Good Food
Hanukkah, Filipino desserts, collards, chaat
What happens to a place when restaurants disappear? There’s something deeper than just the exchange of the food that’s lacking. Small interactions in so-called third spaces that add up to give eaters a sense of identity within their own city.
By Evan Kleiman • • 56m ListenWhat happens to a place when restaurants disappear? There’s something deeper than just the exchange of the food that’s lacking. Small interactions in so-called third spaces that add up to give eaters a sense of identity within their own city. The spaces, rooms, great effort and expense that go into the counters, tables, curtains, wallpaper, plateware — it’s all the great and fragile theater of dining. Restaurants provide an incalculable amount of culture, texture and humanity.
In this week’s edition of “In the Weeds,” Daniel Navarro shares the story of his family’s restaurant, El Cochinito, in Silver Lake. Next, Leah Koenig explores different ways to celebrate Hanukkah through a global lens. Pastry chefs Sally Camacho Mueller and Charles Olalia describe Christmas in the Philippines and seasonal sweets. Chris Smith celebrates collards and their significance in Southern cuisines. Chef and television host Maneet Chauhan introduces snacks found along Indian railways.
In this episode
6 stories‘In the Weeds’ with Silver Lake Cuban staple El Cochinito
Chef and owner Daniel Navarro’s grandmother, Gladys, opened El Cochinito in 1988 in a small strip mall along Sunset Boulevard in Silver Lake.
Read the story10 minJelly donuts, kibbeh and latkes: Hanukkah traditions
Hanukkah, the celebration of the miracle of light, is actually a minor holiday in the Jewish calendar. But it’s a focal point this time of year because it’s close to Christmas and involves eating lots of fried foods with abandon.
Read the story9 minWant to celebrate Christmas for 4 months? Move to the Philippines
The holidays bring as many traditions as there are families worldwide. Even within cultures, each family might make a treat differently from their neighbors. But one constant is to celebrate with sweets.
Read the story10 minCelebrating collards and heirloom varieties
Collard greens symbolize money in a traditional New Year’s dish , paired with black-eyed peas and cornbread. The green has special significance to Southern cuisine, so why not give them their own week of celebrations?
Read the story9 minCherimoya: Dinosaur egg on the outside, creamy flesh on the inside
Market correspondent Gillian Ferguson catches up with Mercedes Saucedo at the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market. Saucedo is shopping for kiwi, yuzu, and cherimoya for her seasonal ice creams at Casa Coco .
Read the story8 minTaking the train to the next Indian snack
Train travel is commonplace in India, where local vendors sell regional snacks at depots. Chaat is the Hindi word meaning “to lick.” It describes anything so good that you find yourself licking the banana or palm leaf it was served on.
Read the story12 min
