt and there’s a hint of sandiness as you bit down on the soft cookie.  I threw in a handful of walnuts I had in the pantry. To keep cookies soft I just under bake a little bit. With this recipe under baking results in a pretty sexy cookie. There is a deep, almost savory flavor from the whole wheat and the Muscovado, the sandiness adds textural interest and the pools of chocolate from chopping a bar up yourself rather than using a “chip” are, well pools of chocolate.

Follow Kim’s recipe below. You won’t be disappointed.